Fell for the sales pitch - Griots Garage Orbital

[PaulMys]

I read thread after thread of people singing high praises of the Griots 6".

That's why I bought it.

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I certainly appreciate that. I am a guy that reads tons of reviews as well.

But starting a thread here on AGO yields much better info than just reading reviews.

The collective knowledge here is the best in the world.

[rduchateau2954]

I should have just known better. No matter how much people like them an orbital is an orbital and it'll never be a rotary.

I certainly appreciate that. I am a guy that reads tons of reviews as well.

But starting a thread here on AGO yields much better info than just reading reviews.

The collective knowledge here is the best in the world.

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[PaulMys]

I should have just known better. No matter how much people like them an orbital is an orbital and it'll never be a rotary.

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Very true.

[MarkD51]

The problem I have with the higher end orbitals is they cost more than a rotary. That makes absolutely no sense to me. I can do everything from cutting to waxing with a rotary, I don't have issues with buffer burn, compound splatter, or any of that.

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I understand your reasoning, and have to honor your choices. Yes, I'll agree, the high end machines are quite pricey. I think many graduate to such machines as the Flex and Rupes. Probably most have the mindset of "I've had the rest, and now I want the best".

About my only bit of a gripe I have with such costly machines is wishing they had a better-longer warrantee given with them. The Griots D/A you bought comes with a lifetime warrantee. No, the Griots is not near the build quality of the Flex-Rupes, but does give the buyer some comfort in knowing the company is going to stand behind their machines and the purchase for a long time.

Sort of like buying a $9,000, or a $18,000 McIntosh Audio Amplifier(s), then only having a 3 year warrantee sometimes doesn't instill a lot of buyer confidence-assurance in some ways, even though such high build quality Amplifiers as McIntosh can usually be handed down from generation to generation.

Your choices, just like all other detailers, it comes down to personal choice and preferences, and there's no clear cut, set in stone determination of who's right, or who's wrong with their likes of any specific machine.

That fella I mentioned earlier correcting the '69 Camaro SS, I strongly doubt he'll ever convert-switch to a D/A either.

I reckon there's a number of ways to skin a Cat. Same with detailing and doing paint correction. If one gets to the same point in the end, and with the same desired end results, I guess that's what's ultimately counts.

[MarkD51]

I've never used any of the Griots Polishes to comment how they are? Seems that they are good products from reading other's reviews-comments about the latest line that they now make.

Due to your past experience, and I'll assume a good deal of hands on experience, I'd probably be correct to say you've seen and done a lot more than me.

Without blathering too much, I'm sure you've noted that you cannot "edge" an Orbital D/A like a Rotary. That there's no debate that every free spinning D/A will fall flat on its face when attempting a method which can be employed with a Rotary Machine.

Other observations would be that with the scratches still there to the degree that they were, then going to a milder perfecting cream from a more aggressive polish-compound surely wasn't going to get it. That follow up and additional use with the coarser product on hand was no doubt still needed before moving on.

You mention your use of using 3M products in the past, and I have used many of theirs myself over many years. They have a vast list, and just wanted to say there's basically no harm-foul of using whatever chemical products you personally like and are accustomed to and have good experience with.

These Griots Products, while I have not tried them, may be only suited for the removal of less than substantial paint damage, and more engineered towards the removal of wash induced marring-swirling, light oxidation, and other minor anomalies rather than the removal of deeper RIDS, Water Spotting, Heavy Oxidation, etc.

It of course takes experience and a trained eye to see how a specific product and process is working in regards of removing paint damage of the various types. It's why Mike Phillips our forum guru-expert here, and wise other detailers will suggest the "Test Spot" method to find what works properly and best per any given situation. No harm-foul of a need to repeat a process again to remove deeper isolated scratches, provided those more aggressive attempts do not leave behind permanent damage that then cannot be removed-rectified with further finessing steps.

You may achieve better results by first "working" on these isolated scratches by hand with a compound or very light-mild wet sanding, then coming behind again with the D/A? The D/A should be able to remove 3000 or 2000 grit wet sanding marks no problemo.

As for the Rotary and again acquiring and using one, of course, why not!? You may be able to find a nice used one on a local hometown classifieds, or other sources thus saving some substantial money in the process. Or perhaps borrow one temporarily from a friend?

[DEwalt]

I removed some fairly deep scratches with my Griot's DA. I ran 4" Boss pads using Menzerna heavy cut. I'm wondering if you need a heavier cutting polish?

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[DaveT435]

I read thread after thread of people singing high praises of the Griots 6".

That's why I bought it.

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It is a good machine, I agree with everyone else that a 5" plate and pads are the way to go. I may have an extra 5" plate I can send you. If I don't have the plate I just bought 18 new pads so Incan send you some 5" boss pads so you can keep your cost down on seeing if the 5" setup gives you what you need. Nothing wrong with the pads I would sent you, I just have a lot of them and I'm trying out some new pads.

