We might have a wetsanding project coming up in the future, if you're interested shoot me an e-mail and I'll add you to my notification list so you'll know way ahead of time in order to make your travel arrangements.
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****Bump****
Been a lot of questions lately on wetsanding cars with the factory paint on them...
Just answered a Private Message for a guy that has apparently sanded or sanded and then buffed through the clear layer and exposed the basecoat.
At this point, the only fix is to have the car or affected panels repainted.
Please read through this article I wrote as I explain the differences between sanding factory paint and fresh paint.
Self-education via reading...
:D
Mike I am new to the site and have yet to buy the tools, I did buy your book. The Art of Detailing. I just have to say thank you! I also have to say I am glad that I am acoustomed to a few forums that I was patient enough to dig a bit to find this topic. I am planing a repaint of my motorcycle and want it to pop! Between this topic and the "Getting metal flake to pop" topic, I am learning what I need.
I am pretty certain I have over hand overworked my bike over the years because the hand painted pin stripe on the tank has a spot where I can feel it lifting off.
I can assure you that it will have at least 4 or 5 good coats of clear when done. If I had a way to send you a pic of the first bike I painted and wet sanded and buffed all by hand, would add it in. (I have never been good at posting any pic to any of my other forums)
Scott.
No, thank you Scott for your business... :dblthumb2:
This article,
Making the Metallic Flake Pop! - Popping versus Muting
Yeah... lots of confusion in the forum world on what it really takes to make it easy for the human eyes to see through the clear coat to the metallic or rather mylar flake embedded into the basecoat.
It's really quite simple. It's not a specific "wax" or "sealant" or "coating". It's making the clear coat clear.
I write articles on how to get the pictures out of the memory stick and inserted into a thread like this...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...oIndyPC089.jpg
The car above is an example of having the graphics painted UNDER the clear and then you never have to hassle with lifting graphics or preventing or removing polish and wax residue from the edges of the graphics.
In my opinion, it's the only way to go and worth any extra cost in a paint job.
See all the pictures from the above project here...
1969 Camaro Pace Car - Show Car Makeover - Modeled by Michelle
From my article list...
Photography and Working with Pictures on the Internet
How to use Image Tags to insert a photo
How to create dedicated albums in your photo gallery...
If you're going to be a "Forum Person" on ANY forum, help yourself by learning how to work with picture on the Internet
How to resize your photos before uploading to a photo gallery - Using Easy Thumbnails
Handiest little picture viewer tool I've been using for years now...
How to upload a photo into your Autogeek Photo Gallery
How to insert an image from your photo gallery into your message
How-To capture swirls, scratches, etchings and other surface defects with your camera
How-to work with pictures on discussion forums
How to crop out the fluff and resize your pictures! - Using FREE online software!
Photobucket and Missing Pictures
:)
THanks Mike,
Just to clearify, the paint was factory from Triumph. Handpainted pin stripe under Clear Coat. After 10 yrs, and no real knowledge of detail and "loving" on it, I felt the place where he finished his prush stroke. I have been very carefull of that now. I plan to keep that stripe when I repaint. Hope I do it right the first time or I will have to strip the whole thing and start from scratch.
Nice to know about your suggestion.
Brand new cars as you know company made. But the fresh paint at an workshop you know we handled it by our style and efforts so i prefer this one.
I looks more beautiful than a new one.
:)
House of Kolor
and they sand and buff in the end.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYB4Yxeq_M8]House Of Kolor - How To Paint A Car - John Kosmoski - YouTube[/video]
Very good article Mike, lots of useful information for folks who want to learn wet-sanding.
Those photos of You are very inspiring.
I would like to add some information from my personal experience.
The soft paint is easier to sand and buff, but also You must be more careful, the paint will react to heat a lot faster also after some time it may shrink and show some new defects that were not visible after buffing the paint which is fresh. That's just what I encountered during my not so many wet sand and buffs in early years :)
Thank you sir.
I see a lot of people in the Facebook and forum world that "talk" about wet sanding but I don't see any meaty article from them. Takes time to put your opinions and experience down on paper or in pixels and the let the world judge what you write.
Thanks for sharing your insights...
:)