Using Meguiars Ultimate Compound by hand?

[05RLS2]

I tried using some of the Meguiars Ultimate Compound by hand on a junk test pannel that I try new products on before actually touching a vehicle. To get my pannel all light scratched and swirled up I ran a swish broom over it. I thoroughly washed the pannel before using the product, so there was no chance of any dirt left behind. Anyways, the UC did a great job at removing the scratches and swirls by hand. But after wiping the product off, I can still see some light hazing and scratches under the Brinkman that are going the same direction as I was working the product. I used some Griots Pre Wax Cleanser on the area, just incase it was streaking from the product, but the hazing still remained. There's no sun now to do a true test, but if it's visible under the Brinkman I am sure day time results will show it even more.

I used the yellow Pinnacle foam applicators, http://www.autogeek.net/pinfoamwaxap1.html, and primed the applicator by putting some product on the pad and spreading it across it where it was covering the pores of the foam but not clogging them. Then I started working in the product, a little lightly the first pass or so to spread it, then increasing it and then putting some passion behind the pad. I did this for 5 or 6 passes or so. For the last couple of passes I lightened up on the pressure. All of this was done going one direction using overlapping passes in around an 8" x 5" area on an older Saturn SC2 coupe red door pannel

I folowed the Mike Phillips guide as mentioned other than putting the product on the surface. How is it that many people can get LSP results with this the UC, even on darker vehicles? What am I doing wrong here? Am I expecting too much from Ultimate Compound alone being LSP ready by hand? If I can't get this little area by hand looking good, I am a little nervous now about using this with the 7424. Any tips to get this finish LSP ready looking with UC alone by hand?

[bill57]

Ultimate compound is great because it cuts without leaving "as much" hazing as say Megs. #2. And on some colors under "normal" light (that Brinkman is going to show things that aren't normally seen by a casual look), you might get away with going directly to your LSP. But it is a rubbing compound that cuts, and as such should be followed by a lesser cut polish before the LSP.

[HeavyMetal]

I've used UC and UP by hand in the past and was never really satisfied with the results, except around door handles. I still use it by hand for that. And, by machine they do a great job .

[Mike Phillips]

I folowed the Mike Phillips guide as mentioned other than putting the product on the surface. How is it that many people can get LSP results with this the UC, even on darker vehicles? What am I doing wrong here? Am I expecting too much from Ultimate Compound alone being LSP ready by hand?

If I can't get this little area by hand looking good, I am a little nervous now about using this with the 7424.


Any tips to get this finish LSP ready looking with UC alone by hand?

A couple of things...

UC works great by hand and the results you're producing would be worse using a lessor abrasive technology. The idea is to use a less aggressive product and repeat the procedure after the aggressive product and you have to use something that has the abiltity to abrade. Like Ultimate Polish, or SwirlX or even ScratchX

One thing I aways type on forums is this, it takes more skill to work by hand than it does by machine. You can get perfect results by machine because you have equal pruessure applied over the entire face of a buffing pad and the machine uses a consistent, uniform motion. You can say that about the human hand.

You can get very good resutls by hand and after you apply a coat of wax actually achieve visualy perfect results. But it's always going to be faster and easier to do the same job by machine.

Sounds like you're ready to move up to machine to me...

Do some testing by machine next but you're still going to want and need a less aggressive follow-up products like a light polish or an ultra light polish.

From this artice,

Word Definitions - Compounds, Polishes, Glazes, Paint Cleaners and Waxes

Light Polish
A liquid or paste that uses some type of abrasive technology to cut or abrade the paint but is less aggressive than a true medium polish. Depending upon the abrasive technology and the application method and material, some light polishes can remove down to #2500 grit sanding marks while still finishing out LSP ready. Topcoat hardness is an important factor that affects a light polish's effectiveness at removing below surface defects.

Most light polishes are dedicated products in that their function is primarily to abrade the paint. For this reason, after the light polishing step further steps may be required. This could include another final polishing step depending upon the results after using the light polish and the expectations for the end results. At a minimum, the paint should be sealed with a wax, paint sealant or coating.


Ultra Light Polish
A liquid or paste that uses some type of abrasive technology to cut or abrade the paint but is less aggressive than a true light polish. Depending upon the abrasive technology and the application method and material, some ultra light polishes can remove down to #2500 grit sanding marks while still finishing out LSP ready. Topcoat hardness is an important factor that affects an ultra light polish's effectiveness at removing below surface defects.

Most ultra light polishes are dedicated products in that their function is primarily to abrade the paint. For this reason, after the ultra light polishing step at a minimum, the paint should be sealed with a wax, paint sealant or coating.

I show a hand procedure in this article and I think I summarize it by stating that the machine will always outperform the human hand. Always. I'm part machine so I'm a little biased.

