Video: The Flex 3403 Rotary Buffer – How to remove Sanding Marks after Dampsanding Orange Peel

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Video: The Flex 3403 Rotary Buffer – How to remove Sanding Marks after Dampsanding Orange Peel


Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer
11.5 Amps
1100 to 3700 RPM
5 Pounds
1 Year Limited Warranty

The Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer​

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVm_IJuXNc0]YouTube - Mike Phillips Showcases the Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer[/video]




What's in the box?

Well packaged and wrapped tool...

Out of the box you get the Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer, two types of handles, a Stick Handle and a forward Bale Handle, owners manual and Allen wrench to remove or replace the forward grip handle.

The forward Bale Handle has an ergonomic design and give you excellent control and leverage over the Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer.

The black button you see in the head housing is a gear lock button to lock-up the gears to keep the spindle from rotating so you can remove or install backing plates or attachments without the spindle rotating.

Comfortable Forward Bale Handle comes pre-installed.

Industry standard 5/8" Course Thread Spindle accepts most professional grade backing plates.

Here's the Flex 3403 with the Forward Bale Handle removed and the factory Stick Handle installed.

It can be used on either side of the rotary buffer depending upon your personal preference or the design of the body panels.

There's an optionalThe FLEX Grip Side Handle which reduces vibration during operation.

The Flex Grip Handle is a few inches longer than the factory plastic stick handle.

The Flex Grip Handle appears and acts like a handle inside a handle with a rubber liner to separate the two components and provide the vibration reduction.

The Edge 2000 6" Wool Buffing Pads and the Edge 2000 Foam Buffing Pads are about as large in diameter as you want to go with the Flex Lightweight Rotary Buffer.

The Edge 2000 6" series buffing pads require the 3M Quick Release Adaptor to attach to the 5/8" Spindle.

One side of the adaptor threads on to the spindle and then the internal backing plate snaps onto the other end and one of the benefits is a perfectly aligned and thus balanced pad.

Here's the Edge 2000 Blue Finishing Pad attached to the 3M Adapter to give you a size reference and general all over view.

Here's the Edge 2000 Black Heavy Cut Wool Cutting Pad.

To remove a pad simply pull back on the release lever and the buffing pad will pop-off...

To clean wool pads you can use a Spur...

Or a Pad Washer like the Autogeek System 2000 Pad Washer

To clean a foam buffing pad you can use a Foam Pad Conditioning Brush

You can also use a Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer

In my article, "How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project" I gave the Flex 3403 and "Ease of Use Ranking" of 4, see the blue portion in the excerpt below from that article for the reason why...

How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project

Rotary Buffers are the tool of choice for professionals in the refinishing industry, (body shops where new paint is sprayed), and the reconditioning industry, (car detailing both mobile detailers and fixed locations.

Rotary Buffers, also referred to as Circular Polishers use powerful electric motors to power direct drive gear systems that force a spindle to rotate in one circular direction. When you place a backing plate and a buffing pad onto the spindle you now have a tool that offers the most correction ability out of all the tools listed here. Another way of saying this is a rotary buffer has the ability to remove a lot of paint fast.

Now I know that never sounds good but remember the industries this tool is targeted at and designed for and that's body shops and detail shops.

In a body shop situation, often times after a car is sprayed with fresh paint, after the paint dries it may be wet-sanded or color sanded to remove Orange Peel by sanding the textured surface flat. After the finish is sanded flat the next step is to remove the sanding marks which is requires a polisher that has a lot of power to cut into the paint and level it thus removing the sanding marks or sanding scratches.

In the detailing industry, a lot of seasoned professional detailers will want to use a rotary buffer for the same reason, that is they want to use a tool to remove a lot of paint quickly only instead of removing a controlled pattern of sanding marks they want to remove uncontrolled or random deeper defects like swirls, scratches, etching and water spots.

The other tools listed above like the dual action polishers, the Cyclo Polisher and the Hybrid Flex 3401 can all remove these types of deeper, serious defects but just not as quickly as they don't have the same type of power.

This power is a double-edged sword as it enables the user to quickly remove serous paint defects but if the user is not careful they can also heat up the paint on a high point or body line and actually burn or grind through the paint to expose the underlying layer of paint and in some cases the actual metal that makes up a panel.

So with greater power comes the responsibility to master the tool so you don't make mistakes.

