there are a couple things to keep in mind, obviously the 5 year "shelf life" of the ATF is a CYA for XOM. but the reason they have it: someone at some point probably had a bottle of ATF that was 20+...
look into bullet liner as well (basically the same as line-x, the guy who started bl worked for line-x before it was bought out by dupont)...and yes the premium is worth the money imo.
yea when i did the f-350 i destroyed an orange pad. i did the whole hood with one pad on speed 6 (the pad was pretty hot) and when i went to pull the pad off of the backing plate it tore away...
is this HJ from JKJC? i have used the orange compounding pad and the blue 1 step pad they have a decent amount of cut i used them on an f-350 that was absolutely hammered and an enclosed trailer to...
my thought would be to coat them with a truck bed liner type product like duplicolor bed armor or line-x, i don't know how much it would affect the sound deadening of the fabric though.
no problem, it's a lesson learned for both of you though, he now knows not to cheap out on paint, and the best advice i have for you is if you are ever unsure of what you are working with, don't do...
go to an autobody supply store to get everything to repaint...from the sound of it he cheaped out on the rattle cans and essentially got model paint or craft paint...also unless the paintwork was...
look into sintered metal 3d printing. i forgot the name of the company but they successfully printed a completely assembled and fully functioning 1911, threw a mag in and fired every round without...
what kind of machine do you have access to? fdm or sla? if it is just an fdm then i would make the flat cross pieces that support the grid a bit thicker so they dont break easily (fdm is for the most...
rust converting or stopping products are junk including the original por 15 (they have a lot of good products but the original paint over rust product is absolute junk IMO and experience)...you are...
do not use wheel brightener on the wheels, iron-x, clay, and trying other "safe for all wheels" cleaners would be my approach, (maybe use finish kare soil and coating remover).
for the paint i would use a finishing polish such as m205 or menzerna sf4500 (if there are any swirls), but one thing i would change in your process would be to clay first then use a paint cleaner. ...
the only difference i have seen is ease of application and removal...ultimate requires very little effort to spread and remove. nxt takes a little more elbow grease to remove. i would say...
thanks for proving my point, like i said they make an insane amount of money (i never said they were hurting for money), but an extremely large amount of money is invested in order to make those...
i **** you not...yea they make a truckload of money but the profit margin is very very small...a lot of effort goes into extracting oil from the earth, transporting, processing, transporting again,...