Detailing Anxiety! - Picking Products for New Car Care

[NIS240SHU]

Hey guys,

We just bought a new 2012 Mazda 3 iGT Hatchback in Graphite Mica this week and I'm looking forward to keeping it in great shape over the coming years.

So far I've purchased the following items that will touch the paint:

- XMT 360 Spray Wax
- CarPro IronX Paste x2
- CarPro IronX Spray
- Pinnacle XMT Clay Bundle
- Various microfiber towels from Autogeek
- PC 7424XP with various LC 5.5" CCS pads

This car is a daily driver for my wife and will accumulate about 26k miles/year. I intend to wash the car every week as the weather allows here in NJ. For the winter months, I think my only option may be the local do-it-yourself pressure wash place and maybe a waterless wash after that.

So far the car has received one wash from me. I had the dealer give me the car unwashed so as to prevent any damage. Of course the car's paint looks to be pristine, but there have been some bird bombs already, which I've gotten to quickly with some QD and microfiber.

What are your suggestions for protecting our new baby? I'm attracted to the Optimum, Wolfgang, Menzerna, Prima, Duragloss, Collinite and Pinnacle XMT lines.

I'd like to pick a sealer and a prep product below such as PO85RD or other similar product.

Also, will Duragloss AquaWax work well to maintain any of these between washes?

Thanks!

Helder

[ReflectiveAuto]

Sweet...I think that is the color of a Mazda 3 HB I did full detail today.

[stibuki]

Welcome and congratulations on your new ride from a fellow New Jersey native.

First off I can tell you my fall/winter prep is somewhat different than my spring/summer prep. Lets concentrate on the fall/winter in the north east as by spring you will be much more informed and most likely be ready to try some different things. Since you have them already I will try and include some of the products above.

I will only deal with the exterior for now. There are other solutions that work just as good but I will outline one that I have used on my daily drivers for the past 3 years that lasts the whole winter and then some excluding the IronX.

This is all assuming the paint is in very good to excellent condition. If not you would want to polish with some more aggressive methods replacing step 5.

1. Through wash with something that can strip the paint work nice and clean. My new favorite is CG Citrus higher concentration as directed.

2. Pinnacle clay or a speedy suffice prep towel. I would recommend the towel as it is much quicker but the clay will be fine. Be sure to use plenty of lube and dry car when done.

3. CarPro IronX then wash again.

4.Tape up all trim bits that you don't want the pad to touch.

5. DG 501/106 mixed 4 to 1 with the PC and a white pad if the paint is in very good to excellent condition. This will cleanse the paint, remove minor defects and you will be surprised how dirty the pad gets for a new car.

6. DG 105/106 again 4 to 1 mix with the PC and a gray pad.

7. Collnite #845 as a topper adds a nice warm glow with the PC and a gray pad but I prefer by hand with a microfiber applicator. (Optional)

8. Apply a spritz of DG AquaWax and buff to finish it off. (Optional)

A durable and cost effective solution.

I assume you want to do some jeweling with the 85RD? IMO...I would skip the PO85RD as it's a daily driver and not worth the extra effort. Only really worth it if you intend to maintain a show car finish and thats next to impossible on a DD vehicle. If you are looking for correction there are other polishes better suited depending on the condition of your paint.

AquaWax is best suited as a booster to your existing coat of wax/sealant. Great way amp up the gloss after a wash also when you don't have time to do a proper wax/sealant job. For between wash maintenance you would be better off with some DG Clean and Shine or a quick detailer. A waterless wash if it is to dirty for a quick detailer.

If you live in North Jersey and would like some help shoot me a PM.

[Vegas Transplant]

What are your suggestions for protecting our new baby? I'm attracted to the Optimum, Wolfgang, Menzerna, Prima, Duragloss, Collinite and Pinnacle XMT lines.

I'd like to pick a sealer and a prep product below such as PO85RD or other similar product.

Also, will Duragloss AquaWax work well to maintain any of these between washes?

Thanks!

Helder

Congrats on the new DD!

All of the above product lines produce excellent results.

AquaWax is a great choice...find something you like and use it often.

Happy detailing...

[BobbyG]

Congratulations on your new car and the best of luck!

If you follow a regimented maintenance plan a a new car can keep that new appearance for years to come. Sticking with the simple steps below will ensure your car looks its best..

Basic steps in order are:

• Wash
• Clay
• Paint Correction & Polish
• Seal
• Wax

Once the finish is washed and clayed it should be inspected to determine the next course of action. If the finish as few or no scratches or other like defects then a cleaning is in order. Even the paint it new it still needs a thorough cleaning before it's sealed and waxed. Use a quality paint cleaner. These products will remove old waxes, sealants, oxidation, embedded grime, or stains.

Once the finish preparation is complete then it's time for a sealant. I like sealants as they bond to the finish leaving a film of long lasting protection. Many here including myself typically lay down 2 coats of a quality sealant especially heading into a long hard New England winter...

Sealants I use and therefore recommend.

Sealants

• Menzerna Power Lock
• Prima Hydro Sealant
• Four Star Sealant
• Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant
• Klasse High Gloss Sealant
• Ultima Paint Guard Plus
• Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent
• Duragloss 105 TPP
• Optimum Opti-Seal
• Sonus SFX-4 Sealant

Something else to think about is perhaps one of the new hard coating like Optimum Opti-Coat, CarPro CQuartz Ceramic Quartz or Gtechniq C1 Crystal Lacquer.