Now listed this category as having both an Ease of Use Ranking of 4 and 5 because in this category there is a smaller, lightweight rotary buffer and its small size and lightweight make it dramatically easier to control and mastering a rotary buffer is matter of learning to control a rotary buffer.

The full size traditional models weigh more and their physically larger size just makes them a couple ticks more difficult to learn to control and to actually control when buffing out complete cars.

The learning curve of mastering a rotary buffer is the steepest and longest of all these tools and the tired and true way to learn the way of the rotary buffer is with a combination of education, hands-on training and real-world experience, lots of real-world experience.

Some other pads that work well with the 3403 are the,


Meguiar's W-7006, W-8006 and W-9006
Lake Country 5.5" foam flat pads
The 6" Kompressor Pads
Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads
Griot's Garage 3 Inch Orange Polishing Foam Pad


Pads smaller in diameter allows the tool to work easier...

The Edge Wool and Foam Pads actually buff real nice on the 3403 plus they are perfectly centered.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Continued...

Even though this is a lightweight rotary buffer, it's still capable of doing some heavy duty work.

This 1964 Ford Falcon Futura was re-painted a few years ago and has what we call excessive Orange Peel.

Orange Peel
The term Orange Peel comes from the appearance of paint that looks like the peel of an orange, that is there are thousands of dimples in the paint, like little hills and valleys.

Orange Peel

Before sanding I took some measurements using the Defelsko Paint Thickness Gauge and the readings were all over the board... the higher readings could be indicators of where some body filler is under the paint.

This is a picture of the orange peel with just the tops knocked off, all I did was sand for a few passes and then stop and wipe off the sanding slurry. After I'm finished sanding all the orange peel off, the paint will have a uniform flat surface.

In this picture the pencil is pointing to what's called a Dirt Nib, or DIP which stands for Dirt in Paint.

You can see the dirt particle is being removed as the orange peel is being sanded and the finish is being flattened out...

Ready to finish sanding and remove all the orange peel

I've taped off the edges to prevent sanding on them, the white patterns you see on the trunk lid is actually clear paint that has been sanded off and was embodied in my fresh water supply that's used when dampsanding.

I let it dry only to take this picture to show the slurry and that I divided the trunk lid into 2 sections when I sanded. Normally you don't want to tackle anything larger than about a 2' x 2' section at one time due to evenness of pressure over the span of your reach. This is something we teach in our Detailing 102 classes here at Autogeek.

I used the Meguiar's #1500 Unigrit 6" Sanding Discs to quickly remove the orange peel and flatten out the surface.

In this picture I've re-sanded the trunk lid using a Meguiar's #3000 Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc. This removed the #1500 grit sanding marks and reduced the depth of the new sanding marks to #3000 grit sanding marks. This will make buffing out the sanding marks quick and easy as well as avoid building up any heat and reduce deeper swirls inflicted by trying to work out deeper sanding marks.

Here I've wiped of the sanding slurry and now the paint has almost a sheen to it and is ready to start compounding.

In this shot I removed the first tape lines so I could wipe off any residue that built up around the tape lines that could include particles off the sanding discs. This will help to prevent instilling any swirls into the paint, an important step.

A few random measurements after dampsanding twice with #1500 and #3000 Unigrit sanding and finishing discs.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Continued...


It's best to stick with smaller pads when using the Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer, to this point I'm going to use the Edge 2000 Series 6" Wool Cutting pads to remove the sanding marks and then the Edge 2000 Series 6" Foam Pads to remove any swirls left by the compounding step and polish to a high gloss.


This is the Black, Heavy Cut Wool Buffing pad. Brand new wool pads will loose some fibers as they break in and this will create Wool Dust Bunnies all over the floor in your shop, one way to reduce the amount of fibers on the floor is to trap them in a Pad Cleaner by cleaning the pad before you use it.

Here I've cleaned the pad inside the Autogeek System 2000 Pad Cleaner and the working face of this buffing pad is ready to go to work.

I've set the speed setting to the 2 position and this equals 1500 RPM. I do almost all my cutting at 1400 to 1500 RPM, I rarely and probably never go over 1500 RPM unless I'm working on some old lacquer or a gel-coat finish. Modern clear coat paints don't like heat...

This is called a "bead" or "strip" of product, it's actually M105 Ultra Cutting Compound. I'll use two beads like this for one half of the trunk lid. I'll use the 10 @ 10 Technique to pick up my bead and then buff out just one half of the trunk lid.

