Anybody restore Aluminum wheels wetsanding?

[Flash Gordon]

That's a great video Flash.

The first time I saw it I was like 'what an idiot' ......however, within 45 seconds I was like, 'I can't wait to try this!'

[Kevin Cullen]

Maybe it's me Mr. Cullen, but 400 grit rouge and a stiff wheel on chrome is overkill.
I can only imagine the leading edges of the wheel's intricate surfaces after being plowed by both products.
There are OP's here that post of burning through the chrome simply by using a soft foam cone, underpowered drill, and an OTC paste polish.

It was only several weeks ago that I PM'ed a poster telling him to PM you seeking advice.

That was before I saw your blog/website/videos. If you look @ APAD's, Flannigan's, B&B's , Corey's, tuscora dave's...(and the list is endless) individual websites and videos, they show their own work. Vehicles that they are, or have, worked on.
Not resorting to parlor tricks such as the bait and switch that you used in the chrome wheel video. What was the hurry - fear of timing out on YouTube?
I find it almost criminal that you would tell a prospective customer to use 400 grit and a stiff wheel, remove the item from the set,then proceed to show only green liquid polish with a softer buff.

While I am a simple man (self taught, guided by those in the field), common sense goes a long way, and Autogeekians aren't easily deceived...don't pee on my leg hand and tell me it's raining.

I wish you much luck and success, but don't think for a minute that Autogeekians are simple minded. I was greatful when you joined here, due to the fact that I only seek guidance from one metal working forum, and thought maybe your insight could add value to what I may be missing out on.

Last, but not least, I agree with the ambient temp/wheel suface temp issue....but, the GM two part wheel is not tightly fitted, thus less of the possibility of heat draw. If you get your SFPM down to the correct level and increase pressure, while decreasing arm movement, then the issue will resolve itself unless in extreme situations.

If I owe you an apology, then I'm sure that AGO forum members will come to your defense and set me on the right track.

I apologize Vegas if I have offended. I know that you know your stuff and value your insight. I have only posted what seems to work for me. I appreciate any advice or thoughts since I believe there is always room to grow and learn new things.

You are very correct about the knowledge of the people on this site, can't find better. I come to this site because of the vast mind set there is here and love picking up different ways of doing things. By no means am I trying to parlor anyone. The info I share has worked for me for years. There could be room for improvement and I strive to grow everyday. Again if I have offended I do apologize since that is not my intent.

[DaveT435]

@ Kevin Cullen
Polish Chrome Wheel.wmv - YouTube

Is this wheel chrome or stainless?

Were you spinning black emery (400 grit) @ 3400rpm on purple vented buff ?

Why?

The face of that wheel is like a chrome plated tin...then GM got even smarter and used a chrome plated plastic insert on their 20" factory wheel. The video I watched is completely different than what he is trying to accomplish...and when your polishing semi wheels your polishing a forged aluminum...auto factory wheels are just cast aluminum...A lot softer than the forged wheels...
IMO he needs to see if he can polish the defects out of the powder coat...if not strip the wheels and start over...but then you look at cost and time vs the price of nice aftermarket wheels...

[ShineMyCar]

The face of that wheel is like a chrome plated tin...then GM got even smarter and used a chrome plated plastic insert on their 20" factory wheel. The video I watched is completely different than what he is trying to accomplish...and when your polishing semi wheels your polishing a forged aluminum...auto factory wheels are just cast aluminum...A lot softer than the forged wheels...
IMO he needs to see if he can polish the defects out of the powder coat...if not strip the wheels and start over...but then you look at cost and time vs the price of nice aftermarket wheels...

That's right Dave. I'm focused on Sanding the Pitted aluminum to & buff the surface smoothe ( which I attempted yesterday ) , and clean & reseal the painted portion of the wheel when I get the aluminum finish to my liking. For now, I haven't touched the painted surfaces, but polishing the brake dust sounds like it could work if I find the right tool to do that.

On dirty painted surfaces, maybe one of the drill attachment MG wheel buffing ball or cones I see @ autozone could work? I can look into those if it's a good choice. But I was hoping with this post, that some who have done this before could keep me from wasting money & time buying the wrong tool or polishing product in my trial & error process.

I'm off the project today b/c the sandpaper wore the skin off my fingers yesterday too. I'm gonna revisit tomorrow and continue with some kindof glove and hand sanding til I figure a better approach that will speed up the job without doing damage to my wheels.

