DFB's Garage

[DFB]

Those tire are DONE.

Definitely ARE.

I'm assuming you are referencing the old Dunlop's from the Ranger?

Yep, was surpised to see how bad they were. If the Ranger was capable of it, I would have given them a roasting send off.

[DFB]

Look's good Deyon but i'm a fan of the steel wheels, more of a work vibe with them but they did need a good sand back and re spray.

BUT if you like the new set up that's all that matters.

I never really disliked the steel wheels, as you say, they sort of looked theme correct. Considering how they needed repainting, and new tyres it seemed, I just decided to go for something completely different.

[DFB]

The Jaaaaaag's turn today!

The tyres were scrubbed with P&S Undressed, Wheels and paint cleaned with the delightful Shine Supply Shift.

Post wash drying via the new EGO stubby attachment...............





While the aftermarket has mostly catered to this need with various 3D printed options, this is EGO acknowledging that a market exists for their blowers being used for car detailing. Compared to the 3D printed option which I have been using, the EGO unit has an integrated rubber tip and quick release lever to easily remove it from the blower. The 3D printed- versions were basically locked onto the blower and needed a special touch to remove. Even though its not needed, I fitted the green silicone blower band to mine, it just looks better that way!

Drying Aid was via Obsessed Garage, which works really well with Gyeon Pure EVO. Invisible Glass took care of the interior and exterior glass, the rest of the interior treated to a new product...................



Two things I immediately liked about this all-in-one interior detailer, the coconut scent and the natural/OEM finish it leaves behind. Considering the mild consistency of the product and its UV inhibitors, I expected this to be smeary on gloss trims and screens, but that didn't play out. So not only does it finish down so well, it can be used across multiple surfaces without issue. Win-Win.

Finally, the tyres were dressed using the brilliant Adam's Graphene. What stands out today was using the new Maxshine Curved Grip XL brush. There are two versions of this brush, both with interchangeable heads, one being the soft synthetic, and this mixed bristle version. Having used and been impressed with the synthetic version, it's best used on 40 and higher profile tyres. This mixed bristle version is better can accommodate lower profile sidewalls like the Jaguar's......................



Synthetic version.................



Mixed version...................







I can safely say this is one of THE BEST ways to apply tyre dressing. In fact, that statement applies to both of these brushes. In both cases, because of the density of bristles, the dressing is easily distributed across the sidewall and into all the groves, but those bristles also mean a follow up knock-down wipe is simply not required.

For the most part, I have been using brushes rather than foam applicators for tyre dressings for a while now, it negates the need to wear gloves and is overall less messy. The only drawback with the two brushes above is the $27 price compared to a $3.00 foam applicator. However, as many would know, foam starts to get pretty grotty in short order, these brushes will be far more durable and can actually be washed out if desired.

And finally, some more seat time in the XR8........................

[DFB]

Every time I have leave, there is a list of things I HAVE to do and things I WANT to do. Well, today I ticked off everything on that list, the last two being in the HAVE to do camp, so even more satisfying. So, I'm now at the tinkering stage.

First of cab off the rank, a quick oil change and spark plug change on the Atom edger. I love this little Honda engine, its runs so nicely, uses very little fuel and burns no oil. The 12-month-old oil came out golden, the plug looked beautiful. I also find there is a higher level of precision with the way parts fit together compared to the Briggs and Krohler stuff.



I also bit the bullet and decided to change the XR6's battery. The date scribe on the old battery was from 2013, it tested ok for voltage but was down on CCA. It was boarder line, so I just replaced it, ten years on a battery is good enough for me.



The same guy who replaced the XR8's battery a few months ago worked on the XR6 today, he remembered me, or more to the point, remembered the spotless car..........."I don't want to touch it". That's the best compliment someone can give me, and it also generally means they know it's not just another Corolla or Thailux, that they will take extra care. Again, new battery was $200 cash, drive in, drive out.

And am I concerned about having a GM battery in my Ford? No, because it means I have finally gotten rid of that pink eyesore the old battery presented. Why they chose that colour is beyond me...................



