Gel Coat Oxidization Removal - How much to charge?

**Sailfish** · 01-29-2013, 02:43 PM

Doug,

Mike asked me to chime in on this,

27 foot boat out of the water on a trailer? Or on a rack / boatel?

If it is just wax no compound I would charge 15 a foot. That would include a wash, hand wipe dry and wax. I use Collinite 925, make sure you mix it well, ( I pour off into a bowl and mix it or in some cases you have lumps in the wax).

Now if it need compounding you need to add to the price,

Light compounding on a 27 footer is about $21.00 per ft. (this includes Wax)

Heavy compounding on a 27 footer is about $26.00 per ft. (this includes Wax)

Now this is for a simple center console boat. If you have a cabin or cuddy then I add about $4.00 per ft for that also.

Motor does the cowl need wax (yes), and the shaft (yes). Outboard only $10.00 -$20.00 depends on if they need to be touched up any.

Now how to tell if you need to compound.

I take the bottle of wax and put in on the side of the boat (bottom of bottle to side of boat) If I can see the print on the bottle clearly then wax only.

If it is hazed but I can still make out the bottle and the print Light compounding. (very very light chalk on hand to none)

If I can not get a reflection or very poor reflection, chalky hand when wiped over surface then heavy compound.

Rotary and wool at a low speed with lots of product, gel coat sucks up product. 2' x 2' sections and take your time. Work out of the sun and what ever product you use make sure that you wipe it off well before you wax.

A note on Collinite wax also work small area at a time 2' x 2', it wipes off easier that way.

Good luck, a car will fell like a walk in the park after you do this boat.

Mike Phillips · 01-29-2013, 02:53 PM

Originally Posted by Sailfish

Doug,

Mike asked me to chime in on this,

Thanks Paul... you da man!

Originally Posted by Sailfish

Good luck, a car will feel like a walk in the park after you do this boat.

Priceless info and this last comment is oh so true...

Thanks again Paul...

**Always Learning** · 01-29-2013, 09:16 PM

The people here on this forum are the best!

I'm getting the message loud and clear - rotary with wool pads!

David: Great tip on doing a test spot to show what can be done with the one step and let the owner judge from themselves.

If it needs compounding - and he's willing to pay for the extra step, I'll look into a rotary. Otherwise, the feeling I'm getting is he's not willing to pay enough to make it worthwhile for me to pick up a rotary just for a one step so I may have to give it a pass. (I'd like one anyway but can't justify it at this time - unless I can find used.)

Mike - I've always looked up to and appreciate you taking the time to help me out.

Paul - amazing information, it's really giving me a perspective on how enormous this job really is. (love the website btw)

Sorry not much info about the job - boat is indoors in a warehouse.

More info to come Thursday.

Cheers!

**Sailfish** · 01-29-2013, 10:41 PM

Doug,

Good luck and you are right you can always say no, some people just don't know what the jobs we do cost to do right. You can always pick up a cheap rotary or rent one at a tool rental place for this job, then invest in a good rotary from AG with your proceeds.

Paul

**rmagnus** · 01-29-2013, 11:19 PM

Paul (Sailfish) awesome info. I've seen your posts before on boat detailing but I thought I'd finaly say thank you.

Doug eEven picking up a Harbor Freight Rotary (cheap $40) it will get you thrugh this detail. Get a few pads and remember rake to clean the pads assuming you don't have a pad cleaner. Guess in a pinch a screwdriver will work but be careful very careful if you go this route.

Last suggestion is maybe borrowing a rotary buffer if you know someone in your area.

**Bates Detailing** · 01-29-2013, 11:45 PM

I like using the 3m white cutting pads and rotary with 3m super duty if it is highly oxidized - that will cut amazingly but keep the buffer moving and be weary of the edges of the pad. I tape ALOT when buffing out boats. Also, there will be many areas that will need to be done by hand to do a thorough job. The hull will be a bit tricky your first time and you may be sore after polishing it - very awkward angles. I like to wear a face-shield when buffing the hull when out of water - cause those odd angles will throw compound in your face. All of the tips I can think of for now that I didn't read about - Good Luck man!

**Bates Detailing** · 01-30-2013, 12:23 AM

Here are a couple spur of the moment vids we took one day - maybe they can help you. This were eventually meant to get edited - so there are a few dumb moments lol. But maybe they can show you the difference between gel coat and clear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slmfmQh6CUo - Step I

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcKDE7-BOj8 - Step II

Step III

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMMhHGfzKVE

Mike Phillips · 01-30-2013, 07:23 AM

Just to add for the OP or for anyone reading this into the future that is going to get into buffing out large boats using rotary buffers with wool pads...

At a minimum get a pad cleaning spur.

IF you want to work faster, work cleaner and avoid tiring yourself out, get a pad washer.

As your pad gets caked-up with dead, oxidized gel-coat and spent product and if you don't somehow clean this off the face of your buffing pad, then adding fresh product will dilute the cutting strength of the fresh product and the residue you leave on the hull will be a lot more gummy and a lot more difficult to wipe off. This will tire you out.

First thing a person needs to learn is how to clean their wool pad using a pad cleaning spur

Perfect!

This thread shows some pad washers...

Grit Guard Pad Washer Cart

**DCOutdoors** · 01-31-2013, 05:46 AM

Originally Posted by rmagnus

Guess in a pinch a screwdriver will work but be careful very careful if you go this route.

While the spur is best and something you should have if you're going to do more than a little buffing with a wool pad, a heavier zip tie works pretty well also! Form it into a tear drop shape and use it the same as a spur.

Mike Phillips · 01-31-2013, 08:37 AM

Using a screwdriver is what I call that the Caveman Method...

It works and I've used a screwdriver when I've had nothing else. I've also used whatever was closest to my hand, like an open end box wrench. Basically anything you can cram into the rotating fiber to kick out spent residue and removed paint.

If you're buffing out one boat one time then the caveman method works but in my honest opinion I think it damages your wool pad more than the actual tool made for this job and that is the simple wool pad cleaning spur.

If you're going to buff as a hobby or for money at any level, then when you can invest in a real spur. It cleans the pad better than a screwdriver and it also does a better job of fluffing up the fibers. Just my two cents...

Here's where you can get one... and it's only 8 bucks...

Lake Country Wool Pad Spur

Pad Cleaning Spur - The best tool for the job

Works but it's kind of the caveman technique