How-To capture swirls, scratches, etchings and other surface defects with your camera

[Mike.Phillips@Autogeek]

How-To capture swirls, scratches, etchings and other surface defects with your camera

Due credit where credit is due
This article was originally written by me, (Mike Phillips), and posted to MeguiarsOnline on May 28th, 2006 and it can be found here,

How-To capture swirls, scratches, etchings and other surface defects with your camera

Sometimes I will try to re-write articles I have written on the Internet and sometimes it's really hard to re-write what I've already written, in these cases it's easier to share the original article and provide a link back to the originating site out of respect for the other site and the law, and for good reasons of good Netiquette. I don't like seeing my articles stolen or re-written by others and then seeing my worked presented as someone else's and wouldn't do that to anyone else.

-Mike Phillips

A few tips and techniques for helping your camera to focus on the surface so you can capture the defects in the paint you're hoping to remove.


Finger Pointing Focus Technique
Besides figuring out the right camera setting for your specific camera, another quick, simple way to help your camera focus on a defect you're trying to capture with a picture is to simply place your index finger close to the defect on or hovering over the finish then carefully captures a few pictures and in most cases you'll get a couple you can use on the Internet. This works for Swirls, Scratches, Etchings, Water Spots both Type I and Type II, Stains, Oxidation, etc. Basically anything on the surface. The reason you need to give the camera something to focus on is because often times when taking shots of a large, uniform, flat surface, once any focus points are zoomed out of the picture your camera has nothing to sense and focus on.

Detailing Clay
You can also use a little piece of detailing clay because in most cases you have some detailing clay around. If the paint is clean and it should when trying to capture pictures of surface defects, then when you're done taking your pictures you should be okay to put the little piece of clay back into the large piece you took it from or just through it away. A small piece will work fine. (See picture below).

Coin
A coin can also be used if the surface is flat and horizontal like the hood. Place the coin carefully onto the paint so as not to instill a scratch. If you already have a flawless, swirl-free finish then maybe stick with the finger or clay technique. If you're getting ready to buff the car out then as long as you're careful you'll be okay; remember you're going to be buffing out the paint and likely the defect you're trying to capture with a picture.


Cobweb Swirls or Cobweb-Effect



Cobweb Swirls or Cobweb-Effect



Cobweb Swirls or Cobweb-Effect




Detailing Clay
Another way to help your camera focus on a surface defect is to place something on the surface of the paint, for example in the below picture we placed a small piece of detailing clay on the paint, then let the camera auto focus and wa-la, perfectly captured swirls, scratches and a bird dropping etching in the paint.





Random, Isolated Deeper Scratch
Scratch Removed using Ultimate Compound





An Isolated Bird Dropping Etching
How To Remove a Bird Dropping Etching by Hand using M105 Ultra Cut Compound



Photos courtesy of MeguiarsOnline.com

[jayhkr]

Nice post up Mike! I never thought of using a piece of clay. My Nikon D5000 takes ultra sharp pictures, however I usually need to be arms length to get good pictures from it. That's kind of hard to hold one arm to the paint while the other arm is taking the picture. I always use the manual focus on my lens as that seems to help too!

[ZEE BEST]

I never knew that pointing a finger in the picture will help the camera focus!!! I thought it was 100% because they're just pointing out the defect. Thanks MIKE!!!

[dougaross]

A small piece of masking tape would perform the same function. It would be useful on vertical surfaces.

[Rob T]

Focusing can be a challenge on painted surfaces. The real key to bringing out the swirls in photos is the lighting. Lighting is always the key to photography.

[AndrewBall]

Originally Posted by Rob T

The real key to bringing out the swirls in photos is the lighting. Lighting is always the key to photography.

You Speak the truth my man.

lighting for taking pictures of detailed cars is extremely difficult. On this forum we are just trying to show details of the finish but to capture the entire car its a much different process.

I've had the opportunity to work with one of the automotive industries greats. Michael Furman Automotive photographer.

A lot goes into creating his images.

for example, he uses a 40 foot long soft box with over 12 lights in it. the angle of the light bank in relation to the vehicle on more then one axis greatly affects the final image.


Now for our uses, we dont want a large soft light source, if we are trying to show surface defects. For say, a Before Shot.

You need a small specular light source. This will have a similar affect as the sun does.

This is why the brinkman swirl finder light works so well.

The small specular light source hits the scratches and sends highlights through them as the light scatters. revealing them with great distinction.

The reason work lamps work so well is that are relatively small but they are square (making them specular) and the contrast ration from the light source to the edge is so high. So you see the scratches.

Trying to make your after shots look more dramatic? Use Contrasty locations. areas with bright like and dark shadows. this will make the reflections look deeper. Diffused light is the best but most of use aren't going to drive around and find a great spot that will be up to some photographer to do. but your uses remember these little tips it can make your images that much more impressive.

[Rob T]

Originally Posted by AndrewBall

You Speak the truth my man.

lighting for taking pictures of detailed cars is extremely difficult. On this forum we are just trying to show details of the finish but to capture the entire car its a much different process.

I've had the opportunity to work with one of the automotive industries greats. Michael Furman Automotive photographer.

A lot goes into creating his images.

for example, he uses a 40 foot long soft box with over 12 lights in it. the angle of the light bank in relation to the vehicle on more then one axis greatly affects the final image.


Now for our uses, we dont want a large soft light source, if we are trying to show surface defects. For say, a Before Shot.

You need a small specular light source. This will have a similar affect as the sun does.

This is why the brinkman swirl finder light works so well.

The small specular light source hits the scratches and sends highlights through them as the light scatters. revealing them with great distinction.

The reason work lamps work so well is that are relatively small but they are square (making them specular) and the contrast ration from the light source to the edge is so high. So you see the scratches.

Trying to make your after shots look more dramatic? Use Contrasty locations. areas with bright like and dark shadows. this will make the reflections look deeper. Diffused light is the best but most of use aren't going to drive around and find a great spot that will be up to some photographer to do. but your uses remember these little tips it can make your images that much more impressive.

Great stuff!

[jcarson112]

For those with a DSLR, it is far easier to capture the defects in paint by switching off the auto focus.

[Rob T]

Originally Posted by jcarson112

For those with a DSLR, it is far easier to capture the defects in paint by switching off the auto focus.

It isn't a question of being able to easily capture the defects by turning off the auto focus, but rather whether you can focus on the defect better with auto focus off.

Generally I would say yes, because a shiny paint surface is difficult for AF systems to focus on.

[Fly bye]

I sometimes use AF to achieve focus, then switch to MF so the focal length stays put.