If it has paint... it gets polished...
Well, actually sanded and compounded and polished an waxed...
The lowest portions of the sides of the body have some pretty bad mottling...
I didn't want to sand these areas too much due to their appearance but wanted to try to flatten them out a little to match the upper portions of the body panels. I taped any hard body lines, trim holes and trim off.
Then sanded using the Meguiar's Unigrit #3000 Foam Finishing Discs. Don't be thinking because it's
#3000 Grit it won't remove a lot of paint, these discs cut fast after they break-in and the break-in after just a few passes. The major panels were sanded on the 6.0 Speed Setting, the minor panels were sanded anywhere from the 3.0 to 5.0, the tighter the area to get into the slower the speed and the more caution used.
The white stuff for anyone reading this wondering what that is, that is clear coat paint that has been sanded off and was in the water film on the panel. After the water evaporates off it leaves the clear coat residue which after being abraded is whitish.
This is where a
hydraulic floor lift is a real asset, but what I alway teach in our classes is,
If you can't bring the car up to you... bring yourself down to the car... 
This is the new Meguiar's Burgundy Soft Buff 4" foam Cutting Pad on a
2 3/4" backing plate attached to the
Flex 3403
Using M105 for my cutting compound, it can sometimes be difficult to wipe off for a variety of reasons but if you wipe whatever panel you're working on immediately then it wipes off pretty easy, that is to wipe the film residue off before it fully dries.
Can't endorse the Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer enough, this is to date, one of the nicest rotary buffers I've ever used and work great for small pads in tight areas or thin panels. For the major panels I'm using the Makita 9227C but for "edging" this car and any and all small, thin panels or tight areas I'm using the 3403
Here's a little tip, anytime you're buffing next to an adjacent panel and it's possible you could run the vertical or side edge of your pad into the paint, lubricate it by working some of the product you're using on the face of the pad onto and into the foam. This will help to keep from generating too much heat and burning the paint and also in the case of these lower panels, help me to remove some of the sanding marks on the angled section.
It's this little long thin section I'm trying to improve and protect.
Picking up just a portion of the bead of product using the
10 @ 10 technique and then working it over a portion of this panel.
Note the safety glasses... don't want any splatter in my eyes...
After removing the sanding marks in the front portion of that panel I picked up my bead and tackled the rear portion...
My personal preference is not handle, if there is a handle I actually like a Stick Handle as I can quickly and easily either remove it or move it from side to side depending upon how it works best for the panel.
Much better...
Back to it... I have the roof worked all the way up to a coat of M21 Synthetic Sealant, going to compound the hood and vertical panels next with the M105, W5000 and Makita.
Linear Mode
