Polish Angel Viking Coat 10 Months old A++

[LEDetailing]

Here's what Polish Angel White Alabaster applied as stand alone beading looks like applied the day before it rained. Nice round solid beads.

Attachment 62409

Love the color of the paint combined with the low warm sun light. You always seem to get some great photos of your cars.

[custmsprty]

Thanks

[Eldorado2k]

Nowhere did I say that a decon is a replacement for claying a car that has never been clayed before. You misinterpreted my statements on how to maintain a coated vehicle for one that has never been clayed before.

You’re right, I misinterpreted your statement. My mistake.

And how long are that holding up on it's own? The difference between Ech2o as WW and Ech2o at QD and added reload do you think it's about the same longevity on it's own? I for sure don't think that Ech2o reload would look the same after 6 weeks after applyied. So no I don't count Ech2o WW as a topper that has a big impact to the longevity of a coating. It's the best choice between the choices of WW and rinseless washing to use on ceramic coatings without alter the coating properties.

I have my bottle of Ech2o mixed up @10:1 + 3oz. of Reload. I applied it liberaly to my brothers car last Saturday after I washed & clayed it. Then I did a waterless wash with the same dilution this past Friday, because I knew it was going to rain on Saturday and I wanted it to have a solid layer of Ech2o’s protection on it. I was a bit disappointed with the beading...

So yesterday [Sunday] I decided to give it a waterless wash with Megs D114 and then gave the whole car a quik polish with Carpro Essence and then applied a dedicated sealant. Now it’s fully protected and beading fiercely the way I like it.





I haven’t tested how long Ech2o lasts on it’s own, but I’m pretty sure there would be a difference between QD dilution and WW + Reload dilution. Would it last 6 weeks? Well Carpro claims it will, I strongly disagree with that simply based on the fact that I’ve tested Reload on its own and it doesn’t last that long in the real world of daily drivers.

If I'm going to detail my car I want to remove 100% of the containment not 80% or 95%. That's 1 of the reasons coatings suck. It's a negative like water spots. You can't clay the coating and not expect damage.

I agree. And I don’t really have an issue with the fact that you can’t clay a coating, I have an issue with the coating not being able to prevent contaminants from bonding to it in the 1st place. If it’s supposedly superior protection, it shouldn’t suffer from that weakness. A quality sealant sure doesn’t have that problem..

[Finick]

@E2K

what’s your sealant of choice?


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[SWETM]

You’re right, I misinterpreted your statement. My mistake.



I have my bottle of Ech2o mixed up @10:1 + 3oz. of Reload. I applied it liberaly to my brothers car last Saturday after I washed & clayed it. Then I did a waterless wash with the same dilution this past Friday, because I knew it was going to rain on Saturday and I wanted it to have a solid layer of Ech2o’s protection on it. I was a bit disappointed with the beading...

So yesterday [Sunday] I decided to give it a waterless wash with Megs D114 and then gave the whole car a quik polish with Carpro Essence and then applied a dedicated sealant. Now it’s fully protected and beading fiercely the way I like it.





I haven’t tested how long Ech2o lasts on it’s own, but I’m pretty sure there would be a difference between QD dilution and WW + Reload dilution. Would it last 6 weeks? Well Carpro claims it will, I strongly disagree with that simply based on the fact that I’ve tested Reload on its own and it doesn’t last that long in the real world of daily drivers.



I agree. And I don’t really have an issue with the fact that you can’t clay a coating, I have an issue with the coating not being able to prevent contaminants from bonding to it in the 1st place. If it’s supposedly superior protection, it shouldn’t suffer from that weakness. A quality sealant sure doesn’t have that problem..

About the bonding contaminants. I think that most non autogeek does take advantage of the longer ability to wash less frequently as it stays cleaner longer than most waxes and sealants. This I think does the contaminants to be bonding harder to the paint. So if you have the same maintance with whatever wax sealant or coating I don't think that coating is more able to have imbedded contaminants as the others. Then something most don't notice is that coating is way more chemical resistant than wax or sealant without degrade the longevity of it. So if you where from the start useing a dedicated prewash foam and a car soap like reset or bathe. And do take care of the road film and other contaminants with the different chemicals lets say once a month or every second month. Then I think that the imbedded contaminants is going to be a non issue. But if you where to maintain a coating less than you maintain a sealant you are going to have problems. I do think that it's more important to maintain a coating more thoroughly than a sealant because the way longer the coating is on your car before applying a new coating. Then how often you do the maintance is depending on what kind of environment and the mileage you have. Then of cause it depends on what kind of coating you are useing as they also have different qualities as a wax or sealant has. That's also something I noticed that many think of coatings as one and the same that would be like treat all the sealants as one and the same also.

[MattPersman]

Contaminates are going to be different even with people that live next door to each other. If they drive and park there car next to a rail yard and their neighbor goes to a office that is free and clear of any sort of industrial fall out

I work right by a rock quarry. Like stone dust flying everywhere you can come out and see the heavy dust all over your car after 4-5 hours. Plus it’s all over the roads you have to drive through it they do run the street sweeper periodically but it’s still there. Then if you get a light rain like a misting kind that doesn’t accumulate enough to run off the car it mixes with the dust and stays on the car with dirty beads then dries. I haven’t found anything that stops these contaminates from bonding


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