WG Total Swirl Remover 3.0 vs Menzerna FG-400

[addysdaddy]

Though it seems a bit of p.i.t.a. at the time, personally I've found the test spot to be invaluable. Take the extra time - it will be well worth it.

[1953hogan]

I went ahead and purchased some 5" CCS pads and some Menzerna. Will definitely do a test spot first. Just need my AG order to arrive. Will post photos as I go. Thanks again.

[umi000]

I went ahead and purchased some 5" CCS pads and some Menzerna. Will definitely do a test spot first. Just need my AG order to arrive. Will post photos as I go. Thanks again.

Hmmmm... I'd have gone for flat pads myself - somewhat better cut than CCS pads, and they're likely a better choice for diminishing abrasive polishes like the Menzerna line. Now this is all theoretical on my part - I don't own any CCS pads, and those instances where I have used them, it's been with SMAT polishes (Meguiar's and Optimum). However, I would surmise that for DAT polishes, you want to breakdown the abrasives in a consistent, uniform manner - you wouldn't want any unspent polish getting stuck in the pad dimples, then getting released when you're midway through the polishing cycle - this would lead to less consistent and predictable results.

[Andr3wilson]

Hmmmm... I'd have gone for flat pads myself - somewhat better cut than CCS pads, and they're likely a better choice for diminishing abrasive polishes like the Menzerna line. Now this is all theoretical on my part - I don't own any CCS pads, and those instances where I have used them, it's been with SMAT polishes (Meguiar's and Optimum). However, I would surmise that for DAT polishes, you want to breakdown the abrasives in a consistent, uniform manner - you wouldn't want any unspent polish getting stuck in the pad dimples, then getting released when you're midway through the polishing cycle - this would lead to less consistent and predictable results.

I use CCS and Flat pads. As far as the CCS working, it does not really pick up too much unspent polish. On a single stage or even when the pad is dirty, you can see the dimples are full of a grey-ish substances.

As far as DAT polishes, I have never had a problem with spent and unspent mixing. I prefer them to SMAT polishes for the exact reason they get less aggressive and finish better. Especially for jeweling.

I though Megs was DAT? I have never used their polishes. Only tried Optimum.

[FUNX650]

I though Megs was DAT?

Meguiar's has quite a selection of excellent DAT and SMAT products.




Bob

[1953hogan]

Guys, I've got a follow-up question.

I've already got a PF2500 on order from AG.

My question is, can I follow that up the 2500 with WG Finishing Glaze instead of SF4500? I've read that the 4500 can be a little finicky to completely remove.

Or, should I just use the Wolfgang Twins instead? Or are my fears about removing the 4500 unfounded?

Being a newbie, just want to keep things as easy and goof/proof for myself as possible.

Thanks,

Steve

PS -- Gotta add GO BADGERS in the Rose Bowl today. Been a disappointing season for us. Hopefully we can hang in with Stanford!

[Andr3wilson]

Guys, I've got a follow-up question.

I've already got a PF2500 on order from AG.

My question is, can I follow that up the 2500 with WG Finishing Glaze instead of SF4500? I've read that the 4500 can be a little finicky to completely remove.

Or, should I just use the Wolfgang Twins instead? Or are my fears about removing the 4500 unfounded?

Being a newbie, just want to keep things as easy and goof/proof for myself as possible.

Thanks,

Steve

PS -- Gotta add GO BADGERS in the Rose Bowl today. Been a disappointing season for us. Hopefully we can hang in with Stanford!

Do you have SF4500? If not then go straight ahead with the finishing glaze. 99% of the time you can mix and match products and labels. I do it all the time.

Now by finicky to remove, they are probably talking about the polish residue. I have noticed it takes a tad more work; short-nappe towels work best, but honestly you will not have any problem with SF4500. Personally for me detailing, I either use pinnacle paint cleansing lotion or Carpro Eraser to remove residue leaving the surface prepped for LSP.

Irregardless of what polish you use, there will be a slight bit of residue/film left on the paint, to remove this, the easiest way for you is to use IPA (isopropyl alcohol) diluted in water (4:1). Spray on wipe off. Be careful if you have a 3M clear bra, do not let the IPA touch it because it breaks down and softens it.

Hope this answers some questions

[1953hogan]

Do you have SF4500? If not then go straight ahead with the finishing glaze. 99% of the time you can mix and match products and labels. I do it all the time.

Now by finicky to remove, they are probably talking about the polish residue. I have noticed it takes a tad more work; short-nappe towels work best, but honestly you will not have any problem with SF4500. Personally for me detailing, I either use pinnacle paint cleansing lotion or Carpro Eraser to remove residue leaving the surface prepped for LSP.

Irregardless of what polish you use, there will be a slight bit of residue/film left on the paint, to remove this, the easiest way for you is to use IPA (isopropyl alcohol) diluted in water (4:1). Spray on wipe off. Be careful if you have a 3M clear bra, do not let the IPA touch it because it breaks down and softens it.

Hope this answers some questions

I don't have any 4500 ordered at this point because I had some Ultima Paint Prep Plus to use up, but got to thinking about it today and decided to go ahead and order a finishing polish to accompany the PF2500.

The UPPP gives me fits to remove no matter how thin I apply it, and I was just thinking about trying to avoid that with my next purchase.

Since I don't yet have the 4500, should I just get that or should I go with WG finishing glaze?

And I have another question: Assuming I want to re-wax or apply sealant maybe 4 times per year, can I use the finishing polish (4500 or WGFG) each time before applying LSP? (Or is there another product for that?)

Thanks,

Steve

[Andr3wilson]

I don't have any 4500 ordered at this point because I had some Ultima Paint Prep Plus to use up, but got to thinking about it today and decided to go ahead and order a finishing polish to accompany the PF2500.

The UPPP gives me fits to remove no matter how thin I apply it, and I was just thinking about trying to avoid that with my next purchase.

Since I don't yet have the 4500, should I just get that or should I go with WG finishing glaze?

And I have another question: Assuming I want to re-wax or apply sealant maybe 4 times per year, can I use the finishing polish (4500 or WGFG) each time before applying LSP? (Or is there another product for that?)

Thanks,

Steve

Absolutely, it is actually a good idea to use a finishing polish when you detail your car. Over time, no matter how careful you are, minor swirls and scuffs can be inflicted into the paint. Finishing polishes or nano polishes are great because they are not too aggressive and only remove the light marring. This removes the defect, with out removing more clear coat then needed.

As you see from my previous pictures, that is what I was doing.
I use a white pad with SF4500, works like a charm every time.

You are machine applying this correct?

[1953hogan]

You are machine applying this correct?

Yes, will be machine applying with Griots DA with 5 1/2" finishing pad.

Just to clarify, if you were me, given my concerns, would you buy the WGFG or the 4500?

Thanks for your replies and advice!