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    How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

    How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach







    So now that ceramic paint coatings have hit the tipping point and went mainstream, one of the most common questions I get is,


    How to I take care of the coating?

    Or in other words,

    How do I wash the car?


    And this is IMPORTANT because unlike the peddlers of hype and false promise, just because you have ANY brand of ceramic coating on your vehicle's paint does NOT mean you can now run your vehicle through a brush style car wash and expect the paint to continue looking fabulous. It will get swirls and scratches. That's the reality of spinning brushes and car paint, coated or not.

    Same goes for the Soft Mop washes and even 100% Hand Car Washes. The ONLY way to preserve the swirl-free finish on a coated car is to do one of the three options below,

    1. Take ownership of the wash process yourself.
    2. Hire a qualified professional detailer to wash your car for you.
    3. Take your vehicle through a touchless car wash and don't let anyone at the end of the wash tunnel dry your car.




    You see it all comes down to how you TOUCH the paint. Touch it with clean, soft materials and do so with care and your coated vehicle will look GREAT for a long time. Touch the paint with things that scratch paint and the coating will get scratched along with the paint.

    There is no such thing as in invisible force field even though yours truly, along with thousands of other car owners, wishes there truly was this type of product.



    Below I will show you how I wash a coated car when I have the time and I want to do EVERYTHING I can, within my control to avoid re-instilling swirls and scratches back into the paint. This is a simple technique that anyone can copy for their own vehicles.


    The technique STARTS with something most of you won't think of but if you received the first edition of my newsletter then you know where I'm going with this....


    Keep reading....


    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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    Re: How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

    Continued....


    You can use a wash mitt as long as you know 100% for sure it's clean and uncontaminated. I do this. But what I wrote previously was,

    Below I will show you how I wash a coated car when I have the time and I want to do EVERYTHING I can, within my control to avoid re-instilling swirls and scratches back into the paint. The word EVERYTHING means instead of using a single wash mitt to wash an entire vehicle I'm going to use about a dozen or so microfiber towels.


    2 Secrets to safely washing a coated car


    1: First secret = 1 towel per panel.
    Think about it? If you wash just one panel and then put that towel aside, you just 100% completely eliminated the chance and risk of simply cross-contaminating. Genius right? If you use a single wash mitt, you can swish that wash mitt around in your bucket of car wash, or even use the 2-bucket method to remove dirt off the mitt before reusing, but you cannot guarantee 100% of any dirt loosened off a previously wash panel is removed. Can't do it. You can hope. You can wish. You can think and dream you've cleaned that mitt but there's no way to truly know. And microfiber is GRABBY. So if you really want to be careful when washing any car, wither it's coated or even waxed, then use one towel per body panel and after using the towel place it in a CLEAN dirty towel bucket to be washed, dried, folded and stored immediately after washing your car so they stay clean and are ready for future wash jobs.


    2: Second secret = ALWAYS inspect your towels before use.
    That was the Pro Tip I shared in my first newsletter. In my opinion, inspecting ANY towel or anything that is going to touch your car's paint is the most important thing you can do. Like my saying goes,

    It takes hours to buff out a car and only seconds to put swirls and scratches into the paint -Mike Phillips


    In the picture below, there is a stack of 12 Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber towels, a quart of BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating Wash and to the right side of the car wash is a Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitts . I love these towels for washing a car using this one-towel-per-panel car wash approach. If you don't want to use this approach then the Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitts are also very good but ONLY if you know 100% they are clean and un-contaminated.

    Also - if you're going to use the microfiber chenille wash mitts, Autogeek sells the good ones, not the cheapie mitts you see everywhere else. The difference is with the mitts we sell - you can wash them and dry them in your washer and dryer and they won't fall apart. The cheapie mitts simply fall apart. When you purchase this style of mitt, get the 4-pack each time you order them and this way you will ALWAYS have clean backup mitts incase you drop your current mitt on the ground or in some other way it become contaminated or tatty. Remember - every time you wash or TOUCH your car's paint the things that touch it MUST be clean and soft otherwise you will put scratches into your car's clearcoat finish and this will happen even if your car has a ceramic coating.



    Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber Towels - BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating Wash - Grey Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt





    Before inspecting and folding any towels - FIRST clean off your workbench or table top. It doesn't do any good to inspect towels on a dirty surface.