Great battery though, it went near 11 years, and probably would have went further if I didn't jump early.

Last little task, cleaning up the old brake dust shields I removed back in October from the XR6. Sanded, cleaned and ready for a coat of paint. This is before painting, the flat black is not to my liking, so the second coat I will go to satin black.



Will they go back on the car? Who knows, I'll wrap them up and store them away, ready to refit in another 15 years.

[Setec Astronomy]

Hold on just a minute there---that Delco battery--sealed? And it looks like it has the hydrometer eye?? I don't know what goes on there in Australia, but here in the US, GM spun off the Delco division about 20 years ago into a separate company--Delphi, which then went bankrupt. After going bankrupt, they reorganized and stopped making (most of?) their own products, the "Freedom" battery was one of them, the Delco batteries are now made for them by someone else. I stopped buying Delco batteries because they became just like any other generic non-sealed battery, after 20+ years of buying them. Obviously things are different down under. My current favorite battery is the Exide Marathon Max, which is a sealed flat-plate AGM battery.

[Bill D]

Here I’m lucky if a battery lasts three years. Seems like every time I turn around I have to replace one and yes, currently I have a Delco battery in the Caddy. Just got it this past summer.

[DFB]

Spent more than hour messing around with this Diva today. Actually, I've spent more than a few hours messing about with this Diva over the last week.....................



When I bought this mower (second hand), it was a strong runner and would rev up quite nicely under load like the VSX/VEX versions of this engine do. Except, for some reason not long after, it had fallen back to about 2800 rpm. Not enough to cause it struggle through taller grass, but with no load, these should be running at about 3300 rpm at full throttle and then spur up to about 4000 rpm when loaded. This week, I finally looked into it further.

First step, I started trying different weight and length carburetor springs. Actually, there are two springs within these G4 carbs, a short and long version, the former is what controls the governed engine speed. Over time, these can lose tension, so sometimes a replacement can sure over or under revving.

Victa Carburetor Spring Long Type | Push Mower Repair

This can be accessed two ways, either remove the side cover, or remove via the spring access cap (figure 3 below), which is the easier way to do it as you generally don't have to remove the impulse line. After trying a few different springs with no improvement, I even tried putting a spacer washer between the cap and spring, which lifted the revs but made it erratic and surgy.





I also checked and tried the different settings of the poppet valve (figure 2 above). This was Victa's way of adjusting the carb for different applications, this engine was used on mowers, edgers, slashers, yard vacuums, even as an outboard boat motor. Again, no effect.

I then removed the blade carrier to access the exhaust outlet, thinking it could have been choked up. But it was mostly clear.

I then ordered a used replacement carb, throttle and intake snorkel tube assembly. I have no use for the carb.......... actually, I'm going to teach myself how to rebuild these things with it. What I needed was the replacement hose and larger air filter inlet adaptor unique to the VSX/VEX engine as the original was cracked. The idea being it was leaking and preventing it from running properly.



Typically, to replace the throttle cable and intake snorkel, you need to disassemble the carb to unhook the cable from the carburetor throttle cam, this allows you to remove the tubing from the cable that runs through it. But I didn't want to pull the carb to bits, so I did it the "hard" way by taking the throttle and air cleaner assembly off, unhooked the cable from the lever (which required the removal of the orange plastic t-handle), unhooked the tube from the carb and fed the cable out. I then put replacement back on in reverse order.

I started it up and now we were dealing with about 3100 rpm. I then got cocky and decided to try a different spring to bring it up to the magic 3300 rpm number. In the process, I accidentally removed the white carb cap, no big deal, I cleaned it and easily snapped it back into place. I stared it up and whaaaaaaam! The thing shot to over 4200 rpm..........to much!! I then cycled through the springs and still, it was running too hard.