Here's the results after removing the sanding marks with the Flex 3403 Rotary Buffer

This shot is just to show there is no gloss or reflectivity on the sanded side.

Gloss is restored to the compounded side.

Anytime you're using any kind of abrasive product to remove defects you're going to end up with two substances on the face of your pad.

• Removed paint
• Spent product

It's important to remove the buffing residue off the buffing pad often to enable you to "Work Clean" and this reduces the potential for instilling swirls while compounding plus makes buffing easier.

Let's pull the tape line off and inspect the results close-up...

Here you can see before and after results... often times you'll see my finger in pictures and the reason for this is it quickly gives the camera something to focus on as explained in this article.

Comments:
I found the Edge Black Heavy Cut Wool pad to be one of the most aggressive and fastest cutting wool pad I've ever used... this pad will make removing sanding marks or other below surface defects quick and easy with minimal heat build-up.



Time to remove the sanding marks from the other side, I've taped a clock to the back window just to give some kind of indicator as to how long some of these procedures took but it's not real exact because there's always interruptions, like the battery in my camera dying and then having to walk back to the office to get a fresh battery in-between steps...

For this side I'm going to switch to the Yellow Medium Cut Edge 2000 6" pad. This isn't quite as aggressive as the black pad but still an aggressive cutting pad. In this picture I've already cleaned it in the pad washer and spurred the working face of the pad so it's ready to go to work.

To give you a visual reference as to how long of a bead to lay down, I've "gently" placed a new pencil along side my bead of product.

One bead for the top portion of this half...

A second bead of compound for the other portion of this half of the trunk lid...

Sanding marks are gone, the Flex 3403 cut them out without flinching...

All the sanding marks have been removed and the results actually look like I've already polished the paint but I haven't, that's next.

Again, anytime you're abrading paint you have spent product and removed paint building up on the face of you're buffing pad and you want and need to remove this with either a pad washer or a spur or in a perfect world both.

First use the pad washer to wash the residue off and then use the spur to further separate and fluff the fibers. If you don't own a spur and you're using wool pads to compound, then invest in a spur, they are very affordable and much better for the life of the pad than using the Caveman method of using a screwdriver.

Yes I've used screwdrivers when that's all I've had to clean a pad but a spur is safer for you and better for the pad.

In this picture I've actually removed the previous tape around the trunk lid and here's why... by removing the tape I can remove the compounding residue that build-up along the tape line. This is key because you don't want any spent compound residues or removed paint particles entering into your polishing step.

I've also replaced the tape with fresh tap but moved it close to the edge so more of the panel will now get polished. It's these little details that enable you to work clean and have the most control over your polishing process.

Here's another quote for you when it comes to creating a show car finish...

"Sometimes the little things are the big things"


To remove any swirls left by the compound process and the fibers of the wool cutting pads, I've switched over to the Blue Edge 2000 6" Finishing pad. This is a great all around polishing pad. I’m also using the M205 as it's designed to be used after the M105.

Like the compound, I'm going to place a bead of product onto the surface of the paint and then use the 10 @ 10 Technique to pick up my bead and machine polish the paint with the Flex 3403

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Continued...

If you look closely you can see a very thin film of polishing residue on the surface... at this stage of the process you must use your very best skill and ability to wipe-off and remove polishing residue so you don't instill scratches back into the finish...

Here's the panel wiped clean and the tape has been removed so I can wipe off any polish residue so that it won't mix into the polishing process for the next step.

For this next step, I've switched over to the ultra smooth and soft white finishing pad, I’ve always called this step "Finish Polishing" but another term used for this last rotary buffer step when using an ultra soft pad and a finishing polish is jewelling... the terms are interchangeable.

For this step I'll use two beads of M205, one bead for each half of the trunk lid... It's important to use an ample amount of product at this stage of the process...

For finish polishing I've turned my speed setting to the 1 setting which is 1100 RPM, I know some people think this is somehow much faster than the industry standard of a low of 1000 RPMs for most rotary buffers but I'm here to tell you that from a practical user experience there's not enough difference between 1100 RPM and 1000 RPM for it to ever be an issue or affect your end results...

