Need some expert help on what is next

[rick100]

I mostly use the Uro fiber as a one step. 3D One is a staple in my collection of correction liquids and I love it to the point that all my Menzerna products been on the shelf collecting dusts. I also done many "one step" using Essence and Uro fiber pads then follow up with CQUK. However...Never try using Essence and Uro pad to remove a coating. Not sure if it would work on Opti Coat but then it has been 6 years since it was applied. The last time I had to remove Opti Coat... I used Meguiar's M101 and MF cutting pads with a 8mm free spinning DA. It was a long process. Long throw polishers or DA dedicated wool pads were not a thing yet...LOL

BTW.... what type of polisher are you using? CarPro Essence is different then CarPro Essence Plus. Which one do you have again? What type of paint system is your vehicle?

my plan of attach is using uro fiber pad with 3D polish compound to remove the coating and correct the paint. Then wipe off with eraser and do my finish polish with car pro glass pad and essence . I have other products in my arsenal right now m105, m205 , ultimate polish, ultimate compound , griots all in one . I just read so many good things about 3D polish/compound that I m leaning towards that. For essence, car pro gloss pads are more of a finish polish/ fillers before the coating

I have a e90 bmw, I believe its a hard paint, white colour

I have used essence plus on this car with car pro gloss pads, its more of a filler with no cutting . It was good but it def does not help with deeper swirls. I still have essence plus in my arsenal, and I do plan to use it as a maintenance product once I recoat the car, if that is the route that I seem to be leaning towards

here is a picture 3 months ago, this is before beadmaker, no polish and reload was applied 3 months prior .

20190607_142447.jpg - Google Drive

[The Guz]

thanks

I do have the edgeless 300 from rag company , as well as the 500 . I had some lint from the 300 the last month and I stopped using them , they were great the first year. and they were my go to towel for top coating applications. Since I had lint on the 300 , I washed all of them again and add it some white vinegar. I still stored them and I was not sure what to do with them , since they looked good and felt great, I didnt want to demoted just yet . Yesterday was the first time pf me re using them . I used them to buffed off after polishing the hood and trunk, surprisingly there was no lint anymore. Zero lint . So im not sure if it was just a bad washed , the towels feel great and all , I may used them again to buff off the coating and then demoted them after

Im wondering if a bad wash would caused those towels to lint and re washing them would fix the issue.

Although I remember using them with a heavier application of reload, and I do not think those 300 like it when there is too much sealant, they seem to drag quite a bit on the surface compared to the 500 gsm towels, I m wondering if this could cause them to lint a bit . I had the very same experience once with microfiber madness crazy pile, and those towels were a month old , they also left quite a bit of lint with car pro reload. Never had an issue with reload with my bigger gsm towels. I m assuming a coating like cquartz is not going to be as wet as a sealant when they are being removed after application?

Well I meant the edgeless 300 and not the eagle edgeless. Two different types of towels. Low nap is what you want. Save those plush towels for your spray sealants.

[rick100]

Well I meant the edgeless 300 and not the eagle edgeless. Two different types of towels. Low nap is what you want. Save those plush towels for your spray sealants.

I see. Yes those are the ones I was looking for ! awesome . I was not sure what other options were there for low nap towels. Car pro suedes are expensive for me, the popo towels were also on the expensive side and there was something gyeon that was also on the expensive side. For some reason these towels are not sold on amazon canada under prime but thank you for suggestion that option.

The only thing close to that was the 350 eagle , but like I said before , I was not too confident with the lint and a coating on those towels.

