First Rotary + 849X = Mind Blown!

[RoadRageDetail]

Mike, I could read your posts all day but I'd get fired lol

Thanks for confirming I'm not insane by wanting to follow up my rotary work with a DA polisher. However now you've got me on the fence as to whether or not IPA wipedown is a necessary procedure.

Do you think any marring or light scratches caused by IPA would be removed by my final finishing DA pass (black pad & P085rd for example), if I were to use the IPA after the rotary work to ensure defect removal? If so, couldn't I then finish my corrections and move on to final finishing and then LSP's?

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, I could read your posts all day but I'd get fired lol

Don't do that...

Thanks for confirming I'm not insane by wanting to follow up my rotary work with a DA polisher. However now you've got me on the fence as to whether or not IPA wipedown is a necessary procedure.

You can always just strip and inspect your test spot or wash the car using a detergent wash which I think is less aggressive than an IPA wipe down assuming it's done very carefully.

Do you think any marring or light scratches caused by IPA would be removed by my final finishing DA pass (black pad & P085rd for example), if I were to use the IPA after the rotary work to ensure defect removal?

Yes.

If so, couldn't I then finish my corrections and move on to final finishing and then LSP's?

Yes.

The biggest problem with ensuring you're not leaving any holograms from the rotary buffer step is "seeing" them. Like I stated in my article here, besides black and dark colors and without bright overhead light like the sun at noon, it can be hard to see rotary buffer inflicted swirls on lighter colors and especially with out great light and by first stripping the finish.

That's why I don't buy it when every time someone says all they use is a rotary buffer and then state then never leave any swirls. How do they know and where's the documented proof.

[truckbutt]

Great thread. Great post Mike. The 849x is a beast. I used one for the first time two weeks ago. I'll save the Flex PE 14 for "surgical buffing"

[Mike Phillips]

Great thread. Great post Mike. The 849x is a beast. I used one for the first time two weeks ago.

I'll save the Flex PE 14 for "surgical buffing"

Yeah buddy....


Both are great tools and if it's in a person's budget, both are great to have access to so you can use the right tool for the job...

[TimmyG]

Were you able to use the backing plate that came with the machine with your foam pads? Are your section passes and technique much different from that of proper DA technique? I see you mentioned 1000opm with the M105, did you finish down at a slower speed with the M205?



Very interested in getting into the rotary game!

[Mike Phillips]

Very interested in getting into the rotary game!

I'd highly recommend it. It brings a whole new level of correction ability to your skill set.

[truckbutt]

With the introduction of the Flex PE 14 and the Dewalt 849X there's been a lot of interest expressed about using a rotary buffer. Maybe we should start a rotary club .

[AutowerxDetailing]

Were you able to use the backing plate that came with the machine with your foam pads? Are your section passes and technique much different from that of proper DA technique? I see you mentioned 1000opm with the M105, did you finish down at a slower speed with the M205?

Very interested in getting into the rotary game!

The backing plate that comes with the 849X was too large for any of the pads I have... I couldn't contain myself though and popped some 6.5" LC waffle pro pads on it which are almost exactly the same size as the standard backing plate. THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED because if you tilt the machine too far the backing plate will come in contact with the paint. That's why I just did the roof to test it out until my smaller backing plates came in from AG a few days later. I believe the 7.5" or the 8.5" CCS curved pads will fit the stock backing plate.

I used basically the same technique that I use with my PCXP. Slow section passes, alternating directions with each pass. While waiting for the tool to be shipped I probably watched about 6 hours of videos (of course including most of Mike Phillip's stuff) and read countless articles on how to use, and sometimes how NOT to use, a rotary polisher. The main thing that I noticed was that the tool really wants to go in the direction that it wants to go. I found that instead of fighting it, you have to get a feel for it and use that forced motion to your advantage. This way you do not get so fatigued while working. It's hard to explain until you actually get one in your hands and use it.

I used about the same speed with m105/m205 while working the polish. I did crank it up to about 1200rpm for a few section passes with m105 and the paint still was not too hot to touch. Meguiar's recommends a maximum of 1500-2000rpm for m105 so for my first time with a rotary I wanted to stay well under those thresholds... I did throttle down to about 800rpm for the last 1 or 2 passes with m205.

Get a rotary... everybody's doing it... you know you want to!

[RoadRageDetail]

Meguiar's recommends a maximum of 1500-2000rpm for m105 so for my first time with a rotary I wanted to stay well under those thresholds... I did throttle down to about 800rpm for the last 1 or 2 passes with m205.

Sheesh 2K rpm is crazy IMO, pumps out some real heat and friction at that speed. I'll rarely go past 1500, normally sticking around 1200-1400.

Get a rotary... everybody's doing it... you know you want to!

Nothing like peer pressure <-- Needs a rotary one too

And thanks for the info, Mike!!!!!!

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I'm curious about the 849X. The PE 14 is a bit overrated in terms of power, IMO.