    Once your work area is clean, now place your towels fresh out of the dryer on the clean surface for inspection and folding.





    Wash your hands too - always WORK CLEAN!





    Inspect your towels with your eyes and your sense of touch. Be sure to inspect both sides of your towels. Then fold and store in a clean place.





    At a minimum, you will want and need 12 towels to wash your coated car. Order extras - you can never have too many high quality towels.





    Store in a clean place
    If you don't have a clean cupboard to dedicate for towel storage then get some type of storage container that has a lid. Think of your towels as TOOLS. Take care of your tools like a Master Mechanic takes care of their tools.









    Now that we've went over the importance of clean wash media - let's go over the correct order to wash a car.


    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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    Re: How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

    Continued.....

    Washing the car

    Here's my demo car for this article on how to wash a ceramic coated car. This is a 2014 Maserati Sports Coupe that I coated with BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating a few months ago. Now she's dirty.


    2014 Maserati Sports Coupe








    Dirt and topical water spots that has accumulated on the paint and glass....







    Dirty wheels and tires...








    Dunk your towels

    I've already mixed up my car wash solution so I'm going to place all 12 of my clean and inspected microfiber towels into the bucket. I dunk them into the wash solution and just let them soak while I wash the wheels and tires.












    Top Ten Favorite Tools = Grit Guard Universal Detailing Cart

    Here you can see how handy the Grit Guard Universal Detailing Cart is as it gives me a place to store all my tools, brushes and products.

    Most important, with the hole cut out in the top shelf to hold my 5-gallon bucket, when I do go to wash the car I don't have to BEND OVER each time I need to get to the wash bucket. I show this cart in all my classes. I'll explain why at the end of this article.







    Wheels and Tires FIRST

    I know all the big car wax brands usually put out some kind of fluff on their website on how to wash and wax a car so their customer's have a starting point to use their products. Most if them, if not all of them say the same thing when it comes to washing a car.

    Start at the top and work your way down



    That is so wrong. But it's also typical for instructions written by someone that either has zero passion for car detailing or is primarily as salesperson. In all my life and in all my classes as well as any article, book or video I've ever had control over, I share my approach and that is,

    Start first with the wheels and tires.


    Here's why,

    IF - and notice both letters in the word IF are capitalized, IF you normally and regularly keep your wheels and tires clean and I don't have to introduce you to a Speedmaster Wheel Brush or a Wheel Woolies Wheel Brush, then at a minimum it takes you at least 15 minutes to clean and rinse each wheel and tires on your car. Let's do the math.


    15 minutes x 4 wheels and tires = 1 hour


    Now follow me, if you DON'T normally and regularly clean your wheels and tires and you have know idea what a Speedmaster Wheel Brush is or a Wheel Woolies Wheel Brush, (not to mention the other tools I'm going to show you), then my guess is your wheels and tires are neglected and extremely dirty with built-up brake dust and road grime. To really get wheels in this condition clean it's going to take a lot longer than 15 minutes per wheel. In fact you could spend 30 to 45 minutes per wheel to get them as clean as the wheels and tires on my cars.

    So in a perfect car maintenance world, (that's my world), if it's going to take me 1 hour to clean and rinse my wheels and tires this means I DON'T want to wash the car first because this means after washing and then rinsing the car off, the water will be sitting on the car for 1 HOUR while I get on my butt and clean all 4 wheels and tires.


    In that hour - some of the water or more specifically, water drops are going to dry and leave water SPOTS in the paint and on the glass and actually everything. Water spots on paint are one of the WORST types of paint defects there are to remove. In most case you have to machine polish the paint to remove them. If you live where there's some really icky and corrosive junk in your city water or well water then water drops that dry on your car can leave what I term Type II Water Spots and in most cases these will require machine compounding to remove. That's a lot of work and it means you're going to remove some measurable amount of clearcoat paint off your car. All these are negatives and if you start with the wheels and tires first you can simply avoid the entire problem.


    Make sense?


    Now I've been teaching detailing classes for 32 years as I type this in the year 2019 and know some of you are going to say,


    What if I dry the car off?


    That works, you can start at the top and after washing the car, (or truck or suv, etc.,), you can dry off all the water but here's the deal. I also teach people to work smarter not harder in all my classes and here's how that applies when washing your car.