[rduchateau2954]

I've never used any of the Griots Polishes to comment how they are? Seems that they are good products from reading other's reviews-comments about the latest line that they now make.

Due to your past experience, and I'll assume a good deal of hands on experience, I'd probably be correct to say you've seen and done a lot more than me.

Without blathering too much, I'm sure you've noted that you cannot "edge" an Orbital D/A like a Rotary. That there's no debate that every free spinning D/A will fall flat on its face when attempting a method which can be employed with a Rotary Machine.

Other observations would be that with the scratches still there to the degree that they were, then going to a milder perfecting cream from a more aggressive polish-compound surely wasn't going to get it. That follow up and additional use with the coarser product on hand was no doubt still needed before moving on.

You mention your use of using 3M products in the past, and I have used many of theirs myself over many years. They have a vast list, and just wanted to say there's basically no harm-foul of using whatever chemical products you personally like and are accustomed to and have good experience with.

These Griots Products, while I have not tried them, may be only suited for the removal of less than substantial paint damage, and more engineered towards the removal of wash induced marring-swirling, light oxidation, and other minor anomalies rather than the removal of deeper RIDS, Water Spotting, Heavy Oxidation, etc.

It of course takes experience and a trained eye to see how a specific product and process is working in regards of removing paint damage of the various types. It's why Mike Phillips our forum guru-expert here, and wise other detailers will suggest the "Test Spot" method to find what works properly and best per any given situation. No harm-foul of a need to repeat a process again to remove deeper isolated scratches, provided those more aggressive attempts do not leave behind permanent damage that then cannot be removed-rectified with further finessing steps.

You may achieve better results by first "working" on these isolated scratches by hand with a compound or very light-mild wet sanding, then coming behind again with the D/A? The D/A should be able to remove 3000 or 2000 grit wet sanding marks no problemo.

As for the Rotary and again acquiring and using one, of course, why not!? You may be able to find a nice used one on a local hometown classifieds, or other sources thus saving some substantial money in the process. Or perhaps borrow one temporarily from a friend?

The reason I went to a milder polishing cream and then later to a wax was simply because after multiple passes in each direction with varying amounts of pressure (I'm talking from just enough to keep the machine on the paint to almost to the point of stalling) I knew the scratch wasn't coming out with what I had on had.

After that point I still wanted to test the polish an wax. I've demo'd some polishes from vedors in the past that looked absolutely amazing when first applied, easy on, completely removed cutting burns, deep color etc only to have all the defects return a week or so later because the polish was just fillers and didn't actually polish.

To help paint a better picture of how bad my poor truck has gotten, I was beginning to see buffer swirl from when the dealership buffed it prior to me buying it... 4 years ago. I debadged the doors and tailgate not long after buying it and those "shadows" where also starting to become visible.

The truck has been through 1 thunderstorm, sitting in constant sunlight, and will be washed again today. If the Griots compounds are more filler than compound, I should be able to start to see evidence after the wash.

I dunno if that makes sense or not.

The reason I like 3m is because I had a vendor that sold 3m. A lot of the stuff I see y'all using is retail stuff, things I've never used.

I had vendors, they'd stop by or I'd call every so often and I'd get what I needed. I never used off the shelf products. Same with new products that whatever company they were peddling for came out with. They'd give me a sample of whatever, I'd demo it on the shop truck and go from there.

As far as wet sanding I'm really hesitant about doing anything like that without a rotary on hand, nothing I've seen from this orbital inspires enough confidence that I won't be driving around a truck with shiney, sanded panels.

As far as a rotary, yes I should get one, it's just a pretty steep investment for something I'm not going to use real often.

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[rduchateau2954]

I removed some fairly deep scratches with my Griot's DA. I ran 4" Boss pads using Menzerna heavy cut. I'm wondering if you need a heavier cutting polish?

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That's possible. The problem I'm having right now is trying to decide what to do.

Option A) Return the machine, eat the shipping costs, and give the pads and compounds away. $250 ish dollar initial cost, I'd get $150 of that back minus shipping. Although part of that $250 was wax.

Option B) Keep it, throw more money at in in pads, backing plates, compounds, and hope they work.

Option C) Put it all in a box, put the box in a corner, cry for a bit, and order a rotary setup.

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[rduchateau2954]

It is a good machine, I agree with everyone else that a 5" plate and pads are the way to go. I may have an extra 5" plate I can send you. If I don't have the plate I just bought 18 new pads so Incan send you some 5" boss pads so you can keep your cost down on seeing if the 5" setup gives you what you need. Nothing wrong with the pads I would sent you, I just have a lot of them and I'm trying out some new pads.

Well lemme ask you this; if I'm going for maximum oomph wouldn't a 3" backing plate and cutting pad be the way to go?

Don't get me wrong, I really appreciate the offer, I'm just trying to limit how much more money I stick into this in case it's all for nought.

Thanks,
Ryan

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