Need HELP Color Sanding and Buffing - SPI UV Clear

[57BORNTORUN]

You could also call Kevin at Southern Polyurethane Inc. (SPI) It`s his formula of clear coat and nobody knows better his products than he.Easy guy to talk to as well.

[GSKR]

You could also call Kevin at Southern Polyurethane Inc. (SPI) It`s his formula of clear coat and nobody knows better his products than he.Easy guy to talk to as well.

Agree go to the source for info.Like I said if no one is present with you,everything is just speculation and ideas.call the people who make the stuff.

[BobS531]

Agree go to the source for info.Like I said if no one is present with you,everything is just speculation and ideas.call the people who make the stuff.

Thanks 57borntorun and GSKR, I have spoken with Barry multiple times and he has been very helpful. However, he did tell me that he does not do a lot of compounding. Also as you mentioned, it is difficult with out someone in person.

[Mantilgh]

I don't know if I should be giving advice on this because I have little experience with a rotary, but you would think 105 and a wool pad would clear that up.

I've only done minor scratch removal with 1500 and 2000 grit and it usually levels out pretty quick with a compound and an aggressive foam pad on a DA polisher.

I wonder if your pad cleaning technique has anything to do with it?

Maybe leftover moisture making the compound less effective.

[BobS531]

Hi All,
By way of an update, I finished buffing out with the M205 and removed all the masking. I had been leaving the masking on to help with the clean up. Enclosed are a couple of pictures showing the truck outside in the sunshine today. It looks great outside and way more than adequate for a daily driver. The texture is not visible in normal lighting with out a straight edge type light to see it (ie tube light). And even then, you have to look extremely close. It is not visible with any kind of point light source like what would be used to see swirls.

As I said earlier, this is the best paint job I have ever done. (I have done a half dozen since I was 16 yrs old, but this is the first base clear). But I am a perfectionist and on a classic car which will be my next project, I would strive to do even better. I think the path to get there is to sand with even higher grits like up to 5000 grit. (Hey, there is a reason they make it). I also believe that an air powered finishing DA would provide an even better finish, because of the more random and less straight line sanding pattern.

The other thing I have noticed is that the 1000 grit removed the orange peel, but now with the peel gone, you can see the urethane wave. I have read of people starting with 600 grit to remove the wave and truly flatten the surface. (Obviously you would need enough clear to allow for that).

And for those who wonder why someone would put so much work into a truck like this? Good question, I always loved this truck, and I hated to lose it to the rust bugs. I am confident that my work will last longer than the original. I put paint in all the spots that the manufacturer does not (inside the rockers, inside doors, inside and out of the frame, underneath the cab and box, etc…. all the places that really matter when it comes to rust… And it turned out to be a lot more work than I thought (4 years so far). I probably would not have done it if I had known it would be this much work.



If any restoration types run across this thread, I am still interested in the details of how to do a show car quality cut and buff..