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Old school vs Modern sanding
Hey, guys!
I'm just wondering if you think there's any substantial difference between sanding a new paint job on a classic car with, say, a Rupes pneumatic sander (Skorpio III) vs hand blocking it.
Are there any advantages or disadvantages with either method, you think? I've seen both methods being used on cars all the time.
Thank you!
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Re: Old school vs Modern sanding
Here's my opinion based upon what I've seen.
If the new custom paint job has orange peel - both methods will reduce orange peel and improve the appearance of the paint. That is increase the D.O.I.
But if you really want to do it right - go old school and hand block the paint first to flatten the surface and then machine sand with something like the Trizact #3000 or #5000 even #8000 to refine and reduce the depth of your hand sanding marks and then go to machine compounding.
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Re: Old school vs Modern sanding
Originally Posted by
Juanito805
Hey, guys!
I'm just wondering if you think there's any substantial difference between sanding a new paint job on a classic car with, say, a Rupes pneumatic sander (Skorpio III) vs hand blocking it.
Do you have a car with a custom paint job that you're thinking about wetsanding?
If so - what is it?
And - have you ever wetsanding an entire car before?
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Re: Old school vs Modern sanding
Originally Posted by
Mike Phillips
Do you have a car with a custom paint job that you're thinking about wetsanding?
If so - what is it?
And - have you ever wetsanding an entire car before?
I'm wet sanding a car for a friend - like a Lowrider type of car. But after either block or pneumatic DA, the paint job still looks more or lest wavy.
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Re: Old school vs Modern sanding
Originally Posted by
Juanito805
I'm wet sanding a car for a friend - like a Lowrider type of car.
But after either block or pneumatic DA, the paint job still looks more or lest wavy.
Doe the surface look almost textured? Not a rough texture but just not flat?
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Re: Old school vs Modern sanding
Originally Posted by
Mike Phillips
Doe the surface look almost textured? Not a rough texture but just not flat?
No texture at all - just some degree of waviness all over. Even with 1000 there are still some pinholes too, besides the waves. He said the car had 2 gallons of clear applied to it (its a large one). It's not mirror flat - only about 80-85% there. I just don't want to eat away all the clear.
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Re: Old school vs Modern sanding
I'm not sure sure you're of car it is. I'll add a picture right now.
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Re: Old school vs Modern sanding
See questions below...
Originally Posted by
Juanito805
No texture at all - just some degree of waviness all over.
Even with 1000 there are still some pinholes too, besides the waves.
The waviness should be fixed when you hard block it.
1: What are you using for a block or backing pad?
Originally Posted by
Juanito805
He said the car had 2 gallons of clear applied to it (its a large one).
That sounds like plenty of clear to safely cut starting at #1000 grit.
2: What sanding paper are you using?
Originally Posted by
Juanito805
It's not mirror flat - only about 80-85% there.
I just don't want to eat away all the clear.
Copy that. Sounds like the goal is mirror flat though.
3: Have you sanded down the entire car or are you still dialing-in your process?
Hate to say this but I've come across paints that no matter what I've done to sand and buff - the paint NEVER gets to 100% flat like a mirror.
There's always a form of graininess to the surface.
My only theory is some portions of the paint are softer while other portions are harder - (high solids), after sanding when I buff the softer paint abrades away MORE than the harder portions leaving a grainy appearance.
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Re: Old school vs Modern sanding
The entire car done was cut with 1000, 1500, and 2000, at times with pneumatic DA and in part blocked by hand.
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