Application:Optimum Coatings

As an added booster a complete wipe-down after washing with Duragloss Aquawax . Duragloss makes some great products and their sealants provide superb gloss with outstanding protection..

Some additional product recommendations you might enjoy..

Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Meguiar’s Clay
Compound - PG 1000 – PowerGloss Compound (POS34A)
Polish - PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (PO203)
Finishing Polish - SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA)
1-Step - Duragloss 501
Sealant -Duragloss 105 TPP
Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent
Wax - Collinite 845
Spray Wax -Optimum Spray Car Wax
Tire Cleaner - Meguiar's Super Degreaser
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Trim - Ultima Tire and Trim Guard
Wheel Cleaner - Meguiar's Wheel Brightener
Wheel Protectant -Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner
Glass Treatment - Aquapel
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean
Interior Protectant - Meguiar’s M40

[Shortspark]

What Bobby said! Follow this and the products he recommended and you are good for the life of your car.

[blingbling]

Excellent advice above!

I bought a car recently, and if I had known about the new semi-permanent, scratch resistant, anti-static coating systems (Optimum Opti-Coat, CarPro CQuartz, GTechniq various) before I bought a pile of sealants and other stuff, I would definitely have done it.

Worth considering, unless you enjoy the ritual polishing and sealing your car.

The other thing you should check out before it gets too cold to practice, is ONR (rinseless wash). If done correctly, even with one bucket, I think it can be safer than a traditional two bucket wash. This may allow you to wash the car in the winter.

If I could do it over again for my new car, this is what I would do. Find a pro to prep and opti-coat the paint, trim and wheels. Someone who's done it many times. It's a bit of a waste to buy all the gear, get practice, etc. if you're gonna coat it. ONR washes every 1-2 weeks, with Ultima Waterless Wash Plus (buy the concentrate) for QD-type touchups in between. Tuf shine for the tires.

[NIS240SHU]

Thanks for all the replies!

Stibuki, thanks for your post as well as incorporating some of the products I've already purchased.

One that I forgot to mention is Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo. The Chemical Guys Citrus Wash...is the red the one you're referring to?

Should I do the wash before coating with Dawn or the CG, then switch to the Pinnacle Shampoo for regular washes?

The Duragloss products seem like a great option along with the Collinite 845. If I go that route, what pad would you recommend for the DG 501/601 step, taking into consideration the fact that the car is new and the paint is nearly perfect?

As for the PO85RD, my intent was a very fine polish to remove any very minor flaws, then go right to the sealant.

Bobby, thanks for sharing your favorites again! You mentioned I may only need a paint cleaner before the sealant or coating. What are some recommendations for this type of product? What pads do I use?

Blingbling, I'll definitely keep the coatings like Opti-Coat 2.0 in mind. Also, at first I had a total mental block to waterless washes, but I think I'm warming up to it. I'll get some ONR in my shopping cart to try it out.

As for someone else doing the coating, not gonna happen. I have a fierce dedication to do-it-yourself. I'm not completely new to detailing, but it's been a while. My dad owned a body shop he's now retired from. I would help wet sand, buff and polish cars with our DeWalt rotary after the paintwork was out of the booth. I still have it and will be using it on our 1999 Civic with over 205,000 miles on it. Major oxidation and neglect on that car.

Guys, keep the ideas coming! Thanks again!

Helder

[stibuki]

Thanks for all the replies!

Stibuki, thanks for your post as well as incorporating some of the products I've already purchased.

One that I forgot to mention is Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo. The Chemical Guys Citrus Wash...is the red the one you're referring to?

No not the Red it's Citrus Wash Clear at 2oz per gallon as a paint work cleanser. Pinnacle will be fine for your maintenance washes. Not sure if a lower dilution rate will produce the same results with Pinnacle as I have never used it for that purpose.

Should I do the wash before coating with Dawn or the CG, then switch to the Pinnacle Shampoo for regular washes?

I would skip the Dawn. some use it with good results but in my experience it tends to dry out the rubber bits. Yes Pinnacle will be fine for maintance washes.

The Duragloss products seem like a great option along with the Collinite 845. If I go that route, what pad would you recommend for the DG 501/601 step, taking into consideration the fact that the car is new and the paint is nearly perfect?

Nearly perfect paint, I would find the worst condition part of the car and do a test or two. For #501 white is usually my go to pad. Like I said for a new car you will be floored how dirty the pad gets. 501 is really good cleaner.

As for the PO85RD, my intent was a very fine polish to remove any very minor flaws, then go right to the sealant.

The #501 has some cutting ability in it so you might find out thats all you need to remove some very minor defects with the right pad choice.

Enjoy you new ride!

[BobbyG]

Thanks for all the replies!


Bobby, thanks for sharing your favorites again! You mentioned I may only need a paint cleaner before the sealant or coating. What are some recommendations for this type of product? What pads do I use?

Guys, keep the ideas coming! Thanks again!

Helder

Hi Helder

Cleaning the finish before applying a sealant ensures that any polishing residue, oils, etc are removed. There are several ways to accomplish this. CarPro Eraser, Mineral Spirits, Isopropyl Alcohol and water mixture.

Foam pads vary in density. Some are used for compounding and polishing, others work well for applying glazes, sealants, and waxes..

If you're referring to the dual action pads I prefer the 5 1/2" size pads.

• Lake Country Flat Pads

Foam Pads

Yellow Cutting Foam - Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all-around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Gray Finishing Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.