I'm still open to proper tool suggestions that could speed up the job and make the final product look better. For the record, the wheels are mounted to tires while I'm doing this project.

[DaveT435]

I still think I would try iron x on them to get as much of the contaminates out of the finish then see where your at. Are the pits in the aluminum or in the coating??

[ShineMyCar]

The pits are on the unpainted face of spokes surface of spokes and around the rim of tire.

The painted center is pretty clean in center where spokes meet, but the space between the spokes are painted and that's where I have some pretty bad brake dust coating the paint. The aluminum wheel cleaner I tried didn't put a dent in the brake grime.

FYI - These wheels have been ignored for years as a driver without cleaning.

[DaveT435]

There are some products that will...iron x will help a lot. A lot of the spray on wheel cleaners will cut through the brake dust. You really don't need an aluminum cleaner...because the wheels are coated. You need a wheel cleaner designed for coated wheels...this will remove dirt, brake dust, debris without hurting the finish. Here is one. You might want to check the threads for wheels cleaners and see what people have been happy with...if you can't find anything ask specifically for recommendations for wheel cleaners.
Griot's Garage Heavy Duty Wheel Cleaner, Griots wheel cleaner, hd wheel cleaner

[ShineMyCar]

Thanks,

I'm still focused on the aluminum surfacing at the moment, but will deal with the painted surfaces when I finish tackling the aluminum. Shipping prices are a bit steep for trial & error of multiple chemicals, but I'll keep any recommendations in mind for that.

Stopped by 2 auto stores today, and the only thing I found that had something possible for sanding / honing the Pitted Aluminum were these.

1) 2" Surface conditioning disc - coarse & medium grits that could be attached to drill

Like these


2) Foam sanding blocks with adhesive sanding pads - that could protect my hands from getting worn down and cramped sanding into small places.

3) 4" sewn Buffing wheel with shank that I can attach to drill chuck.

Has anybody used surface conditioning disks on aluminum? Good idea, or not good idea?

[Flash Gordon]

You are a very determined individual...

[Vegas Transplant]

^^^ EDIT: Fancy meeting you here. Took me a half hour to compose the below post.

The face of that wheel is like a chrome plated tin...then GM got even smarter and used a chrome plated plastic insert on their 20" factory wheel. The video I watched is completely different than what he is trying to accomplish...and when your polishing semi wheels your polishing a forged aluminum...auto factory wheels are just cast aluminum...A lot softer than the forged wheels...'

Dave, you're missing the BIG PICTURE.
1.That video that I posted came from Mr.Cullen.
2. The reason that Flash said "Thanks VT" , is that he saw what many here also see.
And that is: after viewing the video, Mr. Cullen is to metal polishing, as Jeff Suggs is to paint polishing.
3. All of the advice given to the OP by Mr. Cullen is on point and valid.

IMO he needs to see if he can polish the defects out of the powder coat...if not strip the wheels and start over...but then you look at cost and time vs the price of nice aftermarket wheels...

I agree whole-heartedly. As I stated earlier, the project is a good one, just not thought out or researched. The OP seems to think that he can remove the plasticised clear and refinish the spokes, then address the painted/coated face...bass ackwards. But the damage is done, and no other choice but to go on with the game plan.

I apologize Vegas if I have offended. I know that you know your stuff and value your insight. I have only posted what seems to work for me. I appreciate any advice or thoughts since I believe there is always room to grow and learn new things.
.

Mr. Cullen, you did not offend me. Your advice is what the OP is seeking, and is pertinent to the issue.
I also admit that your video is directed at a specific target market - the uninitiated.

Thanks,

I'm still focused on the aluminum surfacing at the moment, but will deal with the painted surfaces when I finish tackling the aluminum. Shipping prices are a bit steep for trial & error of multiple chemicals, but I'll keep any recommendations in mind for that.

It's your gameplan, and I feel that no matter how backwards your approach is...you will be happy with the end results.


Has anybody used surface conditioning disks on aluminum? Good idea, or not good idea?

Yes sir> Great Idea, especially if you tape off the areas that you don't want to inadvertantly scuff-up.

The first time I saw it I was like 'what an idiot' ......however, within 45 seconds I was like, 'I can't wait to try this!'

Me too.
But as the video progressed, I was contemplating ideas of how to get a semi-fixed tool rest into the picture...hahahaha.
Maybe free-standing and weighted at the base.