It's a "Best Practice" to always clean the face and sides of your foam pads with a nylon pad conditioning brush before doing any polishing work. At this point the paint on the trunk lid is polished to an ultra smooth, ultra high gloss and any particulate that gets trapped between the paint and the face of the pad could instill swirls back into the finish. So always work clean...

I made about 6 section passes to each half using only a little more than the weight of the machine and that's mostly to maintain a smooth, even pad contact with the surface.

Here's the end-results after wipe-off...

You can see a clear reflection of the Porter Cable banner in the paint...

It's hard to get a dark reflection out of light paint but the point is there's no longer any orange peel...

The Flex 3403 with 6" Edge Double Sided Buffing Pads is a winning combination for removing sanding marks and other below surface defects.

Products Showcased
Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer
Flex SoftVib Stick Handle
3M Quick Release Adaptor
Edge 6" Wool Buffing Pads
Edge 6" Foam Buffing Pads
Meguiar's 6" Unigrit Sanding Discs
Meguiar's 6" Unigrit Finishing Discs
Defelsko Electronic Paint Thickness Gauge
Lake Country Wool Pad Spur
Foam Pad Conditioning Brush
Autogeek's System 2000 Pad Cleaner
Meguiar's M205
Meguiar's M105
Porter Cable 7424XP
3M Automotive Performance Masking Tape
Cobra Supreme 530 Microfiber Towel
Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer
2-3/4 inch Hook & Loop Rotary Backing Plate




Further Resources
Dampsanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips
Meguiar's 6" Unigrit Sanding and Finishing Discs
Wet-sanding, Color-sanding & Damp-sanding
The Rule of Thumb
Wet-sanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint
Factors that affect how aggressive or non-aggressive a product is...
"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"
How to break open a coating of wax and remove it by creeping out...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The last step... applying your LSP or Last Step Product...


At this time there as been no wax or paint sealant applied to the trunk lid of the Ford Falcon. In the real world, most wetsanding, colorsanding or dampsanding is done to fresh paint after a car or a portion of the car is painted.

In these situations you want to follow your painter's advice as to how soon you should wait before you seal the paint with a wax or paint sealant. Most painters will tell you to wait approximately 30 days for any outgassing to take place.

See this article,

Don't wax your car for at least 30 days!



Since the paint on this car is a few years old, it's okay to seal the paint so the next step would be to put the frosting on the cake...


Frosting on the cake

Copyright ©PBMA - AutogeekOnline.net® All Rights Reserved​

After all the hard work of claying, compounding and then polishing your car's paint to perfection is over... it's time to put the frosting on the cake...


Taking your car's finish to it's maximum potential
Assuming the paint on your car is truly in excellent condition, a finishing wax, sealant or hybrid will take your car’s paint to it's highest level or it's maximum potential.

An analogy would be,

Like frosting is to cake a finishing wax, sealant or hybrid is to a highly polished automotive finish...


Cake is good, but frosting on cake is better. It's the finishing touch or last step which creates a work of art to gaze upon and a taste of heaven that's sweet and delicious...
​

See these related article...


The Benefits of using a Car Wax or Paint Sealant

Sacrificial Barrier Coating = The purpose of a wax or synthetic paint sealant

How to break open a coating of wax and remove it by creeping out...

The Difference Between a Cleaner/Wax and a Finishing Wax

Which products need to dry – The Car Wax Mentality

LSP - The definition and the story behind the term

 

[clearview]

That was so much fun to read. I love the results, unreal! Everytime I see you use a certain product/pad combo I want to run out and get it to achieve the same results. I know, I know, user experience, conditions etc... all affect it but what you do to cars is awesome! Thanks for the great tutorials, and PLEASE keep em coming! :dblthumb2:

 

[Meghan]

Very nice Mike, that is one of the only rotary polishers I will use. Very lightweight and easy to work with. That paint on Harvey never looked so good!

 

[A4 1.8tqm]

Very nice write up, I especially like the close-up detail of the "tops knocked off" on the orange peel. rops:

I can definitely vouch for the Flex L3403 and sanding mark removal. I just did some damp sanding orange peel removal yesterday, via 6" trizact discs on my Flex 3401. Then compounded with Menz Power Gloss on 6.5" LC Yellow, my L3403 tore right through the sanding marks leaving only light rotary holograms. Being the first time that I have removed sanding marks via Rotary, I was amazed at how fast this combo achieved near perfect results (even though I've already found the paint on this car to be very "workable"). I was very happy with the performance of the machine.

