Headlight sealant: spar urethane vs. opti coat 2.0

[ray6]

I believe the Coat2Protect is a poly, so shelf life would be dependent on a number of factors, the most important being storage container, temperature and amount of oxygen in a partially filled bottle.

We used to sell a similar product (I think it was similar) with a stamped shelf life of 1 year, but it really is a function of the above variables. When it gets old, it will start to thicken and eventually harden.

Their water based coating isn't as sensitive and doesn't cure by oxygen so I would think the shelf life would be much greater than solvent based polys.

I would never use a suspect coating on a customer's car.
ray6

[HotRod]

9.5 month update car #2 Chevy Malibu

Even though spar urethane is not a superior sealant for lights, I am still going on with this experiment to help those that are interested and have an open mind. I am not opposed to professional light coatings, but if you are doing a high number of restorations then invest in a pro system. I am not trying to steer anyone in any direction, I am just being honest and posting my results. Choose a method you like and stick with it. The whole reason I brought this to AG from another poster on a different forum was to help people out on a limited budget and still produce better results than just using wax or a basic paint sealant. In my experience it does produce long lasting results, but every sealant will fail. When the spar fails, its incredibly easy to lightly sand any remaining protection and recoat the lens. Spar does have a learning curve and is not for every climate.

That being said here is my latest findings................

This test vehicle still looks really good, it is carported part of the time, but is daily driven to work and sits outside for that time period. And does receive cleanings more often than test vehicle #1 the Grand Marquis(which is failing much quicker). When I applied the opti coat to the last two vehicles, I put it on a little heavier than the Grand Marquis, maybe thats why its lasting longer or the fact that they are taken care of better. And I also was much more thorough with my prep before sealant application on the Pt Cruiser and Malibu.

Here are some pictures taken earlier today:

Opti coated light 9.5 months



As you can clearly see, Opti coat is holding up very nicely, no signs of deterioration whatsoever.

Spar treated light 9.5 months



The spar is still holding up as well. Both lens look just as good as the day I did them. The sun reflection makes the picture look a little weird but the lens look good.

[GP49]

HotRod, let me THANK YOU for conceiving this thread. I appreciate that you've brought the amateurs here (among whom I count myself) an effective way to preserve our headlights. If it were up to some around here, it'd be a matter of "you polished 'em, so what...only us "professionals" have a way to make 'em last longer than a week." The Spar Urethane may not last as long as the UV-catalyzed hard clearcoats that they use; but for those who put their own time and loving care into their own cars, the information that has been shared here has been valuable and very much welcomed. Incidentally, I believe that there is NO reason why distribution of so-called "professional" products should be restricted to those "in the trade." Anyone wanting them should be able to buy them; their money is as good as anyone else's.

[BillE]

HotRod,

Again I say, Thank You!

I (as many) really appreciate what you have done and shown.

Bill

[ray6]

There's no restriction to buying headlight coatings that I'm aware of, other than the fact that they come in larger packages usually costing more than $100. Some coatings are distributed through local distributors and there may be requirements from them, but anyone can buy them and they are easy to find and buy on the internet. Some are good, some are snake oil.

Using the spar/ms method is widespread and some of the so called professional products are almost the same thing. Personally, I am not a big fan of this technique if you are restoring headlights for money because I think you can get a much longer lifetime with other products. I would think you could sell a restoration job much easier if you can offer a written warranty.

The only advantage I can see with the spar method is it's easy to get (in some areas) and inexpensive, but cost shouldn't be a factor if you're restoring for money.

All the costs of headlight restoration is in the prep stages; stripping, sanding, cleaning, etc. The coating is a minute or two. If you look at the material cost, it might be 25 cents per headlight with the spar, or a dollar for a better coating.

Some coatings require taping, masking, UV curing, etc. Some do not. Some are water based (can be shipped by air) and some are solvent based.

I offer tips on using the spar method and will continue to do so, but if you are trying to develop a business model around restoring headlights, you should look at all possibilities, including different coatings and methods.
ray6

[ray6]

I may of stirred up a hornet's nest by calling some products PRO.

Let's call them alternative coatings.

