To be honest, just about any combo of the product you listed will work because from my experience they all use good abrasive technology. Just do your normal test spot procedure and you'll be able to dial in a process that will work just fine.
I don't think any of us can ever use the word "thick" when talking about any factory sprayed clear coats.
Car manufactures are supposed to spray at least 2 mils of clear over the basecoat because paint manufacturers "know" that is what is required to keep the entire matrix of paint from failing due to exposure to the sun and elements.
Assuming no Caveman has buffed the car out before you then I don't think you have anything to worry about as long as you use your normal good technique and use common sense.
As long as you mark your backing plate and monitor pad rotation you can pull swirls using the 3" Griot's polisher or as I like to call it, the Peanut Polisher.
I'll tend to over use my aggressive product with the Griot's 3" to make sure the surface is lubricated with enough product to maintain good pad rotation under pressure.
You know offering a good two-step might work for you and him, just explain that doing two steps won't remove all the deeper defects but it will really do a great job overall and then seal her up.
Use the Sonax PF with a polishing pad and then go to your LSP.
What are you going to use for an LSP?
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