    If you wash and dry the car and then wash the wheels and tires, when you rinse the wheels and tires you're going to get nearby body panels wet again and now you're repeating steps. That is, when you go to dry off body panels a second time you are repeating steps and thus wasting time and energy.

    Go that direction if you want but I'm telling you from experience, the best approach is to simply start with your wheels and tires, get this over with and then start at the top and work your way down the car. Besides avoiding water spots you get the dirtiest part of the wash job over with first and when your give the car a final rinse you'll be able to RE-RINSE the wheels and tires and this is important because while you were washing the vehicle the wheel cleaner and everything it loosened in and around the wheel will POOL to lower parts of the wheel via GRAVITY and you'll have a second opportunity to flush all this junk off.


    Big Picture Detailing

    The order in which you wash your car is relative. That is, it doesn't matter to the car or the process which order you tackle the various areas to be cleaned, what's more important is to have a system in place that gets the car clean while avoiding problems and reduces time, energy and steps.


    That's my approach, use if you like, if you don't - it doesn't matter to me, I'm just the guy that writes in-depth articles about all this car detailing stuff trying to help you..




    Cleaning Wheels & Tires

    For this demo I'm using BLACKFIRE Tire & Wheel cleaner with a few favorite brushes. Pick a brand that you like and trust and repeat these steps.









    Autogeek Knee N' Back Pad

    Note the Autogeek Knee and Back Pad? Not only is this more comfortable to sit on (for 15 minutes or longer), when washing wheels and tires it also keeps your pants (and you) from having to sit in a puddle of water.





    Wheels first and then rinse

    I always wash wheels first but it's not super critical which you clean first. By washing the wheels first and rinsing and then washing the tires, when I go to rinse the tires I have a second chance to rinse the wheels. This helps insure any wheel cleaner and the brake-dust it loosens is flushed thoroughly off the wheels and out of all the nooks and crannies. Later when you rinse the car you'll have a THIRD opportunity to rinse the wheels. I guarantee you - a car washed by Mike Phillips is SUPER CLEAN.







    Speedmaster Wheel Brush

    This brush is so handy for getting the barrel of your car's wheels clean and also around the brake caliper and even behind the spokes.










    With a great wheel cleaner you can get your car's wheel super clean.






    Wheel Woolies Boar's Hair Black Wheel Face Brush

    This is another of my Top 10 Favorite Tools. Love this brush. The bristles are 2" long and not so soft or limp they are useless but not so coarse or stiff they don't clean well. The bristles are the perfect balance of just right for any cleaning job. I also use this brush a lot for engine and engine compartment cleaning.








    Scrubbed wheel ready to rinse...







    BOOM! Now that's a clean Maserati wheel!





    Tire cleaning

    Next I spray the BF Tire and Wheel cleaner onto the tire sidewall.





    Tire cleaning by machine

    Any tire brush will work but I tend to machine scrub all the tires on all the cars I detail. Pictured below is the Mighty Mini with a Cyclo Grey Ultra Soft Upholstery Brush attached to it and this works really well. Now days I use the FLEX Cordless PE14 Rotary Polisher with a Heavy-Duty DA Carpet Brush (Long Bristles) attached to it. Note both tools are cordless so there's no shock hazard when working around water.








    Rinsing Tires

    Note how the water gets on the surrounding body panels - this is what I was talking about above in the section on the order in which to wash your car.






    Best Practice - Clean your brushes immediately

    After washing your wheels and tires RIGHT NOW - rinse off your wheel and tire brushes. They already have cleaner on them from the process so they will wash and rinse off easily. Don't be lazy and let all the gunk that is on and in the bristles dry as this makes cleaning them more difficult and takes longer. Just do it!



    Speedmaster Wheel Brush rinsed off and ready to store until needed again...






    Hand Tire Brush Recommendation
    If you're looking for a good tire scrubbing brush to work by hand, I like this one. There's a science to the bristle length and note how the bristles on this brush are short? This enables you, your hand and your arm to more easily get in there and SCRUB brown tires clean.

    TUF SHINE Tire Brush




    Dedicated Tire Cleaner Recommendation
    If you have really ugly tires, either super brown from year of neglect or some brand of really slimy tire dressing you want to get off, here's the best dedicated tire cleaner.

