Which buffer would you buy out of these two and why?

[High Caliber]

Some of the reviews for the GG seem to say it has such little power that if you look at it wrong, it stops spinning. I'm not putting it on the paint, so I do not need the safety feature of "low power".

I second those reviews. I've actually used the GG 3" in Mike's boot camp. It was extremely easy to get it to stop rotating. You really had to back off your input pressure to almost nothing and hold it perfectly flat. Now it did the job, don't get me wrong. We to were using it to correct headlights but it required to much of a light touch for my liking.

[VincenzaV]

Yeah, I'm sticking with a PC7424 and a Flex PE8 for my headlight restoration business.

That's probably a good tool for some people, but I do have tactile feel and control, so I would benefit from the more powerful tools. I'll practice some more on my junkyard lights when I get the new tools. I hate using the drill, it kills my bad wrist and trying to keep the same speeds are very challenging when you move to different positions.

[craigdt]

I agree you will not get favorable results with a da on headlights.maybe to finish them down perhaps.

Hmm- my experiences seem to be the exact opposite.

I hate to be "that guy", but have you ever tried a DA on headlights?
Its close to fool proof and the results are soooo good.

Heck, even PlastX by hand generally does an awesome job.

OP- I got the 3" LC backing plate for my Megs G110, use 4" orange LC pads, and M105/M205. Depending on how many jobs you do, I'd think a 7424XP would be perfect for you.

[VincenzaV]

Craigdt-I also heard the DA is great on lights from extensively researching here. I am going to get both the DA and rotary as Mike P suggested. The DA to sand, the Flex PE8 to remove any deep scratches with compounds, and the use the DA again but to polish. I am trying to reach nirvana like results with headlight as that is my main business for now. Thanks for the input.