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  1. #1
    Super Member Mike Hoekstra's Avatar
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    The difference between white and “white”

    Yesterdays first detail was a 15 year old pickup. Wash, decon, clay, and finish out with Blackfire One Step. See the line where I stopped buffing behind the cowl or the dofference between the finished box and unstarted cab?



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Owner/Operator Auto Massage LLC - www.automassagellc.com
    Custom painter and commissioned artist - www.spikedairstudio.com

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  3. #2
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    Re: The difference between white and “white”

    Nice work there. My wife has a white VW beetle. I see the same very satisfying result when I buff it.

    Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

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  5. #3
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    Re: The difference between white and “white”

    Nice job.

    I had the same experience with my 89 Mustang. It's white, single stage repaint.
    It looked white, but once I did half the trunk lid with compound and microfiber, it was much whiter.
    Completed the full car and made a noticeable difference and was more bright white.

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  7. #4
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: The difference between white and “white”

    Looks GREAT Mike!

    The Toyota white paint is fun to work on.



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  9. #5
    Newbie Member seanktm's Avatar
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    Re: The difference between white and “white”

    Nice! I am waiting for better weather, so I can tackle my new-to-me 2006 Tundra White next week. The paint has been neglected and it was washed with Dawn and Scotch pad by someone that doesn't know how to properly wash a vehicle. Single stage soft white is what I hear. Measured the paint and it's about 3-4 mil (including primer).

    Do you mind sharing what pad you ended up using with Blackfire One Step? I have LC Force in White Light Polishing, Orange Med Cutting, and Uro-Fiber to work with. Was going to start testing from LC White and upward, but it'd be helpful to know the process you used successfully as a reference point.

    As for polish, I have 3D Speed and Rupes Uno Protect AIO for this one. I also have 3D One and BOSS creams if I feel like doing a one-step correction instead of AIO. I think Blackfire is probably closest to Rupes Uno Protect in terms of cut and protection?

    As for polisher, I was gonna work with G9 & G8 and sideline the newly ordered G15 on this one. Which polisher did you use? Thanks in advance.

  10. #6
    Super Member Craig Encinitas's Avatar
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    The difference between white and “white”

    ‘03 Tundra

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  12. #7
    Super Member Eldorado2k's Avatar
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    Re: The difference between white and “white”

    04’ Tacoma


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  14. #8
    Super Member Dan Tran's Avatar
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    The difference between white and “white”



    Granted, there is an angle due to the door propped open, but with that said...

    After I hit the door panel with Meguiars Cutting Disc and Jescar Correcting Compound followed by RUPES new DA yellow foam pad with Sonax Perfect Finish...

    The paint correction actually revealed depth and clarity that was underneath the swirls and nasty layer of road grime.

    Ps:

    This photo was immediately after hitting it with GYEON prep.

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  16. #9
    Super Member Sizzle Chest's Avatar
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    Re: The difference between white and “white”

    Nicely done OP!!!
    Scott Harle
    Autodermatology
    #autodermatology


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  18. #10
    Super Member Mike Hoekstra's Avatar
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    Re: The difference between white and “white”

    Quote Originally Posted by seanktm View Post
    Nice! I am waiting for better weather, so I can tackle my new-to-me 2006 Tundra White next week. The paint has been neglected and it was washed with Dawn and Scotch pad by someone that doesn't know how to properly wash a vehicle. Single stage soft white is what I hear. Measured the paint and it's about 3-4 mil (including primer).

    Do you mind sharing what pad you ended up using with Blackfire One Step? I have LC Force in White Light Polishing, Orange Med Cutting, and Uro-Fiber to work with. Was going to start testing from LC White and upward, but it'd be helpful to know the process you used successfully as a reference point.

    As for polish, I have 3D Speed and Rupes Uno Protect AIO for this one. I also have 3D One and BOSS creams if I feel like doing a one-step correction instead of AIO. I think Blackfire is probably closest to Rupes Uno Protect in terms of cut and protection?

    As for polisher, I was gonna work with G9 & G8 and sideline the newly ordered G15 on this one. Which polisher did you use? Thanks in advance.
    I used a Buff & Shine Reflection Artist Yellow polishing pad. The white Lake Country Force Hybrid is about the same, so that's what I'd go with. If you don't get the defect removal, step up to the LC orange force hybrid. But 90% of what I do can be done with a regular polishing pad. The polisher I used was my FLEX Cordless beast and 3401 Beast for the bigger areas, and my Flex Pixie with the 12mm and a Lake Country 3" force hybrid white pad. 8 passes was enough to get 90%+ defect removal. As for the polish you have on hand, I would personally grab the 3D speed first and do a test spot. After that, do another test spot with the same pad set up and the Uno and see what you get better results with to do a one step. If you are going to two-step it, then go with the 3D One.
    Owner/Operator Auto Massage LLC - www.automassagellc.com
    Custom painter and commissioned artist - www.spikedairstudio.com

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