DFB's Garage

[DFB]

I'm confident you'll love ECO wash in better conditions, plus I'd love you to try Labocosmetica Idrosave...ANOTHER ONE

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I might have news on that coming soon........................

[Klasse Act]

I might have news on that coming soon........................

I knew it

...and knowing you you've got both 3 part kits too

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[Coatingsarecrack]

I'm confident you'll love ECO wash in better conditions, plus I'd love you to try Labocosmetica Idrosave...ANOTHER ONE

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[Klasse Act]

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Great gif

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[DFB]

A little re-org of two cabinets today.

Starting with my tool cabinet, I wanted to free up space by getting some of the Milwaukee collection hung on the cabinet walls. After a trip to the dreaded green shed for a selection of brackets, I attached these to the cabinet walls to create a more organized layout.





About a month ago, I ordered this Rupes Systainer case for my new polisher.

This purchase was a bit too good to be true actually. When searching for the case, I found one vendor selling it $30 - 40 cheaper than most of the others, so naturally, I ordered it from them. A month later it arrived, or to be precise, I had to pick it up from the post office (that in itself another annoyance). Despite being an Australian retailer, they are clearly drop-shipping products rather than warehousing them here. So, while I saved money, it took 35 days to arrive, which may or may not be an annoyance for you.

These Systainer cases are modular and stackable in a similar concept to Milwaukee Pack Out, just without the huge accessory catalog. I already had one of these which came with my iBrid Nano, which is cleverly designed with a two-layer foam insert to hold the machine, batteries, backing plates, tools and accessories.







I actually thought that Rupes was sending out the new HLR kits with a Systainer, clearly not. The one I bought for the HLR-15 is an empty shell, so I cut up a section of foam trap mat to provide a bed for the polisher and batteries.

https://www.discounttrader.com.au/pr...SABEgIqd_D_BwE





Next, the bulk chemical storage cabinet. These cabinets require the right-hand door to be open in order to open the left side. The way I originally set this cabinet up had the stuff I used most on the left side, so opening two doors to gain access to one each time was getting old. So, I decided to swap sides.





The blue recycling bin above was completely filled with carboard boxes stored in both cabinets. Please explain to me the logic behind keeping the box the tool came in, you know, just in case? I'm pretty sure I inherited that from my Grandfather. :doh Throwing away all those boxes freed up soooo much space! Don't keep your boxes people.



After too much time messing about, I then got the tools out and washed the Ranger.



Wheels, tyres and wheel arches were cleaned with Brake Buster from my foam cannon. The rest of the car cleaned with the excellent Adam's Mega Foam (the best of their three maintenance soaps), drying aid was P&S Clean Maker (90 % Bead Maker mixed with 10% Dream Maker). The tray and door jambs wiped with ECH20, tyres with OG Tire Dressing, interior wiped down with Auto Finesse Spritz.

[Big Dave]

I did the box disposal thing a couple of months back, Ryobi boxes, the box my Narva lightbar came in, a couple of security sensor light boxes, and a few I can't remember. Right now I have a Hi-Tec boot box, a jack stands box and some die-cast car storage container boxes to flatten out. So it's not just you.

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[Azure]

Out of interest, what is everyone's opinion on "running in" or "breaking in" a new car/engine?

I was always told not to baby them too much, the engine would otherwise be a slug for the rest of its days. I'm not sure how true that is though.

In the past, I've taken the firm, but fair approach. As in, don't baby it, give it some stick here and there with the odd trip to 5000 rpm, vary the revs, put some mild load on the engine running up some hills. Naturally, all without smashing the rev limiter. In fact, I accidentally had the DSC chime in leaving the dealership with my brand new XR8....................felt guilty about that for weeks.

A mechanic we had went to for over 30 years told us to let them get through the first oil change (3k US miles back then) before flooring it (taking to the tach redline). He would also say don't go for a trip where you are going to maintain a set speed for a long time as well. He told us many of the manufacturers had break-in type oil in them coming from the factory. After that first oil change, you can go all-out. I'm not sure if that still applies to the cars of today since a lot of them put synthetic oil in them from the factory.

[DFB]

A mechanic we had went to for over 30 years told us to let them get through the first oil change (3k US miles back then) before flooring it (taking to the tach redline). He would also say don't go for a trip where you are going to maintain a set speed for a long time as well. He told us many of the manufacturers had break-in type oil in them coming from the factory. After that first oil change, you can go all-out. I'm not sure if that still applies to the cars of today since a lot of them put synthetic oil in them from the factory.

I've had service advisors try and persuade me from changing oil at the free 3000km (1800 mile) inspection because of the "running-in oil" Ford uses, then when I insist on an oil change, they then tell me I have to pay for it.................well, der! I'm the customer, take my money and do what I ask!

Typical procedure for me is to be firm but fair up to about 1500 km, change the oil at the first inspection, then its game on. I've done this on countless new cars and never had an oil burner or threw a rod.