Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

[Calendyr]

Thanks!

[Part-timer]

Thanks Mike,

I will try again.
BTW I feel it is run-out the spar during the coat from left to right.

The mistakes most beginners make is taking too much time with application and the mix. I've been using the spar method 3 years now. I live in Florida and work outside so the weather(temp., wind, humidity) all affect the mix and application. If it is windy(which I try to avoid) I have to thin the mix slightly more or else it will start to dry and streak. Normally though I use around a 70/30 to 60/40 mix of spar/mineral spirits. As I've said, application is key. I fold a scott towel in half, Cut a strip about 2 1/2" to 3" depending on the size of the lens to be coated. Fold that in half and dip the top folded half into the mixture. It takes practice knowing how much for each sized light because if you go too heavy you have runs and too light it dries too quick and streaks(which is what most people do). I apply the coating in 10-15 seconds. This is KEY!!! I actually use a fair amount, quickly go around the outside edges and then fill the middle parts liberally with coating. Then very quickly and carefully swipe horizontally from side to side....starting from top and working down(again the towel size helps speed the process). If the mix is correct you will see some initial streaks but, they will flow(thank you gravity) and blend away within a few minutes. If they don't vanish in a few minutes, wipe it all off....add a slight bit of mineral spirits and try again. You have to get a feel for your weather, the extremely quick application and your mixing. It takes a bit of practice......keep trying, you'll find the sweet spot.

[barkeater]

learned the hard way. you don't have to.

yesterday while preping for detailing my car, I taped off the edges of the headlights with painters tape. When I removed it, some large spots where the coating came off. grrrr! It took me four tries to get it right when I did these headlights this spring. Now I have to redo them. very pissed.

[light-bright]

Ok... from my experience this may help.
1. I dont use scott blue shop towels. I use the clean up towels. They are also blue but are perforated at half sheets
2. Here in AZ, I find a 50/50 mix to be the best but when I do have issues I immediately wipe it off with OMS
3. I have had cars with very large headlights that seem to eat up the coating and make it difficult to get a great coat. In this case (when poss) I let that firat coat dry for about 30-40minutes and the coat vertically. This seems to help with small waviness.
4. I make small batches of SPAR/OMS. I have a small bottle approx 4oz that I fill and it has a dispensor cap with a small hole. Instead of dipping my towel, I dispense the oms onto the towels edge to control how much is on there.
Lastly.... I have had the issue of someone taping a lens and pulling the coating off. I was able to repair this by starting with 800wet followed by 1500 & 3000. I no longer polish after that. Clean with the oms and the recoat.

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[Henrico]

Part timer...I appreciate your very kind and practical detail explanation for the beginner. When I reach the great result with trial and error, I will post some photos. Again, you are the champion. Thanks

The mistakes most beginners make is taking too much time with application and the mix. I've been using the spar method 3 years now. I live in Florida and work outside so the weather(temp., wind, humidity) all affect the mix and application. If it is windy(which I try to avoid) I have to thin the mix slightly more or else it will start to dry and streak. Normally though I use around a 70/30 to 60/40 mix of spar/mineral spirits. As I've said, application is key. I fold a scott towel in half, Cut a strip about 2 1/2" to 3" depending on the size of the lens to be coated. Fold that in half and dip the top folded half into the mixture. It takes practice knowing how much for each sized light because if you go too heavy you have runs and too light it dries too quick and streaks(which is what most people do). I apply the coating in 10-15 seconds. This is KEY!!! I actually use a fair amount, quickly go around the outside edges and then fill the middle parts liberally with coating. Then very quickly and carefully swipe horizontally from side to side....starting from top and working down(again the towel size helps speed the process). If the mix is correct you will see some initial streaks but, they will flow(thank you gravity) and blend away within a few minutes. If they don't vanish in a few minutes, wipe it all off....add a slight bit of mineral spirits and try again. You have to get a feel for your weather, the extremely quick application and your mixing. It takes a bit of practice......keep trying, you'll find the sweet spot.

[Henrico]

Rich, Many thanks to share your valuable experience with others. Your sharing should save my time. As I reply to Part Timer, I will post some photos soon. Thanks again

Ok... from my experience this may help.
1. I dont use scott blue shop towels. I use the clean up towels. They are also blue but are perforated at half sheets
2. Here in AZ, I find a 50/50 mix to be the best but when I do have issues I immediately wipe it off with OMS
3. I have had cars with very large headlights that seem to eat up the coating and make it difficult to get a great coat. In this case (when poss) I let that firat coat dry for about 30-40minutes and the coat vertically. This seems to help with small waviness.
4. I make small batches of SPAR/OMS. I have a small bottle approx 4oz that I fill and it has a dispensor cap with a small hole. Instead of dipping my towel, I dispense the oms onto the towels edge to control how much is on there.
Lastly.... I have had the issue of someone taping a lens and pulling the coating off. I was able to repair this by starting with 800wet followed by 1500 & 3000. I no longer polish after that. Clean with the oms and the recoat.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using AG Online

[kaimanson]

Hi guys!! i'm here to report how my business is doing...everything was working so far until I started to see this in one of my own cars, then my other car start to have the same problem, I had to re-sand both and apply it the spar again. It didn't last not more than 6 months. am I doing something wrong?

Process:
1. Sand paper: 800-1500-2000
2. Clean the headlight with oms (let it dry for a few mins)
2. 70/30 spar/oms
3. Scott towel in half

I have done quite a few with good results at the beginning...then this happen..
Thanks for the feedback, I had to put my on the side business on hold until i'm able to figure out what is happening...

[mr.fusion]

IMO, that's about what to expect with minwax on a vehicle. Expect it to fail in 6-12 months. Anyone doing retail HLR should be using something else. Even for car dealers, I think it's a bad idea. I consider it a short term DIY fix, not a professional process. The real problem I have is not just that it only lasts a few months, but that it actually ends up looking worse than before it was "repaired". I got suckered into using it, but moved on after seeing similar results as this. Good news is that it shouldn't be hard to give it another go or try something else, because it can be removed with a pressure washer.

[light-bright]

IMO, that's about what to expect with minwax on a vehicle. Expect it to fail in 6-12 months. Anyone doing retail HLR should be using something else. Even for car dealers, I think it's a bad idea. I consider it a short term DIY fix, not a professional process. The real problem I have is not just that it only lasts a few months, but that it actually ends up looking worse than before it was "repaired". I got suckered into using it, but moved on after seeing similar results as this. Good news is that it shouldn't be hard to give it another go or try something else, because it can be removed with a pressure washer.

With all due respect. I absolutely do not see this issue. I offer a 1 year warranty and have been doing my service for nearly 2 1/2 years with only one car that I have done in warranty. To be fair, even that car was done due to the dealerahip having body work done after my service that required the headlight to be taped before a full cure time was allowed. I merely did this as a good faith service.

My own personal car was done in the first week of Sept in 2011 and it looks just fine. I do not ask anyone to baby their car and I do not baby mine either. This is probably the worst forum I could admit this on, but... I actually wash my car weekly, or as close to that as possible, in a gas station automated car wash. This is NOT a touchless wash either. With that going on for over 2 years my headlights look clean and clear.

It can be easily removed if wanted. Now I have repaired failed repairs from other people using various methods. I can say that the worst looking failures with the most difficult repair was when people did the clear paint. It lifts and does not adhere to plastic. In some areas it will hold but is easier to remobe using plastic razors or a credit card than it is to sand off.



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[jrs1418]

I agree with mr.fusion. Spar is a decent inexpensive DIY fix but it most definitely doesn't last. Opti-coat and Optilens are much better options. I'm sold on O-lens 1000000000%