Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

[david11g35]

[/QUOTE]
Yes. That is what we are talking about. I have always done 50/50. Until I have an issue or feel the need to change things, I will stick with it. [/QUOTE] thanks. also what compound do you use? do some people apply the 50/50 right after sanding with the 3000 and skip the compound?

[RENU]

I too was just thinking about the 50/50 & 60/40 mix, I was thinking the OMS does evaporate as the mix dries on the headlight and is therefore there for the application process...has anyone ever tried a 70/30 or 80/20? I'm going to try 70/30 - 75/25 - 80/20 on a few lights I got at the scrapyard as a test, when I get a chance over the next few weeks. I'll post when I get a chance.

[Part-timer]

I too was just thinking about the 50/50 & 60/40 mix, I was thinking the OMS does evaporate as the mix dries on the headlight and is therefore there for the application process...has anyone ever tried a 70/30 or 80/20? I'm going to try 70/30 - 75/25 - 80/20 on a few lights I got at the scrapyard as a test, when I get a chance over the next few weeks. I'll post when I get a chance.

I try to go 60/40.....but if its windy out, the 60/40 dries too quickly and doesn't have a chance to self-level, so I have to add mineral spirits to thin the mixture out a bit to work. I've tried 70/30 and it didn't work for me....even the 60/40 is kind of pushing it.

Also....many on here DON"T recommend compound because they say the spar is like paint and needs a rough surface to "BITE INTO". I've tried many ways and just using 3000 grit 3" disc ends my process before wiping down with mineral spirits and applying spar 60/40 mix.

[RENU]

Thanks Part-timer...

I do have to agree with; no compound, wiping down with mineral spirits, and then applying the Spar/OMS mixture on a clean & dry headlight...remember after wiping the lens clean with OMS...give the OMS a chance to evaporate properly...say 5 minutes, then apply the 50/50 or 60/40 mix.

[bigjoe87865]

new here and saw this thread in a google search, read the first couple pages and the last couple pages but really didnt want to read the whole thread, but I have a quick question

Im interested in using this for my restored headlights, oem bmw e39 facelift headlights.

before reading this thread,
I used 3m headlight restoration and did the whole thing all the way to buffing with the foam pad and rubbing compound and I really wanted to figure out a way to protect the lens in the meantime so I put on 2 coats of tech 2.0 liquid wax on it.

If I want to follow the spar method, can I just remove the wax with IPA and then apply the spar directly to the fully polished lens? (has very faint scratches on it, thats all)
OR should I hit the lens with the trizact disc and scuff it a bit and then apply spar?


and after spar, do I need to do anything further buffing?

[light-bright]

new here and saw this thread in a google search, read the first couple pages and the last couple pages but really didnt want to read the whole thread, but I have a quick question

Im interested in using this for my restored headlights, oem bmw e39 facelift headlights.

before reading this thread,
I used 3m headlight restoration and did the whole thing all the way to buffing with the foam pad and rubbing compound and I really wanted to figure out a way to protect the lens in the meantime so I put on 2 coats of tech 2.0 liquid wax on it.

If I want to follow the spar method, can I just remove the wax with IPA and then apply the spar directly to the fully polished lens? (has very faint scratches on it, thats all)
OR should I hit the lens with the trizact disc and scuff it a bit and then apply spar?


and after spar, do I need to do anything further buffing?

Let me first say, you should do what I did and take a few moments each night to read a little more, and a little more, until you do read the whole thread. There is a lot of great info on the pages in between.

Here is what I have gathered in regards to your question. If you use an IPA to remove the wax entirely. Wet sand with the trizact, and clean with OMS, there is no reason you can't use the spar. It's exactly what I had done with my own car. No issues at all. Although, I also compounded before the spar. I will be testing my results without compound.

[bigjoe87865]

Let me first say, you should do what I did and take a few moments each night to read a little more, and a little more, until you do read the whole thread. There is a lot of great info on the pages in between.

Here is what I have gathered in regards to your question. If you use an IPA to remove the wax entirely. Wet sand with the trizact, and clean with OMS, there is no reason you can't use the spar. It's exactly what I had done with my own car. No issues at all. Although, I also compounded before the spar. I will be testing my results without compound.

yeah, I figured as much, going to read the rest of this thread now.

Im set on IPA to remove wax, trizact to scuff it it up for bite, OMS to clean before 50/50 spar.

Then just apply spar slowly in one swipe or without any swipes over lapping right?

What should be done to maintain the spar coating?... allowed to apply any wax on top of it during car wash intervals?

[GP49]

I *DO* let swipes of the 50/50 spar overlap, but maintain a WET edge as I do so.

Maintenance for me has been water and detergent wash only. Some car polishes and waxes contain solvents that can soften the polyurethane.

[4AudiQ]

I tried this method on my wife's 2003 Jetta.

She thought I had purchased new headlights.
I used a 2" foam brush to put it on.
They look fabulous.

[Part-timer]

yeah, I figured as much, going to read the rest of this thread now.

Im set on IPA to remove wax, trizact to scuff it it up for bite, OMS to clean before 50/50 spar.

Then just apply spar slowly in one swipe or without any swipes over lapping right?

What should be done to maintain the spar coating?... allowed to apply any wax on top of it during car wash intervals?

As GP49 says..........What I've found out with my own lights is that....1. Some waxes do tend to remove and/or degrade the spar....2. Some waxes seem to actually start the yellowing process that you are trying to fix, just by applying them. I've heard a few say that they use Mequiars Plastix polish on occasion...but again, I'm with GP49....no waxes.