Headlight restoration 50/50.

[93fox]

wow fox they look real good! so you sanded then coated no polishing? how did they clear up from the 3000grit sand marks?

Thats correct bro, no polishing at all. I just wiped the urethane mix on top of the 3000 grit scratches and that is the results you see!

[Garry Dean]

Thats funny, lol


Nice work. After the UTB thread I wasnt sure what to think of you. Seems like you had some good ideas here. Nice work, my friend.

[93fox]

Thats funny, lol


Nice work. After the UTB thread I wasnt sure what to think of you. Seems like you had some good ideas here. Nice work, my friend.

Im going to take your bumping crown away from you! Haha but thanks! I did this headlight to carry around to show potential customers a before and after in person. Not just in pics.

[C. Charles Hahn]

I'm guessing that the urethane filled the micro scratches and leveled them...making them invisible.

No different than leaving some "tooth" for mechanical adhesion when applying regular paint/clear coat.

Which, incidentally, I still think I'd prefer a couple coats of a good automotive clear coat as opposed to the spar urethane. It's thicker, probably much more UV resistant, and thus would last even longer.

Only advantages I see with this method are that it's cheaper and doesn't need to be sprayed -- which is great for wholesale and volume jobs but not necessarily the best choice for retail work.

[93fox]

No different than leaving some "tooth" for mechanical adhesion when applying regular paint/clear coat.

Which, incidentally, I still think I'd prefer a couple coats of a good automotive clear coat as opposed to the spar urethane. It's thicker, probably much more UV resistant, and thus would last even longer.

Only advantages I see with this method are that it's cheaper and doesn't need to be sprayed -- which is great for wholesale and volume jobs but not necessarily the best choice for retail work.

100% correct charlie. The best and only true way is spraying some actual clear. a good 3 coats should be more than perfect. ive done alot of headlights spraying clear on them. ive tinted headlights and tail lights as well since its become a trend as well. While i know that is the true and correct way of doing it. ive found this method to be good for on the spot headlight repair. i dont need cover the entire car, or remove the headlights. Alot of people are more willing to pay $35 to $40 for on the spot repair. For the results to be lasting 2 years plus i think its a very good effective way. but surely not compared to some actual clear.

[BillE]

Oscar,

Makes total sense!!!

Thanx for the reminder on 'tooth'.

Bill

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

After reading a TON on Opti-Coat 2.0...it really is looking like a great new option to seal headlights...more expensive yes but you figure you do one set of lights and the tube is paid for...that stuff really does seem to hold up to the hype...but until i can afford it ill stick with the spar

[93fox]

After reading a TON on Opti-Coat 2.0...it really is looking like a great new option to seal headlights...more expensive yes but you figure you do one set of lights and the tube is paid for...that stuff really does seem to hold up to the hype...but until i can afford it ill stick with the spar

the spar is what i used here.... with no polishing and look at the results that i got.

[Kristopher1129]

I've been doing my headlights this way for quite a while now. It does work without compound or polish.

[93fox]

I've been doing my headlights this way for quite a while now. It does work without compound or polish.

IMO its more quicker than using compound. you also reduce the risk of burning the edge of any panels around the headlights. sometimes its also annyoing to get the pad into some headlights. Thats why i find this way to be more effective AND im 100% sure it bonds better than polishing first.