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Thread: Drysanding?

  1. #11
    Super Member Kristopher1129's Avatar
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    Re: Drysanding?

    Interesting. I never really thought anyone would WANT to dry sand over wet sand, ha. It just sounds like a dusty, friction causing mess to me.

  2. #12
    Super Member Midnight1700's Avatar
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    Re: Drysanding?

    Dry sanding is the way to go IF you've been professionally trained. Not for the faint hearted. After being trained AND learning about the proper products and tecniques, this is best way to go. IMO. BUT, you still have to follow up with some very fine wetsanding and buffing to finish it out.

  3. #13
    Super Member Kristopher1129's Avatar
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    Re: Drysanding?

    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight1700 View Post
    Dry sanding is the way to go IF you've been professionally trained. Not for the faint hearted. After being trained AND learning about the proper products and tecniques, this is best way to go. IMO. BUT, you still have to follow up with some very fine wetsanding and buffing to finish it out.
    Why exactly is that? I'm just curious as to what the benefits are to dry sanding over wet sanding. I picture being able to see the scratches and other imperfections easier, versus wet sanding and having to wipe and let the surface dry before your progress is exposed. Is that why they do it?

  4. #14
    Super Member Flash Gordon's Avatar
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    Re: Drysanding?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kristopher1129 View Post
    Why exactly is that? I'm just curious as to what the benefits are to dry sanding over wet sanding. I picture being able to see the scratches and other imperfections easier, versus wet sanding and having to wipe and let the surface dry before your progress is exposed. Is that why they do it?
    I'm no expert, but from what I understand you actually lose less clear doing the drysand
    “Hard times create strong men, strong men create good times, good times create weak men, and weak men create hard times.”

  5. #15
    Super Member Kristopher1129's Avatar
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    Re: Drysanding?

    Quote Originally Posted by Flash Gordon View Post
    I'm no expert, but from what I understand you actually lose less clear doing the drysand
    I would have thought the opposite.

  6. #16
    Super Member ShaunD's Avatar
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    Re: Drysanding?

    With damp and dry sanding you are going to cut faster so you remove less material and are possibly polishing with the slurry. Before seeing techniques on damp sanding I would damp sand(nearly dry sand), by hand, smaller defects with lower grits to remove them faster. I saw Renny's demo on his site awhile back and IIRC he uses different sanding papers with his techniques; even better than Meg's paper. I don't have the teaching/education to explain, but, what little I have messed with and researched it just makes sense to me. I guess it can best me explained it more common terms along the lines of why you would traditionally wet sand defects out of paint, instead of go at 'em with a rotary and compound.
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  7. #17
    Regular Member 14automobiles's Avatar
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    Re: Drysanding?

    Most body shops I have worked in and hot rod shops I have been around will recommend wet sanding over dry sanding... for a higher gloss in the end. Again, this conversation could go on for days but this is what I have seen.

  8. #18
    Super Member Midnight1700's Avatar
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    Re: Drysanding?

    Quote Originally Posted by 14automobiles View Post
    Most body shops I have worked in and hot rod shops I have been around will recommend wet sanding over dry sanding... for a higher gloss in the end. Again, this conversation could go on for days but this is what I have seen.
    Dry sanding is usually done during the initial scratch/orange peel correction process. During this phase of correction, you'll usually dry sand up to 1500 grit (this may vary) then follow up with 2000-3000 wet sand. Once sanding process is complete, finish with compounding/polishing/jeweling and so on, for the best possible finish.

  9. #19
    Regular Member 14automobiles's Avatar
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    Re: Drysanding?

    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight1700 View Post
    Dry sanding is usually done during the initial scratch/orange peel correction process. During this phase of correction, you'll usually dry sand up to 1500 grit (this may vary) then follow up with 2000-3000 wet sand. Once sanding process is complete, finish with compounding/polishing/jeweling and so on, for the best possible finish.
    Ok??? Not sure why you replied to my quote??? I was making a statement about the original start of the thread...which was about dry sanding or wet sanding....did you read the start of the thread? what was your point you were trying to make?

  10. #20
    Super Member Midnight1700's Avatar
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    Re: Drysanding?

    Quote Originally Posted by 14automobiles View Post
    Ok??? Not sure why you replied to my quote??? I was making a statement about the original start of the thread...which was about dry sanding or wet sanding....did you read the start of the thread? what was your point you were trying to make?
    The purpose of the reply was to point out it really doesn't matter whether you start out dry sanding or wet sanding to obtain a great finish. Starting with dry sanding is prefered by highend detailers for the fact you can see what is being done. Your work is not "Hidden" by the slurry of the wet sanding process during the critical process of removing the scratches/orange peel. Starting off dry is quicker than wet and the end results are the same.

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