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Can I Get Some Quick Guidance With My New CarPro Products?
So my car is already ceramic coated with cQaurtz TiO2. Based on my previous post of the troubles I was experiencing with it after a few months, it seems I need to do a decontamination (decon) wash. Thank you for everyone that helped me out with my last post!
So I went ahead and ordered CarPro Iron X. I also got a free sample of CarPro Spotless.
Now, can anyone give me a quick how-to on the decontamination wash with Iron X?
As far as I understand, I will:
1) Wash with reset
2) Rinse everything off with water
3) With water still on the car, spray the whole car down with Iron X
3) Should the car be dry? Should I do one panel at a time?
4) Let the Iron X sit for a minute or two
5) "Agitate" it with a wet microfiber or mitt
6) Wash off
7) Wash with reset once again
8) Dry and detail as normal
In regard to the Spotless:
1) Should I do this prior to the Iron X wash?
2) Anyone have any tips or a quick how-to on how to use this?
3) I only have a few areas no bigger than 3x3 inches that I need to remove water spots on.
I appreciate all the help from my previous post and any help on this one as well!
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Super Member
Re: Can I Get Some Quick Guidance With My New CarPro Products?
Iron X works better on dry panels so it’s not diluted. But don’t let the product dry, give it a few minutes and spread with a mitt if you want but rinse it off before it dries.
Spotless you can try after Iron X and clay bar but you’ll likely be disappointed, it is pretty useless on spots that didn’t come off with the rest of the decontamination process. It will likely require polish/compound to be removed.
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Super Member
Re: Can I Get Some Quick Guidance With My New CarPro Products?
I usually do my iron-x on dry panels. I also never touch the paint while the iron-x is on.
2005 Nissan 350z (Polish Angel Viking-Coat)/2020 AMG GLC43 (Polish Angel Viking-Coat and Auto Gliss 2.0)/2012 Honda Odyssey TE (Jescar Power Lock)/2020 AMG C43 (CQuartz UK3.0 and Auto Gliss 2.0)
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Re: Can I Get Some Quick Guidance With My New CarPro Products?
Originally Posted by BSoares
Iron X works better on dry panels so it’s not diluted. But don’t let the product dry, give it a few minutes and spread with a mitt if you want but rinse it off before it dries.
Spotless you can try after Iron X and clay bar but you’ll likely be disappointed, it is pretty useless on spots that didn’t come off with the rest of the decontamination process. It will likely require polish/compound to be removed.
Thanks for the input! Hopefully the spots come off... Honestly not a big deal if they don't- there's only maybe 5-6 individual water spots on the whole car so it's not a big deal.
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Re: Can I Get Some Quick Guidance With My New CarPro Products?
Originally Posted by ntwillie1
I usually do my iron-x on dry panels. I also never touch the paint while the iron-x is on.
So you just spray it on and let it sit? Do you do one panel at a time? Also, how heavily do you spray?
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Super Member
Re: Can I Get Some Quick Guidance With My New CarPro Products?
I spray the whole car. I also spray it very liberally. Smells bad so wear a mask. Takes a few min to go around the entire vehicle. I let sit max 4-5 min and then I rinse off. Often times I spray it on while my car is still dirty. I like seeing all the purple run off, lol.
2005 Nissan 350z (Polish Angel Viking-Coat)/2020 AMG GLC43 (Polish Angel Viking-Coat and Auto Gliss 2.0)/2012 Honda Odyssey TE (Jescar Power Lock)/2020 AMG C43 (CQuartz UK3.0 and Auto Gliss 2.0)
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Super Member
Re: Can I Get Some Quick Guidance With My New CarPro Products?
I would not bother with spotless. If you have fresh water spots then it works. But anything older than a week or two and it won't do anything. Its been a constant miss for me as has Optimum MDR.
So you have a couple options with irnox. You can either spray it on dry paint prior to your wash if the paint is not too dirty.
If it is too dirty proceed with you wash and blow dry the paint. It is ok if there is still a little water on the surface. At this point spray ironx and agitate with a damp microfiber or wash mitt. This will be more effective than just spraying it and letting it dwell.
Best to not use it in direct sun or on windy days as both will dry it out quick.
I would not clay unless you have the 22ple non-abrasive clay bar. No sense in inducing marring onto your finish with a regular fine grade clay bar.
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Super Member
Re: Can I Get Some Quick Guidance With My New CarPro Products?
I normally use the entire 16oz bottle in one car so that tells you how much to apply. I also don’t want to store the bottle because it stinks so bad. Normally can do the entire car at once but if it’s a hot day I do half and half to avoid letting it dry on the paint.
Last time, I washed the car, then applied iron x to a paint that had a little water but wasn’t too wet, then spread with a mitt (first time doing that). Needless to say, that mitt is now in a ziplock bag to be used only with iron x. Washing it twice didn’t remove the terrible smell from it.
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Re: Can I Get Some Quick Guidance With My New CarPro Products?
Just to chime in,
I normally use iron removing products as a part of a PREP WASH, not as a part of maintenance or restoration/cleaning.
For you situation, here's what I would do.
Step 1: Spray Iron X over body panels of the car - avoid any anodized trim - like common around windows.
Allow to dwell 2-3 minutes but don't let it dry on the surface.
Step 2: Rinse off entire car including Iron X
Next, wash like I show here using CarPro Reset as your wash.
How to safely wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips - Traditional Hose & Bucket Approach
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Re: Can I Get Some Quick Guidance With My New CarPro Products?
After washing - inspect the paint and let us know the results.
As for the water spot remover, I'm like Michael, most of these products don't work unless the water spots are HARD WATER SPOTS and are FRESH.
What is a HARD WATER SPOT?
Great question, glad I asked.
A hard water spot is the MINERALS left behind on the surface after any water has dried or evaporated off the surface.
A water spot remover will break the bond between the minerals and the surface so the minerals can be wiped or flushed off the surface.
here's the deal - MOST water spots WE will ever deal with on our cars are NOT this type of water spot but some type of etching, stain, imprint ring. And these types of "water spots" are only removed by abrading the surface.d
Yeah I know - no one like to see, hear or read the above. Everyone wants a magic elixir that is simply sprayed -on and then removed and PRESTO - the spots are gone. In my 30+ years of detailing cars and a LOT of cars with water spots I'm here to tell you - in about 99.9% of the instances of some type of water spot - if you want and expect it to bed 100% removed you're going to do one of the below,
- Machine apply a cleaner/wax also called an AIO
- Machine apply a dedicated polish
- Machine apply a dedicated compound
- Wetsand
And that's just the reality of it.
And notice I did NOT include the use of any paint cleaners.
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