DFB's Garage

[Big Dave]

Picked up a quick release chuck for my Milwaukee inflator. These just screw onto the OEM threaded chuck and prevent losing too much air when removing from the valve stem.

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B09TKMP...t_details&th=1

Much better now.......................

I remember using similar connections on the air hose at the servo, you always had to hold them on because they were so worn out, it was rare that they would hold on all by themselves. I'm sure yours will last many years, because you won't abuse yours.

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[DanaDetailingPros]

Have the exact one on mine and love it!

[DFB]

I remember using similar connections on the air hose at the servo, you always had to hold them on because they were so worn out, it was rare that they would hold on all by themselves. I'm sure yours will last many years, because you won't abuse yours.

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You can only imagine the idiots attempting use those things, so not surprised they would flog out.

[DFB]

Autumn, my favorite season. Sunny days, not too hot, not too cold..............perfect for pottering about. And so, having the last two days off has been a fantastic recharge.

Yesterday, I serviced a work colleague's lawn mower. She pays to cover the parts and I throw in the labor for free. Nothing overly complicated, it's only a few years old, but I changed out the oil for fresh Penrite 10W-30, a new air filter and spark plug. I then gave the unit a clean with Shine Supply Wise Guy, applied Hydr02 to the deck and a little P&S Shape Up dressing for the plastics. It was then returned, ready for work again.

Interesting to note the design of the airbox on these newer Brigg's engines lets in a lot of dust and debris. Where the oil-soaked foam filters on the old side-valve engines didn't allow any foreign material to enter the filter case, the new OHV engines have two entry points for grass and dust to enter the housing. This makes it vital to check, clean or replace the paper cartridge and foam pre-filters often.

After that and running around town for this and that, I zoned out for a few hours and settled into my happy place by washing the Mustang. I typically use soap for the wheels, but I decided to use Brake Buster from my foam cannon to get a deeper clean than usual.

Soap of choice was Koch Chemie GSF, followed by a blow down with the EGO and OG Drying Aid. With the cooler weather, I decided to tackle the inside of the rear windshield by folding myself into the back seat, using the Stoner Reach & Clean Tool to get right down to the base of the screen. The wheels got a wipe down with NV Boost v1 and the tyres re-coated with OG Tire Dressing.





Today, I made sure I had nowhere to go other than out into the garage. Again, it was on with the headphones to help me zone out, the delightful Table Manners podcast playing in my ear. After running them through the washing machine yesterday, the first job today was to refit the Ranger's waterproof seat covers. Actually, while they were out of the car, I cleaned under the seats and the headboard with Griot's Interior Cleaner, the rest of the interior with InnerQD.

For the exterior, again I used foamed Brake Buster for the wheels, then P&S Radiance for the wash. Drying Aid an old favorite, Meguiar's Last Touch, then the tires got another coat of OG TD and the wheels wiped over with Boost v1.



While it wasn't all that bad, it was then the Jaguar's turn. Foamed Brake Buster again for the wheels and tyres, soap of choice being Shine Supply Shift, and OG Drying getting another run. The wheels this time wiped with ECH20, tyres dressed with Opti-coat Tire Gel.



Finishing up the bliss, I mixed up a fresh batch of ECH20 at 15:1 and topped off various spray bottles, something I find very therapeutic for some reason.

Back to work tomorrow........................

[Klasse Act]

Deyon, what do you think of Radiance

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[DFB]

Deyon, what do you think of Radiance

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I like it waaaay more than I expected! I'm not the biggest fan of soaps with a wax or sealant in them, but the first time I used Radiance I was very impressed with the gloss and slickness it left behind. So far, I've only used it on the Ranger, which is coated with Gyeon Pure EVO, the two play well together.

Yes, the foam is on the runny side and the scent a bit meh, but overall, I really like it.

[Klasse Act]

I like it waaaay more than I expected! I'm not the biggest fan of soaps with a wax or sealant in them, but the first time I used Radiance I was very impressed with the gloss and slickness it left behind. So far, I've only used it on the Ranger, which is coated with Gyeon Pure EVO, the two play well together.

Yes, the foam is on the runny side and the scent a bit meh, but overall, I really like it.

I haven't used it in the bucket yet, in my IK Foam Pro 12 I used 4 oz/1 gallon and thought it was ok, so maybe it's better in the bucket

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[DFB]

I haven't used it in the bucket yet, in my IK Foam Pro 12 I used 4 oz/1 gallon and thought it was ok, so maybe it's better in the bucket

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I'm a bit different in that I don't two-bucket wash. I use the foam cannon to apply soap to the car directly, then use one single "rinse" bucket. Actually, I dump the remains of the foam cannon into the bucket, along with a little soap directly onto the wash media.





I think I know what you mean by "it was ok", Radiance is not a benchmark soap. It's a fine maintenance soap and is decently slick, but I have doubts about its ultimate cleaning ability. The scent is straight out of 1985, and the runny foam consistency is common to this sort of soap and P&S in general. Combined, it makes for an "ok" soap, but not a standout.

From my perspective, I did notice increased slickness and gloss to the paint after using Radiance, which helps redeem itself.

[DFB]

Two of my favorite things today, lawn mowers and washing cars! Let's start with the mowers.