    The Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner






    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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    Re: How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

    Continued.....


    Washing the body panels

    Okay - now that I have the wheels and tires knocked out, and by the way, I hate washing wheels and tires but it's a very important aspect of "detailing a car" for the final results so having great tools makes the job faster and easier and takes some of the pain out of the job.



    Blast loose dirt off car and soften bonded dirt

    There's a difference between a car you just sprayed with water and a car that's been sitting in Oregon rain all day. That difference is the dirt and road film on the car that's been in the rain all day is going to be soft and easy to wash off. The dirt car that was dry, but has just now been sprayed with water is going to still be somewhat set-up and hard. So if you have the time and the water, and especially if you have a pristine dark or black colored car, then get the car wet... as in REALLY wet and let water do its thing.

    Question: Have you ever sat in a Hot Tub? If so, what happens to your skin after about a half hour? It gets soft and wrinkled. Water is a universal solvent - it breaks things down including you and I and in the context of this article, it softens and loosens dried on dirt and road film.



    Shower Setting
    I start by wetting the car using the shower setting. This is just to get the car and specifically all the dirt and road film on the car wet.







    Jet Setting
    Next I use the Jet setting to blast any loose dirt off the car. Wet, soft dirt will blast off easier than hard dry dirt. Make sense?





    And of course - if you have a pressure washer by all means use it.







    My article on Road Film - Good read - Pictures tell the story

    Road Film - If you drive your car in the rain your car has road film


    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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    Re: How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

    Continued....


    ***Warning - Lots of Washing Pictures Below***

    Lots of pictures so even the lowest common denominator among us that tend NOT to read can look at the pictures and figure out the story



    As soon as I can get to it I will make a video sharing even more tips and techniques for exactly how to move the towel over a body panel.

    Washing a car, one panel at a time using lots of microfiber towels


    The secret to success of the approach is to ONLY use one towel per body panel. In case you're unsure, a body panel is a dedicated panel or section of a carl For example, each one of these is a single body panel.

    Hood
    Roof
    Fender
    Door
    Tailgate
    Side of truck bed


    You start at the top and work your way down and you only use a towel ONE TIME to wash ONE BODY PANEL and the you place that towel in a secondary bucket called your Dirty Towel Bucket.

    NOTE: Your dirty towel bucket should be clean. You are going to place your NICE towels into it. It's called the Dirty Towel Bucket not because the bucket is dirty but to designate it for towels you have already used and are not going to use again. After washing the car you're going to immediately take the bucket and all the towels inside of it to the washing machine and wash and dry them. You are putting into place a method to the madness because by reading this article you are finally taking REAL ownership of the car wash process and the maintenance of your car's coated finish.


    Next you rinse the section you just washed and then grab a fresh, clean towel out of your car wash solution bucket and wash another panel. After washing another panel, place this towel in your Dirty Towel Bucket and then rinse that panel.

    Repeat this process until you have wash each body panel. Save the back of your car and the front of your car for last. I would also wait to wash the lowest portions of your car like running boards, air damns, fender lips and mud flaps for last. And for these areas I would NOT use my really nice microfiber towels or wash mitts but use your older or tatty towels and mitts for these areas. Your tatty towels and mitts should be clean, it's just they are not of high enough quality for painted body panels like the hood. The BIG PICTURE being to get 100% of your car clean without contaminating your nice towels and mitts doing stupid stuff.

    Make sense? Good. Let's start.


    Washing the roof and all the side glass
    While you only use one towel per body panel the side glass on your vehicle is NOT scratch-sensitive like your car's paint. You can figure how what works best for and your vehicle but for me, I try to wash the entire roof and then wash the windshield, back window and side glass all at one time and then rinse.

    Looks like this,


    Grab a microfiber towel out of your wash bucket. Remember these have been soaking in the soap solution since before you washed the wheels and tires.








    Starting at the top
    This is me washing the passenger side of the roof and at the same time taking a picture using my trusty, dusty Canon T6i - not bad huh? I photographed this entire project. Everyone here at Autogeek is always so busy that I have to play the part of my own photographer.



    I start in the MIDDLE and work my way outward. I only make one or two passes as I work from the middle to the outside of the panel. If you move the towel or a mitt OVER AND OVER A PANEL this is called SCRUBBING - not washing and you will loosen the dirt on the panel and then rub it into the paint and cause swirls and scratches. Think about it!
