There is a common misconception that alternative coatings are special or hard to work with or cannot be purchased by just anyone. It's true that some need to be sprayed, some cured with UV, etc., but they're simply chemical mixtures optimized to protect the polycarbonate from UV. Also contain chemicals to self level on vertical surfaces.Nothing special.

Think of them as clear coats with extra UV adsorbers and formulated to apply to porous material like polycarbonate without dissolving it. They are expensive because the ingredients used (especially the UV adsorbers) are expensive; like $500 per gallon, but you'll likely use less than 1/10 of an ounce per headlight.

There are some great coatings available that are wipe-on, just like the spar/ms. Others are more geared to auto body shops with UV, bake, spray capabilities, etc.

When you start researching these coatings, many manufacturers will infer that you really need to buy and use their system or kit to get good results. This isn't true.

To get a professional looking restoration, you need to remove the old coating and replace it with a new one.

How you remove the old coating has little to do with the final coating you use, with the following exceptions:

Some coatings fill in better than others, so your final coat will require a specific level of prep. Most wipe on coatings (including spar/ms) fill well (1500 grit and up).

Spray on and thinner coatings do not. You'll have to finish to a smoother level first.

You don't want to sand any more than required because most of these coatings will adhere better to a roughened surface.

The other concern is chemical compatibility between your prep and the final coating, but this issue can usually be avoided by scrubbing the headlight with alcohol to remove any residue and moisture.

In general,most any of these coatings can be integrated with your current system. If you're happy with your current prep system of removing the old coating, you shouldn't have to change that.

If you're happy with the spar/ms, stick with it, but try to optimize it to meet weather conditions and lay down as thick a coating as you can.The thicker the coating, the longer it will last.

When researching alternative coatings, here are some tips:

Does it require spraying?
Do I need a compressor?

Do I need UV lights?
Exposure to sunlight or using UV lamps is the same thing.

Do I need to mask?
Masking adds time to your restoration.

Does it have a good reputation or recommendations from other headlight restorers?
What do other say?

Does it need 1 coat or 2?
Some water based coatings require 2 coats to get sufficient thickness, but cure in less than 5 minutes.

How long will it last?
This is a loaded question, but most of these coatings should last at least 2 years average.

Is it hazardous? (shipping restrictions)

Are MSDS availabe?

Can it be shipped cheaply? (water based vs. solvent based).
Most of the best coatings cannot be shipped by air or internationally.

What does it cost per headlight?
Keep in mind that many vendors fib a bit about how many headlights you can do per can, oz., etc. Spray cans usually yield about 1/3 of the material on the headlight. 1/3 is propellant and spraying is about 50% efficient. But even if they over rate, your actual coat per headlight will probably be a small fraction of your restoration cost, usually less than a dollar per headlight.

One advantage of some of these alternative coatings is that less prep time is required, lowering your labor costa and increasing your profit margin.


As an aside,some of you may be having issues applying wax/polish to previously restored headlights.

They seem to cloud up quickly.It could be a chemical reaction between the coating and your wax. Spar is fairly soft when young and easily dissolved by many solvents.

These coatings are out there and easy to find with a little homework, but remember this is AG's website so we shouldn't get too specific. They're doing us a favor by allowing us to share information and we should respect that. Their house, their rules.
ray6

[MCA]

Ray -

Not meaning to derail the great discussion at hand but I (and many others I'm sure) am very grateful for the knowledge and experience that you are sharing with us. You have been very professional, thorough and candid in your responses. Thanks again...

[ray6]

Ray -

Not meaning to derail the great discussion at hand but I (and many others I'm sure) am very grateful for the knowledge and experience that you are sharing with us. You have been very professional, thorough and candid in your responses. Thanks again...

Thanks.
ray6

[kamlung]

thanks for this writeup hotrod... i finally got around to attempt this last weekend but i am still getting massive streaking... i think i am laying it on too thick... and even after a few hours, the coating was still tacky to the touch... will give another go this weekend and see how it goes...

[mikek753]

hi all,

my spar treatment after all that time shows holes and I need to redo.
Any helps how to remove old spar to apply new 50/50 spar for another year or two?
Should I use liqueur thinner to remove old spar?
Will I need re buff headlamps?

thanks.