IT'S OBVIOUS FLEX DOESN'T WANT YOU TO USE ROTARY???

[2black1s]

If I could come back and ad this comment it will explain my original train of tjought.
If I am polishing paint it is to remove defects. The only way to remove defects is by applying pressure. Apply too much pressure for an extended amount of time using a 1" pad you will burn through the paint faster than Nancy Pelosi husbands panties drop when accompanied by a drug crazed male prostitute.

If your just wanting to glide across the paint it might as well be done by hand imo

I somewhat disagree... Obviously, it does take some pressure to remove defects but how much is very subjective. I rarely ever use more than the weight of the machine.

Polishing paint is a finesse operation, not a grinding operation. Slow and steady is my preferred approach.

On any given job, especially towards the finishing end of the operation, my hand is usually under the polisher, lifting, rather than on the polisher pushing.

[fly07sti]

I thought of doing that and just ordered a crap load of Coatic and APS. Still pisses me off I never would of imagined I was buying such a killer polisher from all the raving reviews. I usually do my homework but in this case it being compared to th iBird and such I just pulled the trigger only to discover this BS! And I do like buying aftermarket parts when I've owned a tool and want to treat it to some upgrades! But in this case if I really wanted to use it as I was intending to I had to throw down another 2 bills when I was already feeling the $400 initial cost. My $200 Maxshine kicks ass and it came with everything under the sun! If I didn't already own it and have had nothing but great results with, I would of just bought the Ibird. Anyway it's done and I'm over it! I'm already looking forward to trying it out on a new s560 that was dropped of today and he is in no hurry to get it back. The last S560 stayed at my house and I had a blast taking my time and trying out a smorgasbord of product and muskets on it
I'm still waiting for one of the GURU's on here to address why the hell FLEX purposely went this route? I Have heard it can make it run out of sync. But then I here the people with the aftermarket parts say this is the best tool in there arsenal!

I love my Pixie! Hands down my favorite polisher and I have a lot of machines. If you’re wanting an answer from Flex, contact em.

[JustJesus]

It's a safety mechanism. Safety to the polisher itself. - The machine isn't meant to spin 3" pads in rotary mode. Too much for the motor.

I talked to at least two guys who drilled out that bit, to be able to run a 3" pad in rotary, and they say the machine overheats and shuts off. Or something like that.

Any PXE users have a bit of trouble removing the 3" backing plate from the 12mm throw? If so, let me know. I have a solution for that

[Lance Mark]

I somewhat disagree... Obviously, it does take some pressure to remove defects but how much is very subjective. I rarely ever use more than the weight of the machine.

Polishing paint is a finesse operation, not a grinding operation. Slow and steady is my preferred approach.

On any given job, especially towards the finishing end of the operation, my hand is usually under the polisher, lifting, rather than on the polisher pushing.

I don't somewhat disagree, I just plain disagree....no offense intended though....nothing personal, just talking methods here, not sayin' you're kids are ugly or anything....

I use a G8 and a G9.....with both machines, regardless of the pad, and the polish or compound my best results come when I am using a very light touch

there are two areas I feel I need to be careful

1. How much product am I using? Too much ruins a pad for me, and too little just doesn't create enough of that surface film of product I like to work with.
2. How hard am I pressing? for me the sweet spot is that point where my foam pad is gliding over a thin film of product, without slowing down....very rarely do I even use the full weight of the machine, but like the man says, i find myself lifting occasionally....full contact and full speed is the goal

even when i'm using hard pads, like a hard white boss pad.... the light touch is enough to reap the benefit of them being a stiffer pad, but I'm not relying on any kind hard pressing

for me the 'tip of the spear' is the thin film of product

[opie]

I use a G8 and a G9.....with both machines, regardless of the pad, and the polish or compound my best results come when I am using a very light touch

Everybodys style is different.

Cant really be effective anyway with lots of pressure when runnin a free spinning tool

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[2black1s]

I don't somewhat disagree, I just plain disagree....no offense intended though....nothing personal, just talking methods here, not sayin' you're kids are ugly or anything....

I use a G8 and a G9.....with both machines, regardless of the pad, and the polish or compound my best results come when I am using a very light touch

there are two areas I feel I need to be careful

1. How much product am I using? Too much ruins a pad for me, and too little just doesn't create enough of that surface film of product I like to work with.
2. How hard am I pressing? for me the sweet spot is that point where my foam pad is gliding over a thin film of product, without slowing down....very rarely do I even use the full weight of the machine, but like the man says, i find myself lifting occasionally....full contact and full speed is the goal

even when i'm using hard pads, like a hard white boss pad.... the light touch is enough to reap the benefit of them being a stiffer pad, but I'm not relying on any kind hard pressing

for me the 'tip of the spear' is the thin film of product

Agreed!

I've never been one of those 10-15 lbs. of pressure guys (10-15 lbs. of pressure seems to be the value thrown around quite often on these forums and you tube vids).

If you are using that much pressure in your haste to quickly remove defects, I don't want you working on any paint of mine. Likewise, if how fast you can get the job done is priority one.

[chilly]

Agreed!

I've never been one of those 10-15 lbs. of pressure guys (10-15 lbs. of pressure seems to be the value thrown around quite often on these forums and you tube vids).

If you are using that much pressure in your haste to quickly remove defects, I don't want you working on any paint of mine. Likewise, if how fast you can get the job done is priority one.

Agreed!!

I watched a video once from a well known/respected detailer and heard 15-20 pounds of pressure so I grabbed a bathroom scale with an all glass face and actually ran my 15mm throw Rupes with an orange pad and some 3D One just to see what 15-20 pounds of pressure was like

It was wayyyyyyyy more than I would ever be comfortable actually applying to car paint, even if I was doing a super heavy cut

I am not a pro and don't have time constraints so finesse is my friend, even cutting neglected paint

I kept backing off until it felt as close to my "normal" pressure as possible and it was less than 10 pounds

This same youtube "pro" has said some other things that most of you don't agree with and despite his reputation I take ANYTHING he says with a grain of salt anymore

P.S. The scale looked AMAZING when I was done

[oneheadlite]

...

I watched a video once from a well known/respected detailer and heard 15-20 pounds of pressure so I grabbed a bathroom scale with an all glass face and actually ran my 15mm throw Rupes with an orange pad and some 3D One just to see what 15-20 pounds of pressure was like
...
P.S. The scale looked AMAZING when I was done

In my head I'm picturing that moment the next time somebody jumps on the scale with wet feet after a shower and slides smooth off it...

[chilly]

In my head I'm picturing that moment the next time somebody jumps on the scale with wet feet after a shower and slides smooth off it...

I actually had to stop myself from putting sealant on it for that very reason




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[PaulMys]

Agreed!

I've never been one of those 10-15 lbs. of pressure guys (10-15 lbs. of pressure seems to be the value thrown around quite often on these forums and you tube vids).

If you are using that much pressure in your haste to quickly remove defects, I don't want you working on any paint of mine. Likewise, if how fast you can get the job done is priority one.

Bingo.

And I think you will agree with me here, John......

If you have ever used a DA sander on wood, you will much better understand what kind of "touch" the paint polishing process takes.

Does one "Mash Down" on the wood sander trying to remove all of the fine saw marks with 80 grit paper?

Of course not. So why would this technique work on paint with essentially the same tool??