Which pad setup?

**JAF06SE** · 08-11-2012, 10:55 PM

Hey everybody. So, here's the deal. I just bought some DG105 off of Amazon, which actually ended up coming from here. It came with a 10% off coupon in the box. So, I'm contemplating a purchase of a PC 7424XP. There are some starter kits with your choice of pads in there. So the question is: what of the 5 pads would you choose and the uses of them would be be for what?

**CWallace** · 08-11-2012, 11:04 PM

Well, it really depends on what you want to use the pads for... if you are trying to do a full correction i would start with LC flat pads ( 2 oarnge for cutting, 2 white for polishing, and 1 gray for applying wax or sealant).. there is alot of info on this forum, i don't know how to post links or i would!! as for my personal experience, i find myself using white pads for polishing the most.. so if you are doing details for customers i would invest in mostly white and some gray pads as most of my customers don't care about full corrections... they just want shiny paint and glossy tires!!!

**JAF06SE** · 08-11-2012, 11:27 PM

It'll pretty much be personal vehicles (my wife's and mine) with possibly the occasional family member. Occasional compounding and wax and polish application and removal.

**Infiniti** · 08-11-2012, 11:29 PM

Is the coupon good for the Porter Cable kits. The reason I ask is normally it says "Additional discounts are not applicable." You can buy the 6 pack of 5 1/2 pads for 34.99 which with the 20% off sale right now would cost you 27.99. CWallace replied just like most would here to get the Orange, White, and Gray. I also use the Gray for Glaze and final polishing and have a red for sealant.

**JAF06SE** · 08-11-2012, 11:54 PM

I'll have to look at it again. I thought it was for anything. I'll look tomorrow since its in my truck. I'm just used to doing most of it by hand and using my random orbit to remove.

**JAF06SE** · 08-11-2012, 11:59 PM

On a side note. Is there a special technique to compounding? I used some Meg's UC this weekend on my truck and didn't see much for results. I had a foam bonnet for my smaller RO (which tore when I went to change it) that I used to apply it. Do you apply like wax, let it haze, then remove? Or do you work it for a whole and then remove? I noticed it was a pain to remove I I let it haze. Do I need a pad with more cut? I have swirls and fine scratches in the back half of my truck from my dogs like crazy. They're not deep just enough you can see.

**Infiniti** · 08-12-2012, 12:29 AM

Originally Posted by JAF06SE

On a side note. Is there a special technique to compounding? I used some Meg's UC this weekend on my truck and didn't see much for results. I had a foam bonnet for my smaller RO (which tore when I went to change it) that I used to apply it. Do you apply like wax, let it haze, then remove? Or do you work it for a whole and then remove? I noticed it was a pain to remove I I let it haze. Do I need a pad with more cut? I have swirls and fine scratches in the back half of my truck from my dogs like crazy. They're not deep just enough you can see.

You do not let it haze. You wipe it off after you finish. I used it with a Orange pad and if it is really bad you can use a yellow pad. If you are using something like a Ryobi or Black and Decker RO you probably aren't going to remove too much. Mike Phillips calls them "Wax Spreaders".

**BobbyG** · 08-12-2012, 05:54 AM

Originally Posted by JAF06SE

On a side note. Is there a special technique to compounding? I used some Meg's UC this weekend on my truck and didn't see much for results. I had a foam bonnet for my smaller RO (which tore when I went to change it) that I used to apply it. Do you apply like wax, let it haze, then remove? Or do you work it for a whole and then remove? I noticed it was a pain to remove I I let it haze. Do I need a pad with more cut? I have swirls and fine scratches in the back half of my truck from my dogs like crazy. They're not deep just enough you can see.

Mike Phillips has written some spectacular how-to's and I tend to post them a lot because they are that good.

Compare your technique to what Mikes shown and make the necessary adjustments.

Foam Pads

Yellow Cutting Foam - Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all-around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Green Polishing/Finishing Foam - Use this foam to apply one-step cleaner waxes. It is a balance of polishing and finishing that is perfect for all-in-one product application.

Gray Finishing Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.

Red Ultra-soft Wax/Sealant Foam - This soft, imported foam is ideal for applying the final coat of wax or sealant. The foam works especially well when applying liquid waxes or sealants because it is firm enough to keep the majority of the product on the paint, rather than soaking it up. The red foam has no cut or cleaning ability.

Super Soft Gold Jewelling Foam - The CCS Super Soft Gold Jewelling Pad is made of Lake Country's softest foam. Use the gold pad to apply a very fine polish or glaze as the final step of the polishing process. Jewelling is the term coined for this step because it intensifies gloss and reflectivity, like a jewel. The gold foam pad also works well for wax and sealant application.

**JAF06SE** · 08-15-2012, 02:00 PM

Thanks guys. This helps a lot. I keep forgetting that my brother has a Dewalt rotary that he's had or A long time since back when he use to do a lot of detailing in high school. I may just have to "borrow" it lol. I've used it before and I actually learned to use a polisher with it. Seems crazy that I learned with it seeing how many people are a little testy with them. I may just take a look at some pads for the time being at my local auto stores. I'll prolly request a DA for Christmas this year

lol, save me from having to buy it. Then I'll invest in a nice pad kit or pick them out. I'll read up on those articles by Mike though Bobby. Thanks.

**JAF06SE** · 08-31-2012, 11:28 PM

So I ordered my kit today. It came with the 5 pads plus 2 free red pads in the special offer. The pas I got were 2 orange, 2 green and 1 white. I also bought a 3 pack of grey pads. I picked these cause they seemed to be commonly used among a lot of you guys and by the descriptions they seemed to fit what I would do the most. Is there a pad that is good for removal? Or should I just do it by hand? I've used wool and MF bonnets on my random orbits and they seem to work pretty good. Should I just get a couple or hang on to a couple of the 6" ones to go over my 5.5" pads?