Headlight restoration 50/50.

**ExpressDetail** · 06-02-2011, 10:29 PM

Very Nice outcome. Glad to see you use your noggin.

**MDetail** · 06-03-2011, 05:57 PM

Thats some sweet work right there. I need to try this out on my TSX headlights even though they are just slightly chipped. I remember when I used to have my performance shop and the bodyshop next door would throw away perfectly good headlights, I would go pick them up and restore them. They would look at me like I was crazy. Good job.

**Part-timer** · 06-03-2011, 08:06 PM

Here are some lights I've done using Hotrods method.
It seems the worse off they are originally, the better they look when your done. (Or, the more of the original coating that is oxidized, the easier they are to sand and the better they are when your finished) The ones I have trouble with are the ones that still have most of the original coating that is good but the top of the lense is oxidized and looks bad. The two used car lots I work with demand a swirl free look/finish. So far, I've been pains-takingly using a coarse grit to totally remove the "good" coating so that I can assure an even look across the whole lens. Another member advised me to try leaving the "good" coating alone and only try to fix the bad top part, then wet sand with 3000 the entire lens and apply a new coating to the whole lens. I have an expedition to do in the morning that only the top part is bad. I'm going to try this method to see if I can blend the good and bad parts without removing the "good" coating. Wish me luck. I unfortunately do not have the advantage of being a bodyman(sucks to be me...lol) just an 22 year auto mechanic.....lol (I hope these pictures show up on the post. My first time with this type stuff)

**93fox** · 06-03-2011, 08:54 PM

Originally Posted by Part-timer

Here are some lights I've done using Hotrods method.
It seems the worse off they are originally, the better they look when your done. (Or, the more of the original coating that is oxidized, the easier they are to sand and the better they are when your finished) The ones I have trouble with are the ones that still have most of the original coating that is good but the top of the lense is oxidized and looks bad. The two used car lots I work with demand a swirl free look/finish. So far, I've been pains-takingly using a coarse grit to totally remove the "good" coating so that I can assure an even look across the whole lens. Another member advised me to try leaving the "good" coating alone and only try to fix the bad top part, then wet sand with 3000 the entire lens and apply a new coating to the whole lens. I have an expedition to do in the morning that only the top part is bad. I'm going to try this method to see if I can blend the good and bad parts without removing the "good" coating. Wish me luck. I unfortunately do not have the advantage of being a bodyman(sucks to be me...lol) just an 22 year auto mechanic.....lol (I hope these pictures show up on the post. My first time with this type stuff)

This method without polishing is alot better. Im 100% sure its more effective and will hold on A LOT longer. Now what i really want to see is how long will they last before they turn yellow again... hmmm.

**Wills.WindowsAndWheels** · 06-03-2011, 09:34 PM

Originally Posted by 93fox

This method without polishing is alot better. Im 100% sure its more effective and will hold on A LOT longer. Now what i really want to see is how long will they last before they turn yellow again... hmmm.

Well the guy who originally posted the spar urethane idea had posts up well over a year after first doing them with no problem and that was WITH compounding so we'll see...

**93fox** · 06-03-2011, 09:59 PM

Originally Posted by Wills.WindowsAndWheels

Well the guy who originally posted the spar urethane idea had posts up well over a year after first doing them with no problem and that was WITH compounding so we'll see...

I am sure this method will last alot longer that compounding. After i tested this method, and compared it to the steps taken to paint a car, compounding just seems pointless.

**Rei86** · 06-03-2011, 10:21 PM

Originally Posted by 93fox

I am sure this method will last alot longer that compounding. After i tested this method, and compared it to the steps taken to paint a car, compounding just seems pointless.

well keep us up to date with a new post in 2012

**WRAPT C5Z06** · 06-03-2011, 10:37 PM

Nice job, Oscar!

I thought I read somewhere that you could apply the urethane after sanding with 1500 grit?

**C. Charles Hahn** · 06-03-2011, 10:46 PM

Originally Posted by 07 z-oh-6

Nice job, Oscar!

I thought I read somewhere that you could apply the urethane after sanding with 1500 grit?

The spar goes on pretty thin if you reduce it down; I'd imagine you might need a couple coats for proper coverage. Haven't tried that yet.

Automotive Clear, on the other hand, should fill 1500 grit scratches with relative ease.

**93fox** · 06-03-2011, 11:27 PM

Originally Posted by Rei86

well keep us up to date with a new post in 2012

thanks for the tip! i sure will keep people updated!

Originally Posted by 07 z-oh-6

Nice job, Oscar!

I thought I read somewhere that you could apply the urethane after sanding with 1500 grit?

Thanks Mark! i have to try it at 1500 and see if any scratches are still visible. at 3000 grit there werent any sand scratches visible at all.

Originally Posted by Shiny Lil Detlr

The spar goes on pretty thin if you reduce it down; I'd imagine you might need a couple coats for proper coverage. Haven't tried that yet.

Automotive Clear, on the other hand, should fill 1500 grit scratches with relative ease.

Yes Charlie it is reduced. Its one part urethane and one part mineral spirits. it goes down super smooth and thin. so far only one coat covers everything and does pretty well with just one quote.

On the other hand, automotive clear should be applied over 1000grit finish on headlights. 1500 is too risky for the clear to adhere well. Im sure it will lay down nice but the chances of it failing after time are high.