LSP stripping

[Ohio Detailing]

At the time I wrote this, Eraser had not been not invented yet, nor was Squeaky Clean, nor was Detailer's Paint Coating Prep. So please keep in context that this article was written in 2010 and the products at that time that were commonly being,

I always enjoy reading your posts (and books) and finding new product, I just looked these three up, and then found a new one recently added to this thread by Sonus. I'll post the links below to help others find and compare them:

1. Eraser
2. Griot's Garage Paint Prep (I couldn't find "Squeaky Clean" so this might be the same?)
3. Detailer's Pride Coating Paint Coating Polish
4. Sonus All-in-One (says it cleans carpet, upholstery, and vinyl - so I'm not sure if this is for paint prep?)

Back to researching for me... thanks for the great thread everyone!

[ski2]

This whole thread got me to thinking -- could a quality sealant keep IronX from doing it's job at removing contaminants from the paint???

My 07 Passat was shipped from Germany so transit time was longer than most cars. On the day of delivery it was washed, clayed and protected with Z2. Since then it has always been protected--Z2 for the first couple of years, then DG 105 for a couple of years and DG105 topped with HD POXY for the last couple of years--clayed annually, but never chemically decontaminated. So this spring after a fulll wash and dry I used IronX and followed Cory's instructions to the t. I had no purple at all visible on the paint and no purple running off the paint to the concrete.

Could the sealants have prevented the IronX from interacting with the paint??

[Dewy]

I've been wondering the same thing and want to keep this thread going. Tkanks

[PiPUK]

I think we discussed something similar a while back. Whilst I cannot be definitive, I believe that the logic holds. If there is contamination on the vehicle and it is sealed up then it seems entirely plausible that the contamination could be 'protected'. Proving it could be quite difficult.

[ski2]

I think we discussed something similar a while back. Whilst I cannot be definitive, I believe that the logic holds. If there is contamination on the vehicle and it is sealed up then it seems entirely plausible that the contamination could be 'protected'. Proving it could be quite difficult.

Thanks PiPUK! I guess I'll have to wait untill spring then before I use IronX I'll give the car a good cleaning with machine applied DG Squeky Clean. It will be interesting to see if I get more "purple" with the IronX.

[Mike Phillips]

If there is contamination on the vehicle and it is sealed up then it seems entirely plausible that the contamination could be 'protected'.

This happens if a person uses a non-cleaning wax or sealant over time to a daily driver.

Paint gets dirty when exposed to the world, that is the outside environment. The dirt or whatever contaminants are in the air and water land on the car and embedded onto and into the paint to some extent at the microscopic level.

Using a non-cleaning wax, or a non-cleaning sealant acts to seal the dirt or contaminants into and onto the paint.

Proving it could be quite difficult.

Nah... you just need a car that has not been properly cared for but the color must be light, not dark or the human eyes will not be able to see the difference.

That's what the pictures show in my article here,

Here's why you need to polish paint...

My buddy Mike owns this really cool 1932 Ford Phaeton with yellow paint that to the average person looks pretty good. But a little polishing using a tape-line shows why all of us need to periodically polish the paint on our cars, especially our daily drivers, and the reason for this is because the paint becomes stained with a film of dirt that clouds the true color of the paint.

Here's a section I've taped off on the cowel because me and one of our forum members already buffed out the hood when he stopped by to test out polishers.






On the left I've clayed the paint and then machine polished it twice and then applied a coat of wax. You can clearly see the left side is now a brighter color of yellow and the right hand side has what appears to be grayish film over the paint.




Here's the same picture above with graphics....






A person would never know though unless they did something like I did in the article and that is to place a tape line on the paint and then just clean/polish on one side of the tape line.


Of course the same thing is happening to dark colored cars.

[Dewy]

Mike. I think there is some confusion over the question or its too early in the morning for me. We are asking about a well sealed car. Will the sealant protect the paint from the ironx? I am wanting to strip my car down and dp coat it for winter. It has a layer of wg3 on it now. If I ironx, will the WG prevent the ironx from doing its job? Thanks for your help.

[Mike Phillips]

Mike. I think there is some confusion over the question or its too early in the morning for me. We are asking about a well sealed car. Will the sealant protect the paint from the ironx? I am wanting to strip my car down and dp coat it for winter. It has a layer of wg3 on it now. If I ironx, will the WG prevent the ironx from doing its job? Thanks for your help.

Great question Dewy...

A couple comments...

1. Waxes and sealants wear off... they are Sacrificial Barrier Coatings. They sacrifice themselves so your paint doesn't have to sacrifice itself. (That is when it's attacked or even "touched).

So how long has it been since you sealed the paint with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant?



2. In the years I've been working on forums, when dealing with very deep questions, a lot of time I'll put the issue into EXTREMES. Here's how I would do this for this topic...


Will a coat of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 help IronX to do it's job?


The answer is "no".

What is the opposite of the word help? In this context it would be hinder. But see how deep we're getting?


If it were me, I would follow the steps I show below, that is just wash the car carefully and then apply the IronX. Then do your folow up steps.

It's all too easy to take something very simple, washing and waxing your car and turn it into Rocket Science.

Check this out... page 2 of this thread...


1994 Porsche 964 Turbo 3.6 - Modeled by Janna and Amy



Next, wash the body panels starting at the top and working down, I also continually rinsed the wheels and tires as I worked around the car so any lingering resides were rinsed off..

Note the labels on the buckets, simple idea but helpful because as you work around the car even though one bucket is the soap solution and the other is rinse water, they both end up with suds floating on top. The labels make it easy to quickly identify which bucket is which...









Next up... decontaminate the body panels using Iron X






After allowing the product to dwell for a few minutes I gently re-washed the paint and then rinsed all the residue off...



Ready to dry, for this I used Guzzler Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towels...




There's a lot more info on page 2 of the above thread, I just copied and pasted the pertinent parts... and of course... the Porsche came out great...

[PiPUK]

Whilst making things excessively complex is bad, it is important to understand the necessary complexity. I know it isn't popular on here but this goes with many things detailing, whether it is the science of the process/products or the safety data sheets.

Anyhow, I guess we should take care to clarify on Mike's post (or at least what I assume is meant). The query was whether a durable sealant on top of contamination can shield that contamination from a decontaminator, such as IX. As Mike agrees in #86 - yes, this is quite possible if you apply products without removing contamination first. I guess Mike's previous post wasn't specifically addressing this scenario because most durable sealant's will simply not be removed by a normal wash process. As such, a good thorough wash, prior to your bleeding fallout remover will not cut it. If you have sealed in contamination, you will need to remove that sealer so that you can get access to the contamination below. IX and similar products will simply not be able to penetrate a half decent sealant.

This actually gives me a thought with regards to another test - I am going to seal up a contaminated panel and do a side by side. I would imagine that the sealed side will bleed notably less. I'll then do some cleaning with supposed LSP strippers and see if I can uncover that sealed in contamination.

[FUNX650]

This actually gives me a thought with regards to another test - I am going to seal up a contaminated panel and do a side by side. I would imagine that the sealed side will bleed notably less. I'll then do some cleaning with supposed LSP strippers and see if I can uncover that sealed in contamination.

I consider this to be quite an altruistic action upon your part.
Thanks!



Bob