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  1. #11
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    Re: After the wet sanding.....

    Thanks for the great information. I didn't quote your reply because of size but I will try to address each point in this reply.

    I am able to remove the sanding marks with the 3M. I was using the Ultimate Compound from Meguiar's to remove the gray left over from the 'rocks in a bottle' 3M product. It worked OK but the surface is still a little gray. This is why I started this topic. I want to be sure that I get the true black back once the wet sanding and buffing process is done.

    I will try the test like you describe as I need to do the entire car, now that the hood is done more or less. If I find that the 105 is easier I'll change to that.

    When you asked if I meant 205 as my final compound step, yes I did. I didn't realize that the 205 is acutually a polishing product when I refered to it as a compound. I meant that I would use it as the final buffing step before the polish and then the wax. Now I will change that proceedure. I will either start with the 3M or 105 (depending on the results of my test) and then Ultimate Compound (if necessary) to bring the finish to the stage it is in the photos. Then I'll use the 205 to polish the clear coat, and finally finish it off with the wax.

    Does this sound like I understand your meaning?
    Last edited by 86TonaZ; 11-30-2009 at 07:46 PM.

  2. #12
    Regular Member 87rx7chick's Avatar
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    Re: After the wet sanding.....

    im a little late to the thread, but, i had to re-do my sanding, i sanded with 1200 then buffed with a 3m compound and rotory buffer with wool then with foam.

    realizing 1200 creats deep marks in the paint, texture. i had to buy 1500 and 2000 and go over the paint one more time and buff .

    3m left holograms so i had to buff AGAIN... with 105

    is your paint from factory? or is it after market color coat clear coat?


    you have SOME give in an after market paint job depending on how much clear was applied. in my case 3 coats of clear was applied and i had ample clear to work with.

    i hope i dont confuse you, i only read a bit of your first post and not much of the rest of the thread just letting you know i've been there done that and it just depends on how much clear you have!


    edit: read your last post, sounds great. try it!!!

    you dont need much product on the pad. make sure you watch the DA video how to. rub the product in with 3 and buff with 5-6 to work the product,

    if i were you. after 205 and before a wax, you should try a cleaner, pinnical cleaning lotion, optimum poli-seal (great stuff) or poorboy's black hole, i could go on there are so many. personal preference is that i bought optimum poli-seal which is a cleaner wax type product. you can work it using a green LC pad!
    Last edited by 87rx7chick; 12-01-2009 at 08:15 PM.

  3. #13
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    Re: After the wet sanding.....

    Thanks for the reply. I'll be able to work on this much more in a few weeks. Between now and then I plan to get some 105 and 205 and some polish then the wax. I think with these four steps the finish should turn out smooth and black.

    The paint was applied about 7 months ago. There is more than enough clear on the rest of the car to insure a great result even if I do need to get agressive with the 2000.

    The good news is that other than a few spots on the fenders the orange peel is very minimal. So with little effort I hope to get this car buffed before the beginning of the year.

  4. #14
    Regular Member 87rx7chick's Avatar
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    Re: After the wet sanding.....

    Quote Originally Posted by 86TonaZ View Post
    Thanks for the reply. I'll be able to work on this much more in a few weeks. Between now and then I plan to get some 105 and 205 and some polish then the wax. I think with these four steps the finish should turn out smooth and black.

    The paint was applied about 7 months ago. There is more than enough clear on the rest of the car to insure a great result even if I do need to get agressive with the 2000.

