painting

[280 zx Ed]

hi. i am ed and i am new to this forum and have a few questions. I have a 280zx which I am in the process of painting.
The paint job on the car was in good condition, however i needed a winter project so took this project on.
I have sanded part of car and began by using 800 grit sandpaper, then went to 1000 grit,then went to 2000 grit. my question is.....should I prime and sand the car or just go over the old paint job with the same paint color? the paint that i will be using is acrylic lacquer.
thanks
ed

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Ed,

Since this was your first post to our forum,


Welcome to AGO!


I've painted a few cars but am far from an experienced expert to give out advice except to say that if this car is important to you, as in you want to do a good job, then if it were me I would take it all the way down to metal and start with a "known" good foundation to build on.


I've owned a number of early Datsuns including a very nice 1974 260Z, (early version with lights under the front bumper), and early Datsuns are notorious for rust issues, especially in the lower panels and floors.


We have a number of guys that hang out on this forum that are experience painters and I'm sure now that it's Monday, they'll be back from the Super Bowl Weekend, checking out the new threads on this forum and you'll get some more helpful replies to your question.

Here's a few pics of the 260Z I owned just a few years ago...

[ken tuep]

I'll add to this after I drop the kids off at school.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

[ken tuep]

hi. i am ed and i am new to this forum and have a few questions. I have a 280zx which I am in the process of painting.
The paint job on the car was in good condition, however i needed a winter project so took this project on.
I have sanded part of car and began by using 800 grit sandpaper, then went to 1000 grit,then went to 2000 grit. my question is.....should I prime and sand the car or just go over the old paint job with the same paint color? the paint that i will be using is acrylic lacquer.
thanks
ed

OK, to start, the sandpaper you are using is too fine. Those grits are too fine to offer enough tooth for the paint to adhere to.

The 2000 grit is usually used for removing orange Peel in fresh paint, and melting clear at a blend.

The 1000 is usually used for blending the clearcoat on adjacent panels. Also for knocking down runs and heavy OP.

The 800 is the finest I'd ever sand with before painting, that's only on top of existing clearcoat/paint, like you have described.

I'd like to ask a few more questions before going any deeper.

Are you planning on painting the vehicle the same color?

Do you have any experience spraying?

Do you have a well ventilated area to spray, along with proper PPE?

Do you have to use the acrylic lacquer?

Was the paint flaking r, chipped, cracked, or have bad body work?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

[tuscarora dave]

Subscribed....I always want to learn about painting from the pros.

[280 zx Ed]

hi ken, thanks for replying. let me start by explaining why i used the combination of sandpapers. when i sanded with the 1000, i was trying to find out what grit i should use that my compound that i am usingwould take out the fine sandpaper marks. i am using meguiar's ultimate compound. i had to go to 2000 to get out all sandpaper marks out.

regarding your questions....the car is a 1980 280zx, 10th anniiversary series, this is the gold and black one. where this is a lmited edition, i must go with the same 2-tone colors.(gold and black).
My painting experience is limited.i and i have a tendency to apply the paint too heavy.
- I do have a well-ventilated area, and follow the PPE quidlines.
- Regarding the type paint....I bought acrylic lacquer because it was the closest to what was on the car.
- regarding the cars condition....there was no flaking, chipping, cracking or bad body work.
Note: Someone looking at the car, may feel that there really was no reason to paint it. Just wanted a winter project.
So, regarding my question, should I prime the whole car or can I go over the original paint job.I will be using clear coat over the complete car as a finish.
thanks ed.

[Hoytman]

I'm no expert, but I see no reason to stop at 2000 grit papers if you're already going to be doing some sanding. If you're doing the painting then you'll have a good idea of how much clear coat film you've laid down.

Here's some links to read over when you're done painting and ready to begin the finishing stages of your project...the final sanding and prep before moving to compounds/polishes.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-phillips.html


Here's an excerpt from the link above. You'll find as much information as you want with regard to sanding on your project when you're ready. Just click on the blue links in the quote below to go directly to a chosen article.

