Most cost efficient and effective method for headlight restoration

**DJK83** · 01-10-2011, 07:21 PM

I use 800 grit sandpaper followed by 1000 then 1500. Then follow up with polish and sealant. It is very cost effective this way and some lights can be done with just m105 and m205.

**A.P.A.D.** · 01-10-2011, 08:04 PM

Originally Posted by jkk7479

I agree! I have the 4 inch pads for tight areas as well as for headlight restorations. I have yet to have to wetsand when using a yellow lake country pad and good old M105, followed up with M205 on an orange pad and then some plast x and then favorite sealant.

this combo seems like a great choice, seeing that i could use the M105 and M205 on paint as well. seems the most cost effective. what sealants are safe on clear plastics? i use Megs NXT alot for customers' paint, can i use this one the clear plastic as the last step?

**jkk7479** · 01-10-2011, 08:12 PM

Originally Posted by A.P.A.D.

this combo seems like a great choice, seeing that i could use the M105 and M205 on paint as well. seems the most cost effective. what sealants are safe on clear plastics? i use Megs NXT alot for customers' paint, can i use this one the clear plastic as the last step?

Meguiars NXT is perfectly safe on clear plastics. I am not sure about the longevity of it though. I used Liquid Glass as a sealant because it lasts for about 9-12 months. There is a thread about a urethane sealant that others have tried. I hear it can last a while. Maybe someone with that experience can chime in here.

**tdwheeler18** · 08-23-2015, 11:18 PM

Is using a drill better for sanding or hand? I use hand most of the time I go with 500,600,1000,12000,2000,3000 grit and follow it with compound and sealant.

**Mantilgh** · 08-24-2015, 06:01 AM

^ I prefer to sand them by hand because I feel that I have better control and sanding with a drill scares me some. I'm afraid the outer edge will cut too much if I'm am not totally level with the surface. It should be quicker though, but I don't like the risk. A DA polisher used for the sanding, IMO, would be safer.

Another reason I don't like doing it by machine is that I have a really hard time telling when I have completely removed the previous grit sanding marks. By hand, I always sand 90 degrees to my last sanding step. That way I have good reference for when they are gone.

For compounding and polishing, either style machine is the way to go.

**Mantilgh** · 08-24-2015, 06:34 AM

I do have a soft interface pad to use on my backing plate with my drill which should reduce the hard cutting on the edge. Just prefer it by hand.

**d33p** · 08-24-2015, 06:38 AM

I just did some headlights that were pretty bad. Orange 3" pad on my drill using sf4500 and they were clear as day. Now they still had some fine scratches on em but I didnt want to remove any more than what was necessary.

**tdwheeler18** · 08-24-2015, 12:56 PM

I did a headlight today about 30 mins ago. And after I finished they were still a lil hazy. Prior to me doing them there were horrible so they look 100 times better now, but I want to get that crystal clear look. I don't know if it was the sanding or if I need to use a different method right now I'm using the Spar Urethane method any advice. I use 500,600,1000,1200,2000, and finally 3000 grit sandpaper.

**jrs1418** · 08-24-2015, 01:03 PM

Originally Posted by LuxuryMobile

Most cost effective...

4 inch pads on a da or rotary and any compound and/or polish you already have.

Wetsand if necessary.

^^^ THIS!

I use 4" LC hybrid foam/wool purple pads on my Griots with M100(1) and only wet sand when necessary. Besides curing time for coating, most headlight resto's take me 15 minutes or less

**jrs1418** · 08-24-2015, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by tdwheeler18

I did a headlight today about 30 mins ago. And after I finished they were still a lil hazy. Prior to me doing them there were horrible so they look 100 times better now, but I want to get that crystal clear look. I don't know if it was the sanding or if I need to use a different method right now I'm using the Spar Urethane method any advice. I use 500,600,1000,1200,2000, and finally 3000 grit sandpaper.

If you're sanding from #500 and up you should have gotten most defects on the exterior of the lens. Hard to tell without seeing it. Sometimes there may be yellowing or discoloration on the inside of the lens cover from heat off the bulb or a leak of water.

I would just ditch the spar.. that stuff is crap. I would Opti Lens or one of the many other plastic and headlight coatings out there.