1993 Nissan Skyline GT-R (Godzilla!!)

[HABU32]

Well, this is my 1993 Nissan Skyline GT-R in Crystal White (code 326). I just bought the car about a month ago. As you'll see by the pics, it's by far perfect. In fact, in my opinion, exterior wise I have a LOT to do before I can be completely satisfied with it's appearance. There will have to be some minor body work and painting done on top of the correcting.



What I've ordered thus far is:
Menzerna Porter Cable XP Maximum Shine Kit which includes:
PC 7424XP
Menz FG400
Menz SF4000
Menz Color Lock Carnuba Wax
And necessary pads, cleaner and bonnets
Chemical Guys Medium Clay (gray)
Blackfire clay lubricant

I also ordered Blackfire's Wet Diamond Shampoo for my free gift.

This is just to help get me started and get some of the nastiness off the car. It's been fairly neglected exteriorwise, interior is pretty good, engine bay is....meh and trunk is actually in pretty damn good shape. I plan to order more products that I hope will help correct and protect the paint until I get it repainted someday. I also don't have a garage to park it in to protect it from the elements, but I do at least have a carport of sorts to park it under. Being that the climate here is very hot and it rains a lot and of course we're near the ocean, i'm leaning toward a sealer when I do the actual good correction. From what I've read and understood so far, a sealer seems to last much longer and protect better than just a straight up wax. But, please, correct me if i'm misunderstanding this from reading.


First up I have a pic of the hood and front bumper with the lip.



Lip - has typical scratches, scrapes, cuts, knicks, bruises, etc.



This is the hood, part of it has this strange shaped... I guess it's a stain or beginning of clearcoat failure. I really don't know how to explain it, nor classify it. This is the best pic I could get of it, if you look toward the right half of the picture, you might be able to see what i'm talking about, where it's kind of hazy and like someone wetsanded it a tiny bit and then just left it.



I don't think I can get a good enough pic of it from any angle, but i'll try again. And it has a few chips that have been touched up as well, poorly I might add. It also has a nice little crease/dent that will eventually have to be fixed as best as can be until I either get a new OEM hood or just go with a carbon fiber hood (that WILL be painted, not into that non painted CF look sorry).

Next up are the fenders, they too have a few scratches, chips. Fun fact, that I didn't know, GT-R fenders are aluminum alloy. I figured they'd be stamped steel or whatever like most other cars. So, at least these chips and scratches won't rust!
But, the passenger side one does have what appears to be the same fading of clearcoat (i'm guessing that's what's going on here in the pic). I'm hoping i'm wrong and it's just grease or dirt embedded in the clear and can come off with a clay bar. Long story, but it was not there when I dropped the car off a few weeks ago to get an oil leak fixed. I picked it up and noticed it once home, they'll probably deny doing it if I mention it Friday when I drop it off again. So i'm kinda S.O.L. on this one.







Another area of concern to me is the spot on the roof, near the rain channel part. I don't believe it's too bad at the moment, but just like any car with small bits of rust, it'll get worse quick if not attended to. There's also a spot near the passenger side rocker that I didn't take a pic of, i'll do one another time, that's been touched up rather half arsed, that has rust poking through that has my attention as well. My plan is to take care of these with something that is rather shunned in most auto collision groups, but I had rather excellent results with said products and i'm going to use it on these spots that need painting. I'll save that for another time, mainly when I have it ordered and in hand with pics, haha.



The rear bumper isn't too bad at all really, there's small chip/chunk part by the exhaust tip that is past the paint and to the plastic. It's not too bad unless you get up close and down at a certain angle, to notice it. But I know it's there, so it annoys me and needs fixed!



The trunk is pretty straight for the most part too, with the only really noticeable thing being by the GT-R badge, it has a few scratches, one that is deep enough to get some rust going on. So, i'll probably buy a new badge, take this one off and do something fancy with it (maybe make a necklace with it, haha) and fix this spot and put on a new badge. It's missing the rear "NISSAN" badge as well and I feel it's kinda naked without it. I mean... how's anybody gonna know it's a Nissan without that emblem?!



The other area i'm concered with is the wing. It has more of that dirt look and dullness. And around certain crevices, much like a lot of parts of the car like around trim, it's very dirty/grubby looking. Not sure how to address this either, except to remove the wing and maybe even the lip underneath, clean the piss outta it and put new seals and gaskets on. That'll ensure no water's leaking down into the trunk lid and trunk and making a haven for rust! And these cars do love to rust in the trunk and under the trunk lid near the back window.
There's also a nice crack in the wing, on the side facing the rear window. From what I can tell, it's just paint, not the actual stand that's cracked, but i'll inspect it further once I take it off. If it is cracked, i'll see if I can locate a used one on the cheap and/or just fix this one if my skills are up to that level.









