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  1. #11
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    Re: Back to using a rotary.

    Quote Originally Posted by FUNX725 View Post
    I once was a rotary user...gradually started getting away from them in the mid-1980's.
    (Gave my last one away a couple years ago.)

    Going forward from there...DA's seemed a safer bet for me to use on OEM BC/CC.
    But the extra effort/time involved in "paint corrections", let alone factoring in their so unwonted vibrations,
    has caused their usage by me nowadays to become near prohibitive.

    That's why the RUPES line-up of polishers sound so tempting.
    Either those..or a lightweight Flex...if I'm to continue taking care of our vehicles as I once did.



    Bob
    Bob, Have you considered a Cyclo polisher? They're supposed to have very minimal, if any, vibration.

  2. #12
    Super Member FUNX650's Avatar
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    Re: Back to using a rotary.

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Mitchell View Post
    Bob, Have you considered a Cyclo polisher? They're supposed to have very minimal, if any, vibration.
    Yes I have...Thanks for asking.
    Used one of a friend of mine once and liked it a whole lot.
    I'll have to keep that polisher in mind also.

    Thanks for the reminder!

    Bob
    "Be wary of the man who urges an action in which he himself incurs no risk."
    ~Joaquin de Setanti

  3. #13
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    Re: Back to using a rotary.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pureshine View Post
    If you can get a hologram free finish then your good to go
    Holograms come out fairly easy with a da my man!

  4. #14
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    Re: Back to using a rotary.

    Also I love using a rotary too bc that's all I have at work!

  5. #15
    In time out
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    Re: Back to using a rotary.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kengo123 View Post
    Holograms come out fairly easy with a da my man!
    ...... but remember that they were *put* there by a rotary.

    Which goes back to; if you know how to, and feel comfortable, and more importantly are SKILLED with a rotary then use it for your first step. Afterwards you'll need your trusty DA to clean up the leftovers and get to the 'finish' line.

    This is what "professional detailers" did to a brand new paint job.

    The hood actually wasn't painted, they just screwed it up because they could I guess. (It was a replacement crash part that was swirled up.)




    The entire right side though was all brand new. Even before it was washed, from 2 weeks of driving in the rain you could see buffer trails & holograms from 50 feet!
    (This is after it was washed, before it was Nanoskinned & clayed.)


    After a 2-step correction:

  6. #16
    Super Member 2shiny's Avatar
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    Re: Back to using a rotary.

    I still want to learn to use the rotary, but keep wondering if I just shouldn't buy a Rupes...

  7. #17
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    Re: Back to using a rotary.

    Quote Originally Posted by davidc View Post
    I have not used the Rupes but I kind of doubt anything beats a rotary and wool pad on fiberglass. Am I mistaken ?.

    Dave
    Rupes with the same wool may beat it, but there are "some" instances where I find a rotary is faster to cut. Mostly deep scratches.

  8. #18
    Super Member HateSwirls's Avatar
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    Re: Back to using a rotary.

    If you use a white pad along with m205 you can get a perfect finish.
    What causes holograms is using an aggressive compound and pad.
    When doing just one step using the 205 and a white pad it comes out flawless.
    Don't get me wrong, it's hard not using my GG6, it does a nice job

  9. #19
    Super Member scrubs147's Avatar
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    Re: Back to using a rotary.

    Quote Originally Posted by davidc View Post
    I have not used the Rupes but I kind of doubt anything beats a rotary and wool pad on fiberglass. Am I mistaken ?.

    Dave
    We are Central Florida's "First Class" Detailing Service.

  10. #20
    Super Member HateSwirls's Avatar
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    Re: Back to using a rotary.

    wool pad and a rotary is almost a must when working with gel coats IMO anyway.

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