    Now I've moved to the driver's side and repeat, starting in the middle and working my way to the outside of the roof.







    Done with the passenger side of the roof





    I've moved to the driver's side and have flipped my towel over to the clean side.






    Repeat - starting at the middle of the roof and making minimum front to back wipes so as not to scrub the paint.



















    I have finished washing the driver's side of the roof in this last picture....




    Now I quickly wash all the glass....

















    Here's towel #1 going into my CLEAN dirt towel bucket.








    And now I'm rinsing the roof and all the side glass....











    Chances are VERY GOOD by using this technique the roof is clean and I have not instilled any swirls and scratches.





    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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    Re: How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

    Continued....


    Next up the hood....

    I grab a clean microfiber towel out of my car wash solution bucket and like the roof, standing on the side of the car, start in the MIDDLE and making only a few passes over this side of the panel work my way to the outside.









    See how I started in the middle and then worked my way to the outside ONLY making a few passes. When it comes to a freshly coated car, and even a freshly waxed car, the dirt and road film does not want to STICK to the paint. This means you only need to lightly agitate an area and then move on. Don't rub and rub and rub on a section of paint as you WILL loosen the dirt and then you WILL rub it into the paint. You will only have yourself to blame for any swirls and scratches. Think.





    Now I have moved to the driver's side and repeat by starting in the middle and working my way to the outside ONLY making a few passes.















    Towel #2 going into the dirty towel bucket.





    Then rinse...





    Oh yeah.... one handed photography with a fill size DSL camera...








    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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    Re: How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

    Continued....

    Grabbing a fresh, clean microfiber towel from my car wash solution bucket






    Then move to the last horizontal panel, the trunk lid. The trunk lid is small on this car so I'm just going to stand at the back and start from the glass and work my way to the outside.















    Towel #3 going into the dirty towel bucket.







    And rinsing....








    Mike Phillips
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    Re: How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

    Continued....

    The driver's side and passenger side vertical panels....

    For the vertical panels I used ONE towel for each panel. Because this is a 4-door car, I used 4 towels on the passenger side to wash,

    1. Front fender
    2. Front door
    3. Back door
    4. Back fender


    If this seems extreme modify the number of towels you use. Here's the deal though - it's easier to wash and dry towels than it is to machine buff and coat paint.


    Grab a fresh towel...






    Wash the front passenger side fender.





    Towel #4 going into the dirty towel bucket.





    Grab a fresh towel - wash the passenger side front door.










    Towel #5 going into the dirty towel bucket.





    Grab a fresh towel...





    Wash the passenger side back door.





    Towel #6 going into the dirty towel bucket.





    Grab a fresh towel and wash the passenger side back fender....







    Towel #7 going into the dirty towel bucket.





    And rinse....







    Also - as you work around the car continue to re-rinse the car as this will keep any water from drying until you're completely finished washing and rinsing the car and ready to dry the car.





    Move to the other side - grab a fresh towel....






    Wash the driver's side rear fender....







    Towel #8 going into the dirty towel bucket.







    Grab a fresh towel and wash the driver's side rear door...







    Towel #9 going into the dirty towel bucket.





    Grab a fresh towel and wash the driver's side front door...






    Place the towel in the dirty towel bucket (no picture)






    Grab a fresh towel - wash the driver's side front fender....











    Towel #11 going into the dirty towel bucket.





    Then rinse the driver's side of the car...











    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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    Re: How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

    Continued.....


    Grab a fresh towel and wash the front of the car...












    Towel #12 going into the dirty towel bucket.





    Here's another place the Wheel Woolies Boar's Hair Black Wheel Brush comes in handing and that's for washing intricate and hard to reach areas like front grills.














    Then rinse....












    Then grab a fresh towel and wash the back of the car.....












    Towel #13 going into the dirty towel bucket.





    Then rinse the back of the car....






    And finally the final rinse...











    Drying the car

    After the final rinse - carefully dry the car using your favorite microfiber drying towel or use an air blower to blow the standing water off the car. I usually use a combination of Guzzler Waffle Weave drying towels plus a car dryer like the FLEX or Metro-Vac Master Blaster.



    And that my friends is how to carefully wash a car with a ceramic paint coating while avoiding putting in any swirls or scratches during the process.