I highly recommend the L3403 to anyone in the market for a lightweight rotary, such a pleasure to use!

 

[CEE DOG]

Thanks for all the great information on this Mike! I very much enjoyed the "unpacking pictures" and the read.

 

[sullysdetailing]

Love this machine. Great write up Mike

 

[Erik Mejia]

Love the write-up Mike. I too like that little Flex. Great job. :dblthumb2:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

***Update***


I e-mailed Robert Eichelberg the President of Flex North America, Inc. the link to my recent articles on the Flex 3403 with my max recommendation of 6.5" for a pad diameter and asked as to the official recommendation for maximum pad size for the Flex 3403 by Flex and he replied,

I would go with your suggestion. Our catalog states 6.5 inch max.

There's a fuzzy line between what some would judge as a small pad and some would judge as a large pad and in my book that line goes like this...

6.5" and smaller pads = Small Pads
_________________________________

7" and larger pads = Large Pads


Everyone can decide for themselves where they want to draw the line but that's the guideline I go by...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The paint on Harvey never looked so good!

Well at least the paint on the trunk lid never look so good...

That was so much fun to read. I love the results, unreal! Every time I see you use a certain product/pad combo I want to run out and get it to achieve the same results. I know, I know, user experience, conditions etc... all affect it but what you do to cars is awesome!

Thanks for the great tutorials, and PLEASE keep em coming!

You'll see a few more wetsanding or dampsanding articles coming up as I continue working around Harvey removing the Orange Peel.


:buffing:
:xyxthumbs:

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Nice job, Mike. Just to clarify, you used speed setting 1( M205), for both the blue and white pad, correct?

I'm surprised the blue pad was able to remove swirls from the black wool/M105. Generally speaking, are rotary buffer swirls considered fine swirls?

 

[mg6045]

Mike,

I'm wondering how you were able to blend the original masking tape lines on the edges, where you never sanded ?

In the final picture, it looks like everything is uniform and perfect, right to or past the edge.

I have always wanted to know how professionals are able to do this so well.

Is the orange peel visible on the edges at all ? Please direct me to any info if there is some available online. thank you very much for all your articles. I have learned so much from them.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Mike,

I'm wondering how you were able to blend the original masking tape lines on the edges, where you never sanded ?

I didn't. I could, but it would take more time, the idea was to capture the big picture...

Major on the majors... minor on the minors...


I answered a similar question about doing fine perfectionist work here...

Step-by-Step How-To Article using Pinnacle Products with the new PC 7424XP

You[/B] can invest more time and just run the tape down the rubber and get it close to the edge of the panel if you want or just overhang a little like I did here. It's your choice based upon what you're trying to accomplish and how much time you want to invest.

Same kind of idea applies to removing orange peel right up to every single edge on a car.

If it's your car, then it's your time and money and you can invest your time and money into sanding up to the edge and then carefully removing the sanding marks without burning through the paint on the edges.

If you're doing this for a customer, in most cases you'll find that because doing this kind of perfectionist work takes a LOT of time, that most people won't want to pay for it let alone understand what's involved.

For the most part, you're going to need to explain to the customer how careful you'll have to be when sanding close to and edge and then what it will take work-wise, and time-wise to remove the sanding marks out of the paint close to the edge, and then get them to pay you your rate.

In the final picture, it looks like everything is uniform and perfect, right to or past the edge.

There's a fuzzy half inch of orange peel around all the perimeter edges, actually it's a bout the length of my thumbnail which goes along with this article I wrote on this topic here,

The Rule of Thumb


There's actually some pretty good information on this topic you've brought up in the above article.

I have always wanted to know how professionals are able to do this so well.

A lot of times when I'm check out show cars, I look at the edges to see if the orange peel was sanded and removed around the edges and usually it's not. It's not that it can't be done, it's just time intensive as compared to buffing out the major portions of each panel where most people look.

That's what I mean by major on the major and minor on the minors...

Major on the mass portions of each panel and minor on the minor portions of each panel unless it's your car and your time or your customer is willing to pay for you time to do this kind of perfectionist work.

I interviewed with Chip Foose a couple of times to do all his wetsanding, cutting and buffing and this was the kind of work he wanted done and the cool thing was he understood what it takes to do this kind of work. The average person doesn't know or understand.