Articles by Mike Phillips

Copyright ©PBMA - AutogeekOnline.net® All Rights Reserved

Info Resources

Paperback


Mike Phillips' Principles of Machine Polishing


E-book
(Displayed on iPad - iPad not included)


Mike Phillips' The Art Of Detailing Audio Book




Wetsanding - Dampsanding - Colorsanding Topics





New - How to remove wetsanding scratches by hand - FG 400



Wetsanding, Colorsanding & Dampsanding

3M Trizact 6 Inch 3000 Grit Performance Sanding Disc 01459 - Singles

Video: Wow! 3M #5000 Grit Polishing I mean Sanding Discs!

3™ Trizact™ Foam Discs 5000 FAQs

New Toy - #5000 Grit Trizact Foam Finishing Discs

How to use Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding Blocks to remove runs and dirt nibs in paint

Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips

RIDS and Feathersanding - A Highly Specialized Technique by Mike Phillips

Wetsanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint

Basic Hand Sanding Techniques

The Rule of Thumb

Fight or Flight Method for Gaging Surface Temperature

Griot's 3" Mini Polisher works great as a 3" Dampsander

Dampsanding with 3" Griot's Garage Mini Polisher

It's the person that does the wet-sanding, cutting and buffing that makes or breaks the paint job -Mike Phillips

Meguiar's 6" Unigrit Sanding and Finishing Discs

Meguiar's New 3 Inch Professional Headlight & Spot Repair Kit

Two Schools of Thought when Hand Sanding - Straight-lines or Crosshatch Pattern

The difference between 3M's Hookit and Hookit II Hook-N-Loop Interface Systems

List of Sanding Discs at Autogeek.net

If it has paint... it gets polished...

Removing Orange Peel & Sanding Marks with the Griot's ROP and the Wolfgang Twins

How long will a half sheet of wet/dry sandpaper last before it stops cutting and you need to replace it?

Can an air-powered DA Sander be used to polish paint?

When you're done painting and you're done sanding on the project it's time to clean things up real good. As Mike Phillips so often says, "Work clean". When things are clean it's time to move on to compounding and/or polishing. Just go to this link http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-phillips.html to learn more about compounding and polishing articles.

[ken tuep]

hi ken, thanks for replying. let me start by explaining why i used the combination of sandpapers. when i sanded with the 1000, i was trying to find out what grit i should use that my compound that i am usingwould take out the fine sandpaper marks. i am using meguiar's ultimate compound. i had to go to 2000 to get out all sandpaper marks out.

regarding your questions....the car is a 1980 280zx, 10th anniiversary series, this is the gold and black one. where this is a lmited edition, i must go with the same 2-tone colors.(gold and black).
My painting experience is limited.i and i have a tendency to apply the paint too heavy.
- I do have a well-ventilated area, and follow the PPE quidlines.
- Regarding the type paint....I bought acrylic lacquer because it was the closest to what was on the car.
- regarding the cars condition....there was no flaking, chipping, cracking or bad body work.
Note: Someone looking at the car, may feel that there really was no reason to paint it. Just wanted a winter project.
So, regarding my question, should I prime the whole car or can I go over the original paint job.I will be using clear coat over the complete car as a finish.
thanks ed.

If you are absolutely certain that it has lacquer on it now, then all you will need to so is sand it down completely, I'd recommend using 400 grit wet if spraying sealer, and no finer than 800 grit wet if spraying over the existing paint.

If the current paint isn't lacquer, and is a urethane, then you will need to use a sealer at minimum. The sealer is probably your best bet, since its sprayed wet, directly before you spray the basecoat. If you spray primer, you will have to sand it.

If you paint lacquer over urethane it will create a wrinkle finish, and cause lots of issues.
Since the paint and body work are in good condition, just be sure to sand it completely. When you are done it should look dull like a chalkboard. Be sure to get all the edges completely, I like to use 3M scuff stuff and a red scotchbrite. They allow to follow the edge without changing the contour or shape.

I use dawn or purple power as I sand to keep the surface lubricated, the paper clean, and the paint clean.

I'm typing this from my phone as I help the kids with homework, so I might seem a bit disorganized in my writing. I'll be on the computer later this evening.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online