Wolfgang Finishing Glaze

[swanicyouth]

Really? I thought "we" in the forums concluded 6-7 years ago that some of the Menz polishes have some lubricating oils that are very tenacious and can fool you if you don't remove them completely. I mean, I think it was Todd Helme, when he started using what now is called SF4000 and SF4500, who made this discovery, and this would have been back before TID even got started.

Don't know, maybe I was fooled. Whatever the case, call it "glaze" or call it "oils", you have to be careful with this one, because it can hide defects and make you think you removed them.

[MarkD51]

Don't know, maybe I was fooled. Whatever the case, call it "glaze" or call it "oils", you have to be careful with this one, because it can hide defects and make you think you removed them.

Yet, it seems per manufacturer's claims, and some of the other folks here have said, you can go straight from WGTSR, to WGFG, to WGDGPS 3.0 with no issues, and no need to use an IPA Mix, or some other product like Carpro Eraser, etc?

Evidently then, there may only be a percentage of truth to this claim, and that to be safe as far as proper correction being done prior to the LSP being applied, and as well proper bonding of LSP itself, perhaps one should still do a final cleansing wipedown regardless of said claims, or hearsay?

As one thread, and one poster once touched upon, "I never recalled applying a finish to my vehicle, and came out the next morning finding my sealant-wax lying on the garage floor".

I reckon that's not what happens though. Without being able to bond, or in layman's terms "stick" to the paint, one applies it, and then simply wipes it right back off.

Thus, one is lavishly treating their wax towels only.
Mark

[Setec Astronomy]

Don't know, maybe I was fooled. Whatever the case, call it "glaze" or call it "oils", you have to be careful with this one, because it can hide defects and make you think you removed them.

Now that I'm thinking about this, and I may not be remembering this quite right, but this is how the IPA wipedown practice got started. When Menz came out with their polishes for Ceramiclear finishes, everybody started using them, regardless of the finish. Some pro detailers got burned because they polished out defects only to have them return, and they accused Menz of using fillers and started saying a lot of bad things. IIRC it was Todd Helme who debunked the "filler" theory and concluded that the lubricating oils used with the harder abrasives for Ceramiclear were very difficult to remove, and hence the practice of IPA or APC wipedown started, and ultimately led to products like Eraser.

[02xtreme07SS]

Yet, it seems per manufacturer's claims, and some of the other folks here have said, you can go straight from WGTSR, to WGFG, to WGDGPS 3.0 with no issues, and no need to use an IPA Mix, or some other product like Carpro Eraser, etc?

Evidently then, there may only be a percentage of truth to this claim, and that to be safe as far as proper correction being done prior to the LSP being applied, and as well proper bonding of LSP itself, perhaps one should still do a final cleansing wipedown regardless of said claims, or hearsay?

You can chemically strip it, if you feel the need to do so. I have when using Meznerna SF4000 to verify that I am indeed removing and not hiding the defects in my test section. I have not found any hiding. I can't measure whether or not the paint is swelling, but if it swells, I would assume it would at some point relax and the defect would reappear. I have not seen this happen on any of my vehicles.

As far as going from a polish straight to an LSP, this article by Mike Phillips has quite a lot of good information regarding the bonding process and when to remove all traces of the last product before finishing.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...t-bonding.html

[Mike Phillips]

What pad did you use Mike?

The 5.5" Lake Country Black Flat Foam pads like you see on this page...


Lake Country 5.5" Flat Pads



A very versatile finishing pad.

[tpr1634]

I used this for the first time this weekend on my wife's 2008 mercury sable. The paint is in very good shape, so it needed to be clayed which I did then WG finishing glaze. I topped with jet seal 109 and the collinite 845 I am very happy with the results and ease of use. Nice product I'm glad I have it in my bag of tricks.

[HateSwirls]

I just used the Optimum Finish Polish and loved it.
Doesn't have a lot of cut but it may be perfect for you.

Long work time.
Zero dusting
Produces a high gloss.

[tpr1634]

I just used the Optimum Finish Polish and loved it.
Doesn't have a lot of cut but it may be perfect for you.

Long work time.
Zero dusting
Produces a high gloss.

I thought about optimum finish, but I took the the plunge with WG uber compound total swirl remover and finishing glaze. The WG also no dusting decent work time and yes it popped. Can't wait to do my truck after this winter as well.

[tpr1634]

I thought about optimum finish, but I took the the plunge with WG uber compound total swirl remover and finishing glaze. The WG also no dusting decent work time and yes it popped. Can't wait to do my truck after this winter as well.

I did use my flex 3401 with lake country ccs grey pad, I did order the hybrid pads for flex use, see how they work.

[HateSwirls]

I thought about optimum finish, but I took the the plunge with WG uber compound total swirl remover and finishing glaze. The WG also no dusting decent work time and yes it popped. Can't wait to do my truck after this winter as well.

I have the Wolfgang Uber Compound also, really finishes down nicely