Wetsanding with 2k grit

[hernandez.art13]

thanks for all the replies guys.

I'm using 2k grit with a d/a sander. actually, it isn't round though, it's square. Back and forth motion. Not orbital.


I've been sanding for quite some time. We actually use to sand with 1500. I convinced my dad to use 2k grit. 1500 was way too coarse, after paint we do not need that. Our finish is perfect after the 2k.



Hernandez, how is the cut with FG400? Comparable to.... m105?

I did like the cut of 105, but the dusting and clean-up was NOT efficient.

Well I really do like FG400. However, for me one of the reasons I keep it in my secret hidden personal use stash is because the cost

Also I think there is a grayer area with products that are DAT. Meaning, you think you are working the product, but in reality you already broke it down. So your just polishing unnecessarily. Still not to sure on that.


Menzerna Fast Gloss Compound (FG-400) 32 oz.
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Item #: MEN-FG400QOur Price: $49.99


Meguiars M105 Ultra-Cut Compound 32 oz.
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Item #: M-10532Our Price: $34.99Sale price: $27.99 - You Save $7.00 (20&#37=

M105 on the other hand, can do just as great of a job. The working time is not as long, but you could spray a spritz of water to keep working it since it is SMAT or break up the dried product to make wiping it off easier, but the reason why I like M105 over FG400 is because of the cost.


Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound 32 oz.
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Item #: M-10032Our Price: $29.99Sale price: $21.99 - You Save $8.00 (27%)

Now M100 is nice stuff. I used it when I was doing a product experiment over at Meguiar's TNOG. Comparing M100 vs FG400. FG400 won but the difference was so insignificant. That it made me just want to get M100 or M105. While FG400 is nice, I can get away with the other 2 since I'm used to 3M rubbing compound lol. Now that there is a doozy.


After you are done, sanding, compounding, and polishing. How are you getting the car ready? Meaning do you want it ready for presentation, do yo waterless wash, rinseless wash, regular wash?

I know when I was doing body shop work using 3M product the dust never bothered me. Since I knew the car wash guy was going to take the car outside and wash the car and wash the dust away.

I guess it all comes down your preference and the way you need to get the job done.

I know for the AIO D151 jobs I've been doing as of late. D151 dust a good amount and is really noticeable on black paint. Which in turn does frustrate me because I know I have to go back and wipe the dust away.

So body shop dust didn't bother me, 1 was because it was going to get a traditional wash outside and 2 was probably because I didn't have to do it , but now detail jobs that I've been doing dust does bother me. Since I do want the car ready to go after I polish it up. So each paint has been different I've been noticing.

[hernandez.art13]

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ack-paint.html

Solekeeper, if you are in the LA area, Art (Hernandez) also grew up in his family's body shop and has lots of sanding experience, he's a great forum member and always willing to help (sorry Art if I just threw you under the bus).

Nope and no worries

[solekeeper]

Hernandez, after all polishing, assembling parts, etc. we do a regular wash.

I've used the m105, but the dust is unbearable for me. Say i do quarter panel with the gas tank, it gets caught up in side and leaves white and i have to take time to wipe it out by hand etc. With the HD cut, dust was non-existant, as well as staining. I could simply rinse and be done.

So knowing that this is possible, I will not go back to m105.

FG400 sure is costly, absolutely right about that.. Doing my research before I purchase thats for sure.

It seems alot of guys like the m100, i'm going to look into it. What do you guys think my wool pad of choice should be for some sufficient cut? Lambswool?

[Tato]

+1 for further sanding, 3000 at least, 5000 if you can. If you are sanding by machine, that's even easier to do.

I'm not saying you can't remove 2000 grit by machine, yes, you can.

However, 2000 grit is aggressive so will need to be your compounding approach. Otherwise, your deeper sanding marks will be there and will be seen by trained eyes using proper light.

I insist for you to keep assessing your work after every section using a swirl finder light to see your real results (for that, an Eraser wipe down would be also desirable).

Again, it's sure you can remove 2000 grit using a rotary and compound, however the aggressive compounding needed (and the wool pad) are likely to cause you the need for further refinement because of holograms. Again, you'll have to grab your machine and refine to get optimal results.

If you refine sanding to 3000 (or preferable) with 5000 grit, you may remove sanding marks using FG400 on an orange pad, via DA, cut and finish in one step, leaving a perfect finish behind without the risk of holograms.

I also remove 5000 grit sanding marks with a white pad and a polish, but I prefer to use slightly higher cut when removing sanding marks to remove them plenty without margin for error.

Try to use the least abrasive method to get the job done, you looks like searching for the most aggressive method, instead of realizing to refine your sanding a bit and you'll have a better time removing sanding marks, and leave a better finish at the end.

Just my 0.02$.

Good luck.

[Mike Phillips]

What do you guys think my wool pad of choice should be for some sufficient cut? Lambswool?

4-ply, twisted 100% wool cutting pad.

I like pads with a longer pile length versus a shorter pile length, 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" seem to cut great, clean easy and buff easier.

Shorter pile length pads just see too hard when buffing and they are harder to clean as well. I think pads with a longer pile length are also easier to control with less buffer hop.

[solekeeper]

Mike, mind linking me to a good one to go with the m100?

I'll be ordering some goodies tonight from you guys.

[glen e]

I get rid of 2000-2500 wetsand with a flex rotary , a hybrid wool foam pad and fg 400... then an orbital and white pad and Meg's 205....

[Setec Astronomy]

Mike, mind linking me to a good one to go with the m100?

I'll be ordering some goodies tonight from you guys.

I still advocate you taking a ride up to Autogeek when you have time, Mike and Nick have been known to make time for forum members and you can have an in-person discussion about your needs and leave with products in hand. They are frequently there on Saturdays as well, there was just a Cars & Coffee this past weekend.

[solekeeper]

I still advocate you taking a ride up to Autogeek when you have time, Mike and Nick have been known to make time for forum members and you can have an in-person discussion about your needs and leave with products in hand. They are frequently there on Saturdays as well, there was just a Cars & Coffee this past weekend.

Yea I've seen AG when heading up north. I will definitely make time to see them (if i don't figure out this mess within the next few weeks)


But with all the help I've acquired, i might not have to. We'll see.

[schpenxel]

Try Trizact 3000 on a DA to refine the scratches. 3M recommends their "interface" pad to even the pressure across the surface and help you not go too hard on corners/body lines. You can even go to 5000 after 3000 if you want to. Unfortunately, neither are cheap and you usually have to buy a whole box of each. Autogeek I believe sells them in smaller quantities so that might help if you can figure out how many you need

Regardless, 3000 grit sanding "scratches" should EASILY polish out with a rotary, wool pad and 3M buffing compound. 5000 grit scratches almost don't even need to be buffed out so for those you could probably go easier on them

I have also used chemical guys to get out 3000 grit sanding scratches. V32 or V34 have both worked for me and they tend to leave a "clearer" surface than 3M's products in my opinion for whatever reason. 3M's sometimes leaves a little bit of a hazy look to me sometimes