    The good news is that other than a few spots on the fenders the orange peel is very minimal. So with little effort I hope to get this car buffed before the beginning of the year.
    you sound just like me. i spent about 3 weeks finishing the wet sanding and buffing

    remember, if you wet sand make sure to buff the same day, if you let it sit to long the paint will be difficult to work with.

    when wet sanding, its good to start with a soft 3m block, its a soft yet firm foam. use it to level out the paint. then with the next step sand paper use your hand. i used 1500 then 2000. it seemed to take a while with 2000 and the block, i removed the block and found it to go alot smoother, literally, doing it with a flat hand, its easy to have a "woops" when sanding causing a deeper scratch int he paint. i used the 2000 to make sure i got all the "woops" from the sanding block. using a 3m rubber squeegy makes easy work of seeing what your doing with the sand paper. slide the squeegy over the paint to reveal dry areas and see your actual sanding marks.

    always have constant running water over your sanding area, i use a wet microfiber or sponge or even a hose with the metal part cut off . typically i use a bucket and sponge.

    again with the squeegy, its your friend if you dont have one you should get one i promis it will make easy work of figuring if you have worked long enough in an area or not!

    if you dont work the compound enough you could get that hazing. the gray your seeing. you may need to work on it a bit better, but at this point just do 205 and 105. follow the "how to" video and you'll do just fine!!!

  5. #15
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    Re: After the wet sanding.....

    The three weeks is because I'm teaching from home this week online then I have to travel to Alaska to teach another class. Then on the 14th I will teach from home online for a three day class and that's it for the year. Then I can play with the car. I expect the sanding/buffing etc will actually only take me three or four days. That's assuming it doesn't rain.

    I'll see if I can't locate some 105 and 205 locally otherwise I'll place the order with Autogeek for some additional 'stuff'. I'll look to see if by chance they will put a special together which includes most of the stuff I need then I'll just what isn't in the 'package'.

  6. #16
    Regular Member 87rx7chick's Avatar
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    Re: After the wet sanding.....

    http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...tml#post273977
    105,205, and sometthingn like black hole, pinnical cleansing lotion, optimum poli-seal ect. and pick up a green LC buf pad (applies cleaner waxes and such)

    you'll be set. just have to choose what glaze/finish is right for you to squeeze in after 205 and before wax!

    also Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax is unlike any other car wax! Tech Wax, a synthetic, scientifically engineered paint sealant, is an alternative to i tried this stuff out on my daily driver, i love it as a non carnuba wax. deep luster and it hid some swirls on my daily driver. idk bout what others say but i dont mind a product that has fillers in it to help hide imperfections!
    this stuff made my paint soo deep and rich and its as lustrous as a carnuba wax. but idk how it compares to the stuff on autogeek, since i havent tried everything yet.

  7. #17
    Super Member SRHTX's Avatar
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    Cool Re: After the wet sanding.....

    Quote Originally Posted by 87rx7chick View Post
    Also Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax is unlike any other car wax! Tech Wax, a synthetic, scientifically engineered paint sealant, is an alternative to i tried this stuff out on my daily driver, i love it as a non carnuba wax. deep luster and it hid some swirls on my daily driver. idk bout what others say but i dont mind a product that has fillers in it to help hide imperfections!
    this stuff made my paint soo deep and rich and its as lustrous as a carnuba wax. but idk how it compares to the stuff on autogeek, since i havent tried everything yet.
    Uh, young lady, you know what I'm about to say. LOL Go see Anthony and talk to him about some other Optimum products. I had some in my car that I did not take out while we were working on your Mazda RX-7. Yes. The NXT does leave a nice shine, HOWEVER, for only one or two car washes. Optimum has very good products that will last far a few months. hint hint.......
    Stephen R. Hollon, Jr
    Pearland, TX
    (956) 357-7696 – Cell/Text / srhtx@yahoo.com

  8. #18
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: After the wet sanding.....

    Quote Originally Posted by 86TonaZ View Post
    When you asked if I meant 205 as my final compound step, yes I did. I didn't realize that the 205 is actually a polishing product when I referred to it as a compound.

    I meant that I would use it as the final buffing step before the polish and then the wax.

    Now I will change that procedure. I will either start with the 3M or 105 (depending on the results of my test) and then Ultimate Compound (if necessary) to bring the finish to the stage it is in the photos.

    Then I'll use the 205 to polish the clear coat, and finally finish it off with the wax.

    Does this sound like I understand your meaning?
    Perfect.

    It's my nature to focus on words and sometimes a single word.


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