Lastly, I need to take the wheels off and give them a super good cleaning. A few have some minor curb rash from the previous owner(s), so i'll see if I can fix that up a bit. I love the Enkei RPF01's. One of my favorite style wheels. They're 17's, which is nice for future brake upgrades. I am debating on painting them, but again, that'll be toward the end. I'd like to pick up a set of stock 16" wheels to throw on any time I want to do anything I wouldn't want damaging these Enkei's as well.
Another thing i'm trying to decide on if it should stay or go is the black rubber fender protectors. I kinda dig the look and i'm sure they help with protecting from rocks and other debris flying up and putting chips (that would eventually turn into rust!) in the paint. But, I feel they're also letting dirt and other gunk get up in there settle in and may actually be digging into the paint and doing damage anyway. Plus, I need to see if there are chips already there that are covered and are just eating away at the metal and i'm unaware.



So, as you can see, I like to type a lot, sorry bout that. And you can see that from afar, the car looks pretty damn good, but up close, it's a different story. And of course, because the oil leak they said they fixed is not fixed, along with a nice new power steering fluid leak at the reservoir, old gal is going back to the dealership to make use of the amazingly long 90 day warranty before I have to start shelling out my own hard earned cash and time to fix it myself. Which means I won't be doing any correcting until I get her back and get my order in.
By all means, if anyone has any suggestions on other products to try, to fix this stuff or just tips, that's why i'm here. I normally stick with all of one product, kind of like painting or parts, they usually work well together. But, sometimes a brand doesn't have what you need or not all of their products are worth a crap. So, i'm all ears!

Thanks for viewing.

[HABU32]

So, finally after almost a year of building up on supplies, I finally have pretty much everything I want to do a full detail on this car (shipping is kinda pricey to Okinawa).

Only thing that has changed with the car since I made this thread is that I've got rid of the stock trunk with wing and N1 spoiler and picked up another trunklid and N1 style spoiler, had it painted and installed by a local shop here in Okinawa. What I did today on the rest of the car, I didn't do on this, as i'm not sure if it's ok to be doing this stuff on it or not, from what I've researched, it seems 50/50. So, I just washed it and put quick detail wax on it, nothing more.

Products I used today (and it was my first time using all of them as well as using a DA):
PC 7424 with Lake Country CCS 5.5" green pad
BlackFire Wet Diamond Conditioning Shampoo
Sonax Wheel Cleaner Xtreme
CarPro Iron-X Lemon Scent (as mentioned by others, smells bad, but not too bad)
BlackFire Clay Bar lubricant
Chemical Guys Medium grade clay bar
XMT-360 AIO
1Z Gummi Pflege

Started with Sonax, rinse of entire car and washed



Washed, rinsed, dried, applied Iron-X and then rinsed. Not sure if there really was that much contamination, but it looked like it found quite a bit.



I then clayed the entire car. I was careful to avoid such areas as shown below, i'm guessing that this is good practice? Places where clear is starting to fail or areas that have scratches/gouges down to primer. I also can still not get rid of the mysterious black staining or whatever it is around the trim. Some did come off while claying, but I didn't want to hurt the paint scrubbing at it, maybe it won't hurt it, i'll get better pics and maybe someone can chime in on what it might be and a way to get rid of it.






I then wiped the entire car down and began to use the XMT. Took me a while to get the hang of using the DA and remembering to not lift up the pad until it was finished moving. Had to clean splatters a few times, haha. I will say, even though the XMT says it's low on dust, it sure did leave a lot. And though it says not necessary, I still wiped off the XMT after with a microfiber cloth.



I feel the trunk picture is misleading though, as like I previously mentioned, it's fresh paint and was just washed and spray waxed. But most of the car did look like this. I finished off the trunklid and a few areas i didn't have time to use XMT on with some Turtle Wax quick spray wax, just to protect it until next weekend when i have time to do the entire car properly, was on a bit of a time crunch and i have more "testing" to do.

Now, to my opinions on the products I used.

The Sonax, does really good, loved it.

The BlackFire shampoo, worked nicely as well, but not as sudsy as I thought it'd be.

The Iron-X, not sure if it did anything, but looked like it did.

The CG clay bar, worked great, but was so dang sticky, it was hard to keep it from sticking from my hands and fingers and I had a hard time getting it pliable enough to flatten down for a while. I think next time I make an order, i'm gonna try a Nanoskin wash mit, seems to be easier and works just as well from what I've researched. The BlackFire spray lube was nice though, smelled like coconut, haha.

The Gummi Pflege was my favorite product used, it seemed to really give life back to the trim and rubber weather stripping. Though the applicator sponge was hard to get into small areas, but I managed. All the places i used it on just ended up looking brand new, I hope it lasts a long time.