From here, I also trialed dialing the poppit valve to the slower A position, but it still wanted to take off. Earlier in the piece, I had also checked and blew out the impulse line to no effect, which is another governing element to the carb. So now I'm contending with a leak somewhere, be that the crankcase/starter o-ring or the intake manifold/carb o-ring. Or maybe a stuck decompressor.

I suspect that all along, the white cap was not seated properly and was causing it to under rev. Now I have an over revving engine that just wont settle down. I can run it part throttle no worries and have it sitting nicely at about 3000 to 3200 rpm, but beyond that, I'm frightened it'll throw a rod. I was actually getting this mower fixed up to take to work so we can start scalping a particular section of lawn. But I can't hand this machine over to that particular employee, he'll blow the thing up in no time.

While I love these engines, I have always said they can be Diva's. And so this one has proved. These are incredibly strong and long-lasting engines, the block and cylinder made from cast-iron, but they need all the ducks lined up to run correctly. They also drink lots of fuel and make a lot of noise. But nothing will stop them when the going gets tough.





Here's one that is actually running properly..........................



On the plus side, I did fix the Rover Combat this afternoon, adjusting the throttle cable to properly engage the choke for cold starts. You win some, you lose some................

[DFB]

Car wise, it was take two at getting the XR6 back into to storage for a few weeks.

The wheels were given a quick wash with soapy water (3D Pink), then a rinse-less wash using Absolute and "Clean Maker" for the drying aid.

This is why I love Sensation, in the sun it glows!





After a trip to the dreaded green shed for a can of satin black paint, I applied the second coat on the old dust shields. The flat paint actually looked quite nice after drying.





After the second coat has cured, I'll wrap and store them in bubble wrap.

[DFB]

The XR8's turn today.......................

I'm absolutely in love with these brushes.................











I wish I had discovered this brush when I was dealing with the Mustang's OE fit wheels, this would have made short work of the multitude of spokes on those wheels. Although, this style of brush didn't exist back then. Compared to a boars hair brush that is traditionally used on wheels, this style of synthetic bristle brush is ultra soft and gentle. The only thing this brush doesn't do compared to the TRC Ultra Wheel Mitt that I have been using for a while now is reach behind the back of the spokes.

Even covered in a layer of foam, in this case the excellent Opti-Coat M-Wash, you can still see the bonnet bulge rising above the rest of the bodywork.



Today I tried something different with the drying by using P&S Absolute rinse-less wash mixed at 64:1. I've been having streaking issues with this car, the hood in particular. Years of using a variety of different spray sealants and quick detailers has finally caught up with me.

Absolute is one of the slickest of it's type, but doesn't contain a wax or Si02 element in its formulation. While it didn't feel as slick afterwards compared to say Bread Maker or Paint Gloss, it DIDN'T streak or ghost. I'm going to mess around with this a bit using different rinse-less products to see if I can find a sweet spot regarding slickness and gloss, without the streaking.

With today the first 40-degree day of the summer so far, it was getting a too toasty for me, so after dealing with the XR8 and putting it back to bed for a while, I got the Mustang out for a run to the toy store. I had intentions of buying the Milwaukee impact gun I had been eyeing for over a year now with some Christmas gift cards, but annoyingly, they were out of stock. In fact, they only had two of the multitude of M18 impact skins Milwaukee offer on the shelf. How is that a thing these days?

Anyway, walking out empty handed and an empty wallet, I ordered the one I wanted and paid in advance, I decided to take an extended burn in the Mustang.



This such a riot of a car to drive, all snorty and gruff when you want to make some noise, but it's also a great high-speed tourer. While I love revving that engine out and drooling over the luscious induction note, it's also lovely to settle back, select 6th gear and relax while looking out over that long, pumped hood.

[Big Dave]

I'm guessing the stock issues were related to strike action on the docks, but in good news :

"Australian shipping stakeholders have cause to celebrate as DP World and the Maritime Union of Australia (MUA) have reached an agreement that will end protected industrial action at Australian ports.

Dock workers throughout Australia have been striking since October in a pay dispute against port operator DP World, which it is estimated has cost the Australian economy A$86m ($56m) a week. "





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