About a month ago, I lost drive on the Mulchmaster. Thankfully, it failed at home and after finishing my mowing run for the day. What I thought would be a simple belt change turned out to be more involved. In fact, the belt itself still had a few threads intact, but one of the tensioner pullies had slipped off the bearing.............







From what I have since learned, once the bearings fail on these, they heat up the plastic pully and melt them free.

After a few minutes searching the PDF parts manual, which I have saved for all of my machines now, I found that Victa only sells the complete tensioner assembly and not the induvial pullies. In any case, these are not all that expensive, but they are special order and why it's taken me a month to get around to fixing this issue.

Victa: CH86896AW

https://bwmachinery.com.au/wp-conten...Parts-List.pdf

Victa Genuine Tensioner Mount Pack CH86896AW [BRICH86896AW] - $42.91 :



Replacement of the belt and tensioner is a bit of a fiddle, but not hard. First, remove the blade carrier from the driveshaft to give access later on. Then, release the speed control cable by loosening the double nuts that hold it to the assembly, then unhook the cable from the pivoting tensioner arm. Next, remove the nyloc nut from the second pully, this bold also holds the assembly in place and passes through the chassis, you will need two 13mm ring spanners.



New unit ready for install following the above in reverse.



The Mulchmaster was the last machine I entrusted to the "care" a local repair shop. I had dropped it in for a belt replacement, a month and $220 later, the machine was handed back on a Saturday morning. On the first job, the thing was driving way too slowly, even in top gear. Thinking back, I am certain they didn't even do a test run before signing off on the job, because if they had, they would have known something wasn't right. By this time, it was 1pm on a Saturday and the shop closed. Annoyed, I removed the belt shroud to discover they had put the belt on incorrectly. The short period of running had also cut the belt.





I then spent a month arguing with the arrogant shop owner, who was insistent I bring the machine back, which wasn't going to happen. My argument being they charged me for a repair that I ended up having to do myself to get it running and earning money again, and that the belt was compromised. In the end, we agreed for them to simply cover the cost of a new belt and call it a day. After waiting for weeks to be issued a refund, I sent an email to Victa head office that a "certified dealer" was doing the brand a disservice. I got no response from either Victa or the dealer, but the money was in my account 24 hours later.

I say all of the above because I already had a belt in stock, and that I'm shocked that the compromised belt lasted 14 months. Even so, I ordered another belt to keep in stock.

Victa - CH85666A

https://www.outdoorking.com.au/index...oducts_id=8534



To fit the belt takes a bit of finagling. First, feed the belt from the top of the deck, pulling through to hook over the blade boss and then onto the engine pully. You then snake the belt around the pivot arm pully and up to the gear box pully. Get the belt started on the gearbox pully, then rotate till it walks into place.





Next, you need to reset the speed control. First, move the lever to the fastest position, pull back on the cable to tension the pivot arm, then adjust and tighten the double nuts to lock everything down. A quick test run, then another readjustment of the cable, the belt cover can be reinstalled.

I ended up giving the machine a test run on the neighbors lawn, and I'm pleased to report the Mulchmaster is now fixed and running well.

[DFB]

Last week, not having time to attend to the dirty, bug ridden Wildtrak, I decided to see what Bilt Hamber Touchless would do in a simply foam-rinse-blow dry type of treatment. Touchless got the car 90 percent clean, stripping off the grime in an effortless way. That meant today's wash would be far easier.

As always, the wheels and tyres were first. I used foamed Brake Buster for the wheels, the tyres scrubbed with P&S Undressed, followed by another application of Hydr02 on the wheels.

I then moved onto the engine bay, rinsing it down before applying APC and scrubbing with the Detail Factory Fender Brush and an EZ-Detail brush. Rinsed again, I applied Hyper Dressing and closed the hood.



Even though the car was still pretty clean after last weeks Touchless, I still used a pre-treat foaming, in this case Gyeon Foam. It was then onto a new soap......................



After having a few people suggest I try it, Hyper Wash is a highly concentrated soap aimed at pro detailers. I had previously dismissed Hyper Wash because of the high recommended retail price and ultra-thick consistency. Combined with the new wide mouth MTM foam cannon bottle and the thinner than expected consistency, dispensing the soap was easier than I had anticipated.

Hyper Wash produces thick, shaving cream-like foam that, unlike the Gyeon Foam used earlier, does thin down a little as it dwells. The scent is quite muted but pleasant, again I was expecting it to smell like some of Meguiar's older legacy products. Slickness is good but not at Reset or GSF levels, and it's relatively free rinsing. Cleaning power is impressive though, which you would expect from a product rated at pH 9.0.







I have to say, Hyper Wash is way better than I had been expected and I'm grateful for those who suggested trying it. This is why forums are the best, respectful sharing of knowledge and information rather than the trash to be found on other social media platforms.

After the wash, I used NV Boost v2 for the drying aid and P&S Epic for the door jambs. I cleaned the interior with P&S Xpress, followed by P&S True Vue for the glass. The leather was looking quite grotty, so I cleaned with KCx Pol Star and applied Geist Leather Conditioner. The Floor mats were scrubbed with Mckee's FMCLR and dressed with P&S Swift.



I then wiped the wheels over with Boost v2 and dressed the tyres with Shine Supply Decked Out.