DIY Rotary User

[Tresca]

I've read that rotary polishers are extremely difficult to use and cannot final finish well, except in the hands of a highly skilled and experienced user. I know rotary polishers are more difficult to master, but knowing what to expect up front, knowing the proper techniques and being aware of the potential problems, is it reasonable for an intelligent DIY person to use a rotary polisher?

I guess what I'm asking does using a rotary polisher typically require someone who uses it daily and develops there skills over many uses and significant time, as would be the case for some one running a detail or body shop.

[ken tuep]

As you've mentioned the rotary "might" have its flaws in the wrong hands. They aren't difficult to use, once you've done it a few times.

I'd suggest a scrap yard panel, or cheap vehicle you may not be too worried about messing up, should that happen.

Be sure to tape off sharp edges and use common sense when using it. That's basically just keeping your speed low until you are comfortable, and also aware of how quickly it can damage paint.

I use mine regularly, even though I have a Griots, and flex. The rotarys speed, and cutting ability is unmatched for heavy defects.

I'd say go for it, the only way to really know, is to try.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

[ken tuep]

Knowing a little of what to expect also goes a long way towards mastering it. Watch Mike Phillips videos, and other forum members who have posted, and you will be on the right track.

I'd also recommended using the least aggressive pads and products you can first. A foam pad and m205 can really clean a paint job up quickly, and finish out great on most vehicle paint.

Be sure to work methodically, smaller sections, and keep the pad clean and moist with product.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

[Audios S6]

Keeping the pad clean and the machine moving are keys to success with a rotary.

A rotary with an aggressive pad and edges is where much of the danger lies. Rotary doesn't exclusively mean poor finishing, a rotary is ideal for jewelling paint. Using a finishing pad and something like menzerna sf4500 would be a safer way to practice with the roatry and get the feel before slapping on a wool pad loaded with PG1000 or FG400.

[inDetail]

As Ken said grab some practice panels. I would also suggest getting a fender or a quarter panel so you can practice on curved panels as well. I have several. I'm not anti rotary so different dual actions serve my purposes just fine at this point. I do have one that I use rarely for difficult spots a DA will not remove quickly. The majority of my work do not require full restorations where speed of cutting will be needed.

[Lowejackson]

I moved from a PC to a rotary as I seem to be very sensitive to the vibrations and my hands would quickly become numb. The above suggestions about using a practice panel is one I would fully support.

It took me a little while to get the basics right with the rotary, my suggestions are to start off with a finishing pad and a very mild polish just to get used to the methods of moving the machine around the panel. The rotary is sensitive to the angle of the pad and whilst I thought it would often be nice and flat the rotary would say otherwise. My solution was to get my wife to watch and let me know when the machine was not at 90 degrees (on a flat panel).

[Kaban]

This is the best rotary guide that I know of on the internet. Helped me alot. Save that PDF to your computer and study it before you touch the buffer.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ypolishing.pdf

Alot of people will tell you that all you need to do is practice on some panels and with time you will get the hang of it. That is really not the most effective way to learn to use a rotary.

Read this entire guide, understand that the rotary spins clockwise and be familiar with the terms "cutting edge" and "refining edge" as it relates to the portion of the pad that does the cutting and the portion that does the "feathering" as that will become a crucial part in helping you not only achieve better results in compounding and finishing, but also in the ease of control over the machine.

I also recommend you get yourself either the 3M 09553 or 3M 09627 backing plates if you plan on using pads from 5-6.5" and a foam backed mini backing plate such as the AG 2-7/8" backing plate or the Gloss-It 3" foamed backing plate as these are additional tools that will greatly help you in keeping the pad flat and working around complex surfaces.

Any questions, feel free to PM me.

[Old Tiger]

Keeping the pad clean and the machine moving are keys to success with a rotary.

A rotary with an aggressive pad and edges is where much of the danger lies. Rotary doesn't exclusively mean poor finishing, a rotary is ideal for jewelling paint. Using a finishing pad and something like menzerna sf4500 would be a safer way to practice with the roatry and get the feel before slapping on a wool pad loaded with PG1000 or FG400.

This is how I started with my rotaries. I now have used wool on occasion. IMO nothing finishes better than a jewelling rotary!