The XMT360, here's where i'm torn and confused. Although the paint feels really smooth and it's nice and shiny, i'm not sure if it was the fact it was an AIO and it can only do so much or that I was doing something wrong. Maybe a combo of both? I read Mikes articles about AIO's on dark colored vehicles and how it can help remove swirls and holorgrams, but can leave micrmarring scratches. Of course this car is white, so it might not show as badly, but I guess I notice them more now. I hope that it was not some sort of newb error and I actually did end up doing something wrong. I just see a lot of scratches, maybe they were there all along and now that I've cleaned things up a bit, they're more apparent? For example, if you can even see, in the reflection of the light, scratches like this all over the hood and roof. It was hard to pick up on the camera, but they are abundant.


I honestly don't know what micromarring looks like, so i'm not sure if this is or is not. If it is and it was the byproduct of the AIO, I can live with that, til I do an actual multistep correction. But, if it's something I did, I hope someone on here can give me a good idea of what I did, so I can NOT do it again. I don't think it was the XMT, but i'm wondering if another AIO would do better? I have some 3D HD Speed as well, I was thinking of washing and either claying or using Iron-X again next weekend and using the HD Speed, to see what that might do. Or would that be a waste of time?

I appreciate any and all feedback. Sorry again for another novel, hopefully nobody falls asleep.

[1fastTbird]

An AOI can only perform so much correction. They work well for bringing well kept cars back up to a nice shine. But if a vehicle's paint has been neglected then you might need to step it up to a more aggressive compound. I do understand your predicament considering that you already have clear oat failure. If you go with compound, I really like Menzerna FG400.

[kosmetikwerks]

Beauty!!! Love the R32 GT-R!!

I'd second that an AIO product can only do so much. Depending on how you'd like to finish with just an AIO depends on cut level. More aggressive pad won't finish as fine as if you were to use polishing pad with AIO.
From your last picture and understanding your clear coat issues I'd try Menz fg400 to remove defects then redo with your current AOI(being as you already have the product) Using the PC is pretty safe and your unlikely to generate enough heat to cause any damage. Go over the spots without issues. If you keep disturbing the spots with failure you'll eventually end up with no clear at all.

This being said.. Looking at the hood shot and zooming in it seems to be lacking clarity. Not sure if its just the way the picture was taken but it almost looks as if the hood was re-painted at some point. Almost as if there's a bit of orange peel if this is the case then more aggressive steps will be needed.

[HABU32]

Thanks for the input. I might just do that, FG400 and then AIO, as i have both. Can't really hurt to try. I'm not sure what's up with the hood, it looks like towards the passenger side (that's the right side facing the pic) near the corner by the headlight, it's got a strange spot that looks like it was repainted and then poorly blended. Or it's like a crescent shaped area, about 1" wide, going from near the fender to the center of the hood and down to the nose of the hood, that kinda looks like clearcoat failure. It's hard to get a picture of it that'll show up.

I wonder if using the FG400 and HD Speed will render better results. Next time I'll use my Nikon to take better pictures.

[HABU32]

No other ideas/opinions/suggestions? Lotta views but not many replies. Should i be asking these questions elsewhere on the board? I've looked around and read numerous articles/how to's, but sometimes that just doesn't answer questions.
I'm planning to hit the entire car up again this weekend, shouldn't need to clay again I'd think, maybe just iron-x?

[chriskraft3]

So whatever happened to this project?

[HABU32]

It's still going on....shipping is expensive to Okinawa, I don't get to be included on free shipping or deals. Plus the holidays happened and i went tdy for a month.
I guess nobody could answer my questions or they just were questions already asked and I haven't found the answer/suggestions via a search.

I plan to do the full detail now that i have a shop vac to do the interior. Still dunno if it should be clayed again or not. I still have a LOT of maintenance to do on it too. Fluids, fixing the sideskirt, repaint the rocker behind that sideskirt, repaint the hood, fenders, and front lip and touch up the rear bumper and tow hooks. Then time to get it ready for the dreaded JCI....

[Joeguam]

You have a "Y" plate car which means you are a Military member serving overseas. I know the pain of being charged for shipping especially if the shipping carrier is not USPS. USPS is a military friendly carrier. Charges are usually free or at the most48 states equivalent. The military usually take over once it hits either the last port of exit (I believe it is Chicago) beyond the 48 states.

You might also want to consider checking if there are companies in Japan that carry the same goods like AGO and use your japan address. You can have to USPS assigned address converted into a physical Japan address and it will come to your USPS box on base. Or have someone buy it in the states and send it APO to FPO. You could always use a portion of that monthly COLA to pay for goods and shipping. It should make up for it.

[Joeguam]

Use a Lake Country CCS orange pad or yellow pad for the removal of the scratches then the gray for the finish. I tend to used the 4" or 5" pads more with the Porter Cable. Them Skylines have many curves on the side so I would use 3" pads. So you would need smaller backing plates to accommodate the pads I just mentioned. Just my opinion and good luck.