TOTAL (?) Swirl Remover

[NeetFREEK]

Please,

A brief summary:

2010 Subaru Legacy Demo (about 9 months old) Dark Mettalic Blue

Dealer Maintained until July (probably using sandpaper to wash & wax)

Lotsa Swirls (some deeper than others)

Since I owned it It has never been touched with any other thing than MF and Meguiar's or Wolfgang stuff. Single bucket washes.

Sunday after working up the courage to tackle the swirls, this is what I did to the trunk lid only:

Wiped down with Meguiar's Quik Detailer (washed less then 24hours prior)
Using G110v2, a New Yellow 8006 Pad and dime sized amount of TSR. Spread on 1/2 the lid (about 2 sq ft) worked @ #1 for 30 sec then #5 for about 5 min. Wiped clean with MF. Backed car into sunlight. No noticable reduction in swirls.

Changed to burgundy cutting pad repeated above on the other half of the lid. Again no noticable reduction.

Since the pad was primed now I used less and spread it across the entire lid. Worked it a little longer and faster @ #6 (it now appeared dry when I finished). After a wipe down and inspection it looked like about 50% of the swirls were gone.

Hey, it is called Total Swirl remover!

Anyway, I figured I don't have any idea what the hell I'm doing (even though I watched all the videos and have read the posts and stuff) and put on a black pad with some WFG and sealed up job. The WFG also looked like it filled in some more swirls.

I am expecting too much?
Did I do something wrong?
Is TSR the right product for the results I want (the "wet" look)?



PS I just noticed the post by Mike. My car is almost exactly like the blue 350Z in condition and color!

Where oh where did I go wrong?

[Mike Phillips]

dime sized amount of TSR.

You need some actual product on the surface working for you and a dime size amount is not enough product. It would be if you spreading a thin coating of a liquid finishing wax to just coat over and seal the paint but to remove small particles of paint in an effort to remove the swirls you want to use an ample amount of product.

Here's an article I wrote on this topic...


How much product do I use with my DA Polisher?


And watch this video...


Here's how to do a "Section Pass" when trying to remove swirls, scratches and other below surface paint defects.

How to do a Section Pass

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q70g83mnTn4]YouTube - How to do a "Section Pass" with a Porter Cable 7424XP[/video]

Visit Autogeek's YouTube Channel for more YouTube Videos

[FinalTouchAuto]

You worked a dime sized amount of product for 5.5 minutes with a very aggressive pad...

I can only assume you actually caused MORE marring than what you started with.

Use more product (not a lot, but 3 dabs or a thin line across the pad should be adequate), spread it quicker and work it for 4-5 full section passes (slowly) and inspect your work. The key to success is practice. Continue working a single area until you find the combination that gives you the results you desire.

[NeetFREEK]

Mike,

Thanks. That's what I get for watching the videos and NOT TAKING NOTES. I was obviously remembering the finishing product amounts! Is there no smiley for DUMBASS.

[Mike Phillips]

A brief summary:

2010 Subaru Legacy Demo (about 9 months old) Dark Metallic Blue

Dealer Maintained until July (probably using sandpaper to wash & wax)

Lotsa Swirls (some deeper than others)

After a wipe down and inspection it looked like about 50% of the swirls were gone.

Hey, it is called Total Swirl remover!

Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover is a great swirl mark remover but it sounds from your description you might need something more aggressive for the deeper swirls and scratches.

I am expecting too much?
Did I do something wrong?
Is TSR the right product for the results I want (the "wet" look)?

What I've always done myself and taught others is to do a Test Spot.

The idea being to only work on one section of the car, about 16" to 20" squarish and dial in and prove a system to this one section before going over the entire car.

If you can make this one section look good you can make the entire car look good.

If you can't make this one section look good to "your expectations", then you'll be glad you didn't waste your time duplicating the same process over the rest of the car only to find out you're disappointed in the results and the time you spent achieving them.

Technique is everything, if you are using correct technique and it sounds like you are, then you probably need a more aggressive product, like a forum favorite like M105 or Ultimate Compound and then follow up with the Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover or the Finishing Glaze.

PS I just noticed the post by Mike. My car is almost exactly like the blue 350Z in condition and color!

Where oh where did I go wrong?

Either technique or you need a more aggressive product and pad for the first correction step.


Check out these two threads...


RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...


This has a lot of reading because it has a LOT of information... worth the read if you're trying to troubleshoot technique... it covers more details than watching the videos...


The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher - Includes Videos

[NeetFREEK]

You worked a dime sized amount of product for 5.5 minutes with a very aggressive pad...

I can only assume you actually caused MORE marring than what you started with.

I hope not. Believe me it had enough to start. I will say that the yellow pad was throwing off tiny grains as I worked it.

[FinalTouchAuto]

Machine polishing is an acquired skill that is refined with experience. You can do all of the reading you want, but until you put some hours into the machine itself you'll be at a loss.

Just keep at it and you'll eventually find the right combination of product, pad, arm pressure, speed, etc... and will get yourself a flawless finish.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Machine polishing is an acquired skill that is refined with experience. You can do all of the reading you want, but until you put some hours into the machine itself you'll be at a loss.

I went through a period when I first started where I got very frustrated because I was a beginner. As Mike P says, polishing is an art form, it takes practice. I'm finally getting to the point where I know the difference in products, what to expect, and use good technique. I'm far from a pro, but I've come a long way! Hang in there!

[NeetFREEK]

[QUOTE=FinalTouchAuto;348889]Machine polishing is an acquired skill that is refined with experience. You can do all of the reading you want, but until you put some hours into the machine itself you'll be at a loss. QUOTE]

I agree 100% but the idea of practicing on my brand new ride is nerve shattering

[Bonifax]

I think the problem was a lack of technique which is a normal issue the first time you use a PC encouraged by all the posts that you've read here; however I bet you will do great removing all kinds of swirls and scratches with time and practice.

Said that, maybe you should try a different combination like Menz SIP with orang pad or SSR 2.5 with orange pad, I can guarantee you that you will have awesome results with these two combos I mentioned.

For me the correct amount of product is to spread an X over the pad and once primed reduce a little bit the size of the X, work the product giving 8 passes (as explained by Mike on the video) at speed 6 and 1 pass or 2 at speed 5, then you should see much better results.