The Griots is a dual action polisher. I personally like Makita 9227 as far as rotary polishers go. Dewalt, flex, Milwaukee are also good machines.
Harbor freight has a polisher very similar to the Griots garage one. They also have a rotary that some people seem not to mind.
I have the pictures downloaded to my computer. I'm still trying to figure out how to resize them, and post onto the forum. I'm not a computer Guy at all.
I have some on my phone, but they don't show much of anything.
Are you using the 3" pad and backing plate, or did you install the 5"? Were you able to maintain good pressure and rotation? Is your air compressor able to keep up? I use a 30 gallon, 4hp that puts out 9.3 scfm @90 psi, and its sometimes not enough when used for prolonged periods.
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i am actually using 3" backing plate and pads..... and the rotation was well once i learned to use it. sometimes if you held it just right it would heat the glass and you could see the polish like evaporating i guess you would say. and i believe the compressor is able to. i turned it all the way up and it goes.. i dont think thats the problem. i think its the tool. you just cant put much pressure on it before it starts to vibrate and spin at a slow cycle. once u lift pressure a bit it starts spinning quiet fast again....
i have this tool. its a craftsman though. i dont really know if the back plating comes off. ive tried with no luck. would this work? has high and low as well..
I'm a total, complete, utter novice, but after reading blogs for more than 12 hours, I feel ready to ask some questions and then place an order for CeriGlass +.
Welcome to AGO!
1. I have an old Porter Cable (Model 305) heavy duty polisher. It has one speed, 2,000 RPMs. Can I use it as is, using less downward force? Or should I get a rheostat to lower the RPMs? Or do I just need to buy a new machine altogether? If you recommend a new machine, what machine and what website to buy that machine at the lowest cost would you recommend? (I'm 70 and on disability, so money is more than a little tight.)
Since you are specifically asking about the feasibility of using this tool to polish your glass I would advise against it for several reasons. One, that high speed will sling product EVERYWHERE no matter how careful you are. Two, that high speed will also cause the glass to get hot very fast which will, in turn, evaporate the polish too quickly to be effective at leveling severe defects. The heat problem can be partially mitigated by adding more water to the surface but then you will be mildly softening the cutting ability of the polish AND causing more product to sling away from your buffing area.
2. My windshield has wiper haze, scratches, and pitting. Would the Lake Country glass polishing pads (not cutting pads) in combination with the CarPro Rayon Polishing pads work better (i.e. faster) than the CarPro pads alone?
I have not used the Lake Country glass "polishing" pads so I can't comment on their effectiveness. However, in reading the product description it seems like they are simply a closed cell foam cutting pad with glass polishing abrasives (I'm assuming cerium oxide?) built into the foam. This seems unnecessary since we now have access to CeriGlass which is a dedicated cerium oxide based glass polish. The rayon pads from CarPro coupled with their CeriGlass polish is a killer combo to smoothing out defects in glass.
3. I found the link for the atomizing spray bottle, and the advice was to use a "water/ONR solution". I don't have a clue what "ONR" stands for...but will probably kick myself when told, because its probably something really simple.
ONR is what us forum nerds use to abbreviate Optimum No Rinse. It's a versatile produce that can be used for rinseless washes, clay lubricant, and quick detailer (in various dilution ratios). I have experimented with water and ONR solutions as buffing liquids to add to CeriGlass to re-wet the polish. I have no scientific evidence but my theory is that ONR contains polymers that MIGHT slightly extend the working time of the polish more so than simply adding water. These same polymers MIGHT also diminish the cutting ability of the polish to a certain degree. Oh well. I like the smell of ONR and glass polishing takes forever so that's what I like to use.
4. I also made note of the recommendation for the use of an "HT CYAN" polishing pad. I (one) don't know what "HT" stands for (I presume the manufacturer) and (two) would it be useful to combine it with either, or both of the polishing pads I mentioned in #2.
These are Lake Country HydroTech (HT) foam pads. They use "closed cell" technology which helps keep water based polish near the surface of the pad rather than soaking into the foam (and subsequently not doing anything for defect removal AND leading to higher pad temps). Since the surface must be kept somewhat moist for glass polishing these pads are a perfect choice if you prefer to use foam rather than the Rayon glass pads. To be honest they work really well and are a little more forgiving than the rayon pads. The rayon pads simply do the job a little bit faster.
5. If there's something I haven't specifically asked that someone feels I should know before I place my order, please tell me, and you needn't worry in the least about hurting my feelings.
I eagerly look forward to as many answers from as many people who can take the time and have the patience to answer these very basic questions.
Thank you.
Sound like you have been doing your research and are ready to get to work! I'm excited to hear about your glass polishing success story!
I also think having an adjustable rpm is important for being able to control the machine more easily.
As far as the craftsman rotary, if it has an rpm range around 1000, and a removal backing plate I'd try it. But that tool is more likely to be able to cause damage, because it's a forced direction tool. It doesn't vary its rotation, so if you hold it just wrong, you could wreak havoc.
Well today I looked a bit closer and all the scratches seemed to have gotten deeper and even worse.. Idk but now i can feel more of them with my fingernails and they are everywhere! I'm starting to think I might as well just replace every window but idk. Help!
Well today I looked a bit closer and all the scratches seemed to have gotten deeper and even worse.. Idk but now i can feel more of them with my fingernails and they are everywhere! I'm starting to think I might as well just replace every window but idk. Help!
Get this stuff:
And you will be good. I don't think your machine is the correct machine for the job. You need to use a lot of downward force to remove defects from glass and you need a polisher, be it DA or rotary, with a powerful motor that won't bog or slow down under pressure and will keep spinning - pretty fast.
The GG6 is the cheapest machine proven to have the oomph to remove defects from glass.
Only other thing I can add is to keep the polish wet.
And you will be good. I don't think your machine is the correct machine for the job. You need to use a lot of downward force to remove defects from glass and you need a polisher, be it DA or rotary, with a powerful motor that won't bog or slow down under pressure and will keep spinning - pretty fast.
The GG6 is the cheapest machine proven to have the oomph to remove defects from glass.
Only other thing I can add is to keep the polish wet.
Trust me I may just have to get those tools. Just in a tight spot with money right now that's all..
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Originally Posted by ken tuep
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