I'm working with a local guy right now that anded down his Jeep, he sanded right up to all the edges. He has never sanded a car before, he has never used a rotary buffer before, he has no clue as to what he's doing or the work he's created for himself. He offered to pay me to finish his project but I'd rather let someone else have the opportunity. To date, no one else wants the opportunity, so I'm guiding him through the project and he's getting hands-on training and education.

Is the orange peel visible on the edges at all ? Please direct me to any info if there is some available online. thank you very much for all your articles. I have learned so much from them.

Yes, definitely visible.

If I wanted to sand the panels flat right up to the edge of this 1964 Ford Falcon or any car then I would still tape-off the very edge of each panel, carefully sand to the tape-line and then pull as many of the sanding marks out by machine using small pads on a rotary and then finishing the job by hand using M105, like you see in this picture,


Again, from this article,

The Rule of Thumb

Show Car and Perfectionist Sanding and Polishing
For those of you wanting to do perfectionist sanding and polishing, first make sure you're getting paid well because you can sand right up to an edge but removing your sanding marks has to be done carefully and this means it will require you to invest more time into the project.


How to sand right up to an edge and remove your sanding marks by hand
There is a fix for the issue of sanding right next to an edge or a raised body line and that's by carefully sanding and then using Meguiar's M105 Ultra Compound by hand to remove your sanding marks. Another way to remove sanding marks next to an edge or to a raised body line is to use Spot Repair Pads on a rotary buffer using a technique I call Edging.

Because M105 is aggressive, (rated at being able to remove #1200 Grit Sanding Marks on fresh paint), and recommended for use by hand, you can easily remove sanding marks by hand if you're willing to put a little passion behind the pad.

There are a lot of compounds that can be applied by hand to remove sanding marks, but it's the ability of the super micro abrasive technology, (SMAT), used in M105 that gives it both its' cutting ability and the ability to polish out clear and glossy that makes M105 Ultra Compound a good choice for carefully rubbing out sanding marks right up to an edge or a raised body line by hand.

Note: The blue line you see in the pictures below is vinyl tape applied over the top of a body lines on the hood of this 1969 El Camino to make it easier to see and protect them. You can also do this with the edges of a panel.

Sanding to the edge and then removing 100% of your sanding marks can be done, it just takes time, perspiration and patience...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Nice job, Mike. Just to clarify, you used speed setting 1( M205), for both the blue and white pad, correct?

Don't remember now, but my normal process wold be to do the first passes around 1400 RPM to cut out any swirls and then clean the pad, clean the paint, apply fresh product and then slow the RPM down.

I'm surprised the blue pad was able to remove swirls from the black wool/M105. Generally speaking, are rotary buffer swirls considered fine swirls?

Lots of factors come into play...

Hardness or softness of paint, actually, I prefer to reference paint as polishable or workable, it's more descriptive than just hard or soft.

Abrasives used during the compounding step - With M105 it's less of an issue, but if someone were using a compound with larger/different types of abrasives you could leave deeper swirls that would/could require more work to remove.

Downward pressure for the final passes, pushing hard will inflict swirls deeper, buffing lightly will leave more shallow swirls to have to remove.

Type and condition of wool pad - I always recommend to people to work clean and practice it myself.


Those are off the top of my head... I wouldn't say that generally speaking rotary buffer swirls are fine swirls.

I would say rotary buffer swirls can be fine or shallow, depends upon the process, products and person.

 

[mg6045]

Mike, thank you very much for the detailed answer and links you provided !

You have finally helped me get to the bottom of a topic that I was always curious about !

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Mike, thank you very much for the detailed answer and links you provided !

You have finally helped me get to the bottom of a topic that I was always curious about !

No problemo...

Great questions...

I try to add enough typed-out information that you or anyone reading this into the future gets the answers they're looking for, on some forums you'll just have people post, use the search button, or PM me or call me... but not here on AGO.

We aim to provide quality information in a public way... that is the idea of a text and picture-based "discussion forum".

 

[Andrew C.]

Hey Mike, so your readings were all over the place on this one with the PTG and you were guessing it was because of body filler. What do you do in this case where you cannot get an average paint thickness since you can't tell if there is one are that is thinner than the other?

Traditionally, how thick is factory CC paint and how do you handle it if the readings do vary quite some bit and you plan on sanding?