doing a detail for a buddy and want it right

[hydro556]

I am doing a late model Jeep Wrangler for a good friend and want it to look awesome, so I am seeking advide from the experts. It is an exterior only and I have the following tools/products. Makita 6040, Random orbital and/or forced rotary. LC orange, white and black pads as well as wool. XMT 360, Mothers california gold wax, several Meguiars Marine products(will these be good for the fiberglass top and flares?), mothers clay and QD.

I was planning to use the 360 on an orange pad with the Mak set to RO. Is this the best first step? RO or forced rotary and what speed?

Then the black pad for the LSP(mothers Cal Gold, I guess), unless the Meguiars Marine wax would do a better job on the Wrangler.

Then use the Megs Marine stuff for the hardtop and fender flares?


Guys, pls critique my process and let me know if there is a better way. I need to get a better LSP but havent placed my next order yet. Is the Meguiars Marine stuff any good for the Jeeps body panels or would I be better off to just use the OTC Mothers wax that came with my clay kit? Is there another OTC product that is substantially better that I should go get? I am probably going to order Pinn SigII or Soveran when I order but that wont help since I am doing the Jeep tomorrow. Also, should I let the 360 "cure" before applying my LSP(whichever route I end up going) or can I apply the wax right after applying the 360? Last question, I will apply the 360 with the Makita, should I use a MF by hand to buff it off, or use a polishing pad on the Makita?


Sorry for so many questions but I know his expectations are high and I dont want to disappoint. Thanks.

[matteo86]

I am doing a late model Jeep Wrangler for a good friend and want it to look awesome, so I am seeking advide from the experts. It is an exterior only and I have the following tools/products. Makita 6040, Random orbital and/or forced rotary. LC orange, white and black pads as well as wool. XMT 360, Mothers california gold wax, several Meguiars Marine products(will these be good for the fiberglass top and flares?), mothers clay and QD.

I was planning to use the 360 on an orange pad with the Mak set to RO. Is this the best first step? RO or forced rotary and what speed?

Then the black pad for the LSP(mothers Cal Gold, I guess), unless the Meguiars Marine wax would do a better job on the Wrangler.

Then use the Megs Marine stuff for the hardtop and fender flares?


Guys, pls critique my process and let me know if there is a better way. I need to get a better LSP but havent placed my next order yet. Is the Meguiars Marine stuff any good for the Jeeps body panels or would I be better off to just use the OTC Mothers wax that came with my clay kit? Is there another OTC product that is substantially better that I should go get? I am probably going to order Pinn SigII or Soveran when I order but that wont help since I am doing the Jeep tomorrow. Also, should I let the 360 "cure" before applying my LSP(whichever route I end up going) or can I apply the wax right after applying the 360? Last question, I will apply the 360 with the Makita, should I use a MF by hand to buff it off, or use a polishing pad on the Makita?


Sorry for so many questions but I know his expectations are high and I dont want to disappoint. Thanks.

Umm im not to sure of the rotary to be honest (i only use PC). XMT360 to restore some nice shine assuming the paint does not need much correction else you will require a more abbrasive swril remover. One thing i spotted was your using of the "wax" that came with the clay system. I had bought the mothers clay system before i set eyes on autogeek..and it came with a PRE WAX cleaner. Just thought you might want to double check?

[hydro556]

I went and picked up the Meguiars clay kit and dont like it. It seems the mothers clay was more effective. I have been getting an order together to get some better clay but am not ready yet, so I will have to make do with what I have for now. The Megs clay just doesnt seem to remove contaminants very well, any tips?

[hydro556]

I tried a couple of the products I mentioned on the hardtop in small sections. They didnt seem to make it look any better than the XMT360, so I ended up just using the 360 with a black pad and buffed the whole hardtop with it. Turned out great. I am doing the engine compartment now(my buddy decided to go ahead and go for the complete detail). I guess I will just use the 360 for the whole Jeep since it seems to do such a great job. I dont want to get too aggressive to get the swirls out(since it isnt my vehicle) so I will just do what I can with the 360 and an LC orange pad. I still have to determine which LSP to use.


On a side note, what purpose do the "cleaner waxes" that come with the Mothers and Megs clay kit serve? Are they worth the extra step?

[Mobile detail]

I tried a couple of the products I mentioned on the hardtop in small sections. They didnt seem to make it look any better than the XMT360, so I ended up just using the 360 with a black pad and buffed the whole hardtop with it. Turned out great. I am doing the engine compartment now(my buddy decided to go ahead and go for the complete detail). I guess I will just use the 360 for the whole Jeep since it seems to do such a great job. I dont want to get too aggressive to get the swirls out(since it isnt my vehicle) so I will just do what I can with the 360 and an LC orange pad. I still have to determine which LSP to use.


On a side note, what purpose do the "cleaner waxes" that come with the Mothers and Megs clay kit serve? Are they worth the extra step?

I believe they are designed to remove the minor marring/hazeyness caused by claying. You would normal polish after you clay to remove this, but most average consumers who by this kit would apply wax right after. At least with the wax the kits provided, find impurfections will be removed. Sorry for the spelling, I'm typing on my phone.good luck, feel free to pm me if you have any questions!