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Regular Member
Re: Fiberglass Camper detail
My apologies, I will take a few pictures this weekend and start as new thread.
thanks!
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Re: Fiberglass Camper detail
Originally Posted by sillybinaries
My apologies, I will take a few pictures this weekend and start as new thread.
thanks!
Cool.
Looking forward to your thread, shoot me a PM after you've made it with the link.
This is an incredibly busy forum and it can be hard to stay up with every post...
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Junior Member
Re: Fiberglass Camper detail
Thanks guys for your input. I do not have the camper right now but when I do I will take a couple pics and upload them to here. I will try them all and see which works best as you guys stated. I also do not feel conform able sanding it down especially since I never wet sanded a vehicle or camper.
Thanks again.
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Super Member
Re: Fiberglass Camper detail
Originally Posted by sillybinaries
This is a very timely post.
I just purchased a new 2011 EverGreen Ever-lite 33QBK with a fiberglass cap and gel-coat exterior. It has been sitting in a field since Jan, and would like to bring it to it's peak shine. My question is I am trying to decide between a light Meguiars polish or Duragloss 501.
My main concern is I read nightmare stories around what I should do and not do from a vinyl graphic perspective. Do I really need to stay off the graphics, or is it okay to go over lightly. And is the main reason for graphic issues do to petroleum in products?
Any advise as always is much appreciated.
Currently I using 303 to protect and it doesn't last very long.....
I have a 2011 Everlight TT that I've had for two years that sits outside 100% of the time. I just wash it up with nice wash soap and this year put a coat of liquid glass on it and it looks great! I would say use any long lasting sealant and your good to go. Yes I went right over all the graphics.
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Junior Member
Re: Fiberglass Camper detail
Hey guys one more question, can I use my LC orange pad for the oxidation remover (#49), clean it thoroughly and then use it for the high gloss polish (#45)? The reason I ask is because the only pads I have as of now are lake country's yellow, orange, and blue pads.
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Super Member
Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek
Also, anytime you're removing oxidation of paint or gel-coats you're going to want to clean the face of your buffing pads OFTEN.
That's because you're going to have a lot of dead, oxidized gel-coat building up on the face of the pad plus the spent product, that is used-up compound or polish.
Same would apply if you're using a one-step cleaner/wax, you will have dead, oxidized gel-coat and spent cleaner/wax building up on the face of your pad.
I made a video this week showing how to clean your pad on the fly, it's one of the most requested videos I've ever been asked to make. So I made one.
Here's the link,
Video: How to clean your pad on the fly
If this technique helps you then maybe post a comment to that effect in the above thread.
When I first tryed cleaning the pad on the fly I got the towel wrapped Inside my GG6, one hour later of cussing and cutting the towel out(couldn't even get the wrench in to remove the Plate) I finally removed it. When I buffed out my 30ft fiberlglass trailer with my GG6 I had good luck with a microfiber bunched up scrubing the pad. I cleaning it like this every section.
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David 2000 Ford F-350 DRW CCLB BLACK/GOLD
Wish list:
Everything Mike has in his garage for detailing
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