Man versus Machine

How to use a hand applied abrasive polish or paint cleaner by hand

Priming your pad when working by hand

[05RLS2]

A couple of things...

UC works great by hand and the results you're producing would be worse using a lessor abrasive technology. The idea is to use a less aggressive product and repeat the procedure after the aggressive product and you have to use something that has the abiltity to abrade. Like Ultimate Polish, or SwirlX or even ScratchX

One thing I aways type on forums is this, it takes more skill to work by hand than it does by machine. You can get perfect results by machine because you have equal pruessure applied over the entire face of a buffing pad and the machine uses a consistent, uniform motion. You can say that about the human hand.

You can get very good resutls by hand and after you apply a coat of wax actually achieve visualy perfect results. But it's always going to be faster and easier to do the same job by machine.

Sounds like you're ready to move up to machine to me...

Do some testing by machine next but you're still going to want and need a less aggressive follow-up products like a light polish or an ultra light polish.

From this artice,




I show a hand procedure in this article and I think I summarize it by stating that the machine will always outperform the human hand. Always. I'm part machine so I'm a little biased.

Man versus Machine

How to use a hand applied abrasive polish or paint cleaner by hand

Priming your pad when working by hand

I am pretty familir with using the PC 7424, but I just wanted to play around by hand first. I don't think the hand method works all that great for me using the UC. Even using Utimate Polish by hand was truly unimpressive IMO, it seems to be more of an oily glaze more than an actual polish

I am going to try again this time using by machine on a test pannel, since this product kind of makes me nervous about trying it on a vehicle. I'll probably give it a try on some of the LC CCS pads? Does the UC need to be applied to a foam pad similar to M105 whereas you spread it across the pores of the pad? Or can I get by applying a few drops or an x pattern?

[Mike Phillips]

Does the UC need to be applied to a foam pad similar to M105 whereas you spread it across the pores of the pad? Or can I get by applying a few drops or an x pattern?

Best results will be had if you prime the pad first but you can do either. If you prime the pad 100% of the face of the pad will go to work for you as soon as you turn it on. Maybe test a polishing pad first and if that's not working fast enough or effective enough, then substitute a more aggressive pad.

I would recommend working small areas, about 20" squarish or so and after you apply your working product, quickly spread this out over the area to be worked and then slow down and start making overlapping section passes on the speed 5-6 with firm downward pressure and a slow arm speed.

Arm speed = how fast you move your arm over the surface which is another way of saying how fast you move the polisher speed.


If you want to check and easily see changes taking place, then place a strip of painter's tape on a clean body panel and only buff on one side, compare this side to the paint on the other side.


Working by hand is a challenge, when it comes to removing, not masking but actually abrading the paint and leveling it, then you have to push down on the applicator pad with firm pressure, usually very firm pressure and move your applicator back in forth very fast and do so holding your fingers as fat to the surface, (against the pad), as possible, not at an extreme angle where only your fingertips are primarily applying pressure.

You need to move your hand with equal pressure at the full length of your stroke, so that means where your hand is closest to you and where you hand is farthest from you, the end of your stroke or reach.

It's kind of an art form... both with modern clear coats and traditional single stage paints, like the old term...

"A hand-rubbed lacquer finish"


Let us know how it goes...

W

[Trevor]

I was too scared to use UC by hand because I thought I might use different pressure, motion, etc and cause more problems. I used it with the PC and it definitely took care of the scratches, but left hazing. I expected that though, and a follow up with swirlx did the trick nicely.

I think working by hand really takes a lot of experience (and time/patience) to do properly. Nice to be able to have a junk test panel though!!

[JimShey]

Hello guys! Noob here!

I finally got hold of UC and Scratch X 2.0 the other day...i only need clay to try the process of removing swirls from my daily car. i've been reading a lot from the net regarding this and came across a "conception" posted on some forums that MF applicators are better to use than foams. Is there any truth on this? In any case what the difference bet using these two? Thanks in advance...

[Setec Astronomy]

and came across a "conception" posted on some forums that MF applicators are better to use than foams. Is there any truth on this? In any case what the difference bet using these two? Thanks in advance...

"Better" in what regard? MF applicators (or cotton terry for that matter) will usually give you more "bite" if you are trying to remove defects. Depending on the shape they may also be easier to hold on to.

A lot of this comes down to personal preference, but a rule of thumb could be MF for polishing/cleaning, foam for wax/sealant application.

[JimShey]

In my understanding, they're saying MF is better for use with compounds. Its probably because of the "bite" thing.

...A lot of this comes down to personal preference, but a rule of thumb could be MF for polishing/cleaning, foam for wax/sealant application.

Thanks for this one. I'll use this as guide.