I ve been watching more tutorials on cquartz and it seems doable. The flashing time is still not too clear to me , like someone suggested before , I ll try it on my trunk first . Would wiping it too early remove the product? is that the concern ?. I can see waiting too long causing high spots, but keeping it safe and wiping it after 30 seconds seems to be what most guys are doing . I even saw a video from car pro uk where the guy just apply the product evenly for around 45 seconds and just wipe it off without waiting, when asked about the waiting times he said that if you work the product for that much time there is not need to wait to wipe it off

here is the video

Official CQuartz UK Edition Application with CarPro UK - YouTube

[psnt1ol]

I ve been watching more tutorials on cquartz and it seems doable. The flashing time is still not too clear to me , like someone suggested before , I ll try it on my trunk first . Would wiping it too early remove the product? is that the concern ?. I can see waiting too long causing high spots, but keeping it safe and wiping it after 30 seconds seems to be what most guys are doing . I even saw a video from car pro uk where the guy just apply the product evenly for around 45 seconds and just wipe it off without waiting, when asked about the waiting times he said that if you work the product for that much time there is not need to wait to wipe it off

Flash time is temperature and humidity dependent. Flash time is shorter when the weather is warmer. The rainbow effect (looks like a oil slick) on the panel will be the best indicator on when to level it with a short nap MF. I generally do a small section to see how fast it will flash. This will determine how big my working section will be for the rest of the vehicle.

[The Guz]

I see. Yes those are the ones I was looking for ! awesome . I was not sure what other options were there for low nap towels. Car pro suedes are expensive for me, the popo towels were also on the expensive side and there was something gyeon that was also on the expensive side. For some reason these towels are not sold on amazon canada under prime but thank you for suggestion that option.

The only thing close to that was the 350 eagle , but like I said before , I was not too confident with the lint and a coating on those towels.

I ve been watching more tutorials on cquartz and it seems doable. The flashing time is still not too clear to me , like someone suggested before , I ll try it on my trunk first . Would wiping it too early remove the product? is that the concern ?. I can see waiting too long causing high spots, but keeping it safe and wiping it after 30 seconds seems to be what most guys are doing . I even saw a video from car pro uk where the guy just apply the product evenly for around 45 seconds and just wipe it off without waiting, when asked about the waiting times he said that if you work the product for that much time there is not need to wait to wipe it off

here is the video

Official CQuartz UK Edition Application with CarPro UK - YouTube

Sandro does a good job in this video.

[rick100]

Sandro does a good job in this video.

awesome video , that pretty much answers my question. He is pretty much the first guy do mention the warm water trick for colder weather. I can probably get my garage to over 10 degrees if I really wanted to and warm up the bottle . I ll probably wait till early next year for the spring time to get it ready. Seems straight forward

thanks man

[SNP209]

Rick,

There is a product that checks all the boxes you are looking for, and it is Dr. Beasley's NSP Z1. This product will offer some paint correction and leaves behind a coating that lasts a year, depending on how you maintain it. You can top Z1 with any wax, sealant, or coating of your choice.

I wouldn't worry about completely removing the current coating on your car, just go over it with Z1 and maintain with beadmaker. Whenever you do see some marring that bothers you, just hit it with some Z1 and a pad of your choice, and you're good to go.

Just gotta wait for it to get back in stock

[Coatingsarecrack]

If your looking for ease of use and polishing once a year i would go with Cquartz lite or Gyeon Cancoat. Poth pretty much wipe on/wipe off. More forgiving than CqUk3.0.

I haven’t tried CQLite but did apply 3.0 and Cancoat.

If you decide on The Last Coat BI, look into Adams graphene spray coat. Alot cheaper than LCBI per oz and hydropgobics look alot better. Durability is about same claim, over a year.

The nice thing about it is I read from one of their reps, shelf live should be several years....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mike Phillips]

Also , I m debating my decision on coating a car.

I get this hypothetical scenario all the time. As in - all the time. I have the same feedback for everyone that asks about putting a coating on their car or paying to have a coating installed,

How long it will last and how long it will LOOK GOOD, (that's 2 separate things), depends on, how you TOUCH the paint afterwards. Yes - it's that simple.


I cover this topic basically all the time, almost always in our LIVE video classes on Thursdays, but here's my articles on the topic for reference,


How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach

When it comes down to maintaining a scratch and swirl free finish - it all comes down to how you touch the paint - Mike Phillips

Things you need to wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips

How, why & when to inspect your microfiber towels when detailing cars