M105 working time

[AV8R]

Used some M105 with a 5.5" LC Yellow flat pad yesterday for the first time. Seemed like I got about 2 passes before it was dried up and starting to dust. The middle of the pad was still moist, but the edges were not. I used a tiny bit of distilled water on the pad and worked it a bit more and it seemed to work pretty well. Is this a common situation with M105? Temps were mid 60s and low humidity. I was working in my garage.

thx

[Mike Phillips]

I've seen a lot of people bring this issue of short working time up in the last few years... that's probably an indicator there's something to the trend in experiences...

Use a pad conditioner or use a little more product till your pad becomes wet with product, at least topically...

A lot of times when first starting out I expect to have a shorter buffing cycle because some of the product is going go into your pad... so I don't make as many passes, stop, wipe off residue, inspect pad, start again...

[maximus20895]

What should the product look like on the paint after your do 4-6 passes? Should it be clear or what? Is there any signs that you worked it in..i'm not even sure if you really work it in since it's a SMAT..

[AV8R]

I'm a bit confused by the pad being damp in the middle, yet dry at the edges. If I stop the buffer and press the pad down on the surface, I can leave compound on the surface, yet no matter how hard I press when the buffer is running, I cannot do the same thing after just a few passes. I've been using Hydro-Tech pads and this was my first try with the recommended 5.5" LC Flat pads. Any ideas there?

thanks

[Mike Phillips]

What should the product look like on the paint after your do 4-6 passes? Should it be clear or what?

How a product will look after 4-6 section passes will depend upon if you're starting with a fresh dry pad or pad that has been broken in or dampened first with a pad conditioner, regardless, with a SMAT product you can make as many passes as you want just don't buff to a dry buff. You should always have a wet film on the surface, this doesn't mean tons of product, just a film that shows you still have lubrication. Th problem with buffing dry is you could start dulling the finish down because you have no lubrication.

Is there any signs that you worked it in..i'm not even sure if you really work it in since it's a SMAT..

The goal with any abrasive product is usually to remove defects and create a flat, clear surface. To this end you buff a section and then inspect the results, hopefully you'll see that the defects are removed or in the process of being removed and the paint is looking better, not worse. Doing some test spots or sections should give you an idea as to whether or not your combination of pad, product and technique are working. If not, then time to try a different combination or post back here what you're seeing and someone will try to help you.

I'm a bit confused by the pad being damp in the middle, yet dry at the edges. If I stop the buffer and press the pad down on the surface, I can leave compound on the surface, yet no matter how hard I press when the buffer is running, I cannot do the same thing after just a few passes. I've been using Hydro-Tech pads and this was my first try with the recommended 5.5" LC Flat pads. Any ideas there?

thanks

Product will tend to accumulate in the center of the pad, not on the outer edges. After buffing for a while with a single pad you can even see product that has worked all the way through the pad an accumulated on the center of the face of the backing plate.

Everyone can and will come up with their own technique that works for them, what I've always done and works for me is after placing some product on the face of the pad, place the pad against the paint, turn on the polisher and the quickly spread the product out over the section I'm going to work, this act so spread a uniform layer product out over the area I'm going to work and also over the face of the pad.

If you like you can take your finger and spread the product out over the face of the pad before placing the pad against the paint and this is actually a better way of using your product, I just opt to not get my finger all wet with product and for the most part the method I use has been working for all my life... so experiment and find a technique that works for you.

Also, the Hydro-Tech pads are closed-cell pads, take a clean Hydro-Tech pad, press it against your lips and try to blow air through it, you'll find it's somewhat difficult to do, that's because the cell walls are closed up, not opened-up, just like it's hard to blow air through the pad it will be hard for a liquid to pass through the foam so they are less absorbent.

Don't know what to tell you about the inability to deposit product out of the pad when the polisher is running and the ability to deposit product out of the pad when the polisher is stopped, my guess is because the pad is moving it's depositing some material and then picking it back up into itself all at the same time.

[Dubbin1]

Also, the Hydro-Tech pads are closed-cell pads, take a clean Hydro-Tech pad, press it against your lips and try to blow air through it, you'll find it's somewhat difficult to do, that's because the cell walls are closed up, not opened-up, just like it's hard to blow air through the pad it will be hard for a liquid to pass through the foam so they are less absorbent.

I now have visions of Mike sitting at his desk trying to blow through a stack of pads.

[maximus20895]

Thanks Mike :0

And yes, i'm going to go right now and blow air through pads..

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Thanks Mike :0

And yes, i'm going to go right now and blow air through pads..

Just dont do it backwards and try to suck air thru the pad...especially if you used it lol....be pretty bad to be high off of M105...end up lookin like this dude