    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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    Re: How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

    Continued....

    Last step - wash and dry your TOOLS.

    Remember I said that quality microfiber towels are like a Master Mechanic's tools? It's true. If you take care of your towels your towels will take care of you. Or more specifically, your towels will take care of your car's paint.

    When you're done drying off your car, and likely moving it into the garage, next put away the garden hose and all your tools and then take your dirty towel bucket with your lightly used microfiber towels and pour the entire bucket into your washing machine and wash the towels.





    At this point all of the towels have CAR WASH solution IN THEM so you really don't need too much microfiber detergent to get them clean. Follow the directions on the label for your favorite microfiber detergent and then wash and dry your towels.






    All dry and ready to fold and store...






    THEN - follow your new BEST PRACTICE


    Clean your work area




    Place your freshly washed and dried towels on your clean table top or workbench top.




    Inspect your towels and fold them...







    Store them in a clean place so they stay clean and thus stay SAFE for your ceramic coated vehicle.










    I hope the above helps.... if after reading this you have any questions please feel encouraged to JOIN the forum and post your question to this thread. I really prefer to answer questions on the forum where tens of thousand's of people will read and benefit from the exchange of information than I do to type out in-depth answer where only one set of eyeballs will ever see them i.e. e-mail, phone messaging and/or Facebook messages.



    Click here to join the AutogeekOnline Detailing Discussion Forum



    And if you really love detailing as a passion or a business - then get yourself signed-up for one of my car detailing classes. If you think the above article is DETAILED using only pictures and formatted text - imagine what it's like to work one-on-one on real cars. I literally do a BRAIN DUMP in all my classes. Not only will you learn a LOT but you make new friends and have a lot of fun too. Plus figure out exactly which tools, pads, coatings and other products you like best instead of experimenting or learning from trial-n-error.



    2-Day Roadshow Classes



    Our Roadshow classes are all across America! Map

    Price = $895.00 - Sign-up 30 days before class get a $100.00 Autogeek Store Credit.




    3-Day Detailing Bootcamp Classes at Autogeek



    These are hands-down the BEST classes because we have total control over the training garage and the cars you get to work on.

    Our 3-day classes are held here in Stuart, Florida - 30 miles North of the West Palm Beach International Airport Map

    Price = $1,495.00 - Sign-up 30 days before class get a $100.00 Autogeek Store Credit.




    2-Day Boat Detailing Classes



    Our 2-day, 100% hands-on boat detailing classes are the ONLY established boat detailing classes that are documented online. You work on real boats from 7:30am to 5:30pm for 2 full days. These classes are held here at Autogeek's headquarters in Stuart, Florida. Map

    Price = $950.00 - Sign-up 30 days before class get a $100.00 Autogeek Store Credit.


    I hope to see you at a future class!


    p.s.

    If you're not getting my newsletter - click the link below and send me an e-mail and I'll add you to my list. The Mike Phillips newsletter is focused on techniques, not sales. I know if I do a great job of sharing proven techniques with my audience the sales will come naturally.


    Click to send me an e-mail and sign-up for my newsletter


    On Autogeek.com


    Quick and easy shopping list to get any of the things I showcased in this article. Click on the item and it will take you to the item on the Autogeek.com store page.


    12 Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber towels

    BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating Wash

    Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitts

    Grit Guard Universal Detailing Cart

    Speedmaster Wheel Brush

    Wheel Woolies Wheel Brush

    Autogeek Knee and Back Pad

    Mighty Mini

    Cyclo Grey Ultra Soft Upholstery Brush

    FLEX Cordless PE14 Rotary Polisher

    Heavy-Duty DA Carpet Brush (Long Bristles)

    TUF SHINE Tire Brush

    The Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner

    3 Pack The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave Towels, 20 x 40 inches

    FLEX BW-18 Cordless Blower Complete Set

    Metro Blaster SideKick

    Metro Master Blaster 8hp Revolution with 30 foot hose

    The Grit Guard Insert - Goes inside a 5-gallon bucket - traps dirt below towels

    5 Gallon Wash Bucket Combo - includes Grit Guard Insert and sealable lid

    BLACKFIRE Microfiber Cleaner & Restorer- 1 gallon




    Black is a tough color to keep looking great but it starts with careful washing





    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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