Dewalt DWP849X love it; hate it

[jwgreen6]

I have a DeWalt DWP849X rotary polisher with Edge 2000 convoluted, double-sided pads. The problem I'm running into is the splatter and sling from using the 849X. I haven't used it much so I'm still learning how to use it. It just seems that the splatter and sling causes more clean-up work than what it's worth. I think I'd rather spend a little more time working with my Cyclo than dealing with the sling caused by the DeWalt (or any rotary for that matter). I suppose I could mask off everything but that'd take a long time. What do you think? Am I doing something wrong? Thanks.

[erock]

Sounds like you may be using too much product. Try spreading the product over the working area before you start the machine, or at a very low speed first. This should eliminate the splatter. If not you may be using too much product.

[kronos]

Have you tried this technique? http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ry-buffer.html

[jwgreen6]

Have you tried this technique? http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ry-buffer.html

Yeah, I tried that a couple of times and it worked, but I still ended up with product sling. I wonder if wool-type pads sling product? I have the Edge 2000 series and haven't tried them yet.

I guess I'll master rotary polishers the same way anyone gets to Carnegie Hall -- practice, practice, practice.

[kronos]

I guess I'll master rotary polishers the same way anyone gets to Carnegie Hall -- practice, practice, practice.

That's a great attitude. It definitely takes practice, but I wonder if the pads you're using are also a contributing factor. I use 5.5" low-profile hydrotechs, ccs and flat pads. I still occasionally sling product, but it's much less likely to happen than before.

[tuscarora dave]

I guess I'll master rotary polishers the same way anyone gets to Carnegie Hall -- practice, practice, practice.

Good attitude you have there!! That's about right too.

Practicing the less is more theory can be tough to do sometimes and sometimes sling is just a part of rotary compounding/polishing. If I see that I have applied too much product to my rotary pad, I first spread the product around the work area at a low speed then walk over to my trash can and place the pad below the top edge of the inside of the can and at full speed run it for a second or two to spin the excess product out of the pad before going back to work.

Gonna get wasted regardless, might as well be right in the trash can instead of all over the wiper blades and windshield right?

[Mike Phillips]

Check this out...

Video: Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panelsTips and techniques for using rotary buffers on vertical panels as well as the Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher plus surgical buffing using small pads for thin panels.

Also shown is how to use a Spur to clean a wool pad plus how to use both the System 2000 Pad Cleaner for cleaning wool pads on a rotary buffer and the Universal Grit Guard Pad Washer for cleaning any buffing pad.

Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels

With a dry pad, start out with about this much product when using the 10 @ 10 Technique. After your pad breaks in then adjust how much product you use in relationship to the size of the area you're going to buff.

As a general rule, you'll use more compound for neglected surfaces and less polish for after the heavy cutting is finished.
















Also, if you don't have a Spur, get one. You can use a screwdriver or some other caveman technique but a real steel spur made for cleaning wool pads works so much better and doesn't tear up the wool pad as much.





If you don't have a pad cleaning brush for foam pads you can use a toothbrush but these pad conditioning brushes actually do work as good as they look like they work.

[jwgreen6]

That's awesome advice right there and the only thing I'd add is take the amount of product you're currently using and cut it in half. Yup. Trust me. Try it and you'll do better work with way less mess. Many people use wayyy too much product. Kudos to you for having the balls to try the rotary. Many don't.

Using less product. A concept I did not consider.

I was using enough product to circle the pad twice, (once around the perimeter; once around the center portion of the pad) thinking a dry pad won't work as effectively as a well-primed pad.

Good attitude you have there!! That's about right too.

Practicing the less is more theory can be tough to do sometimes and sometimes sling is just a part of rotary compounding/polishing. If I see that I have applied too much product to my rotary pad, I first spread the product around the work area at a low speed then walk over to my trash can and place the pad below the top edge of the inside of the can and at full speed run it for a second or two to spin the excess product out of the pad before going back to work.

Gonna get wasted regardless, might as well be right in the trash can instead of all over the wiper blades and windshield right?

Thanks Dave. My technique consisted of applying product to the pad, "wipe" the surface with the pad over the intended area, then apply power. Sometimes I still ended up with splatter.

One bonus is I discovered ONR (1 oz : 2 gal dilution) cleans up splatter very easily.

I start to resort to a similar tactic of spinning up the pad away from the car but without placing the pad over a trash can. I'll keep that in mind next time.

Check this out...

Tips and techniques for using rotary buffers on vertical panels as well as the Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher plus surgical buffing using small pads for thin panels.

Also shown is how to use a Spur to clean a wool pad plus how to use both the System 2000 Pad Cleaner for cleaning wool pads on a rotary buffer and the Universal Grit Guard Pad Washer for cleaning any buffing pad.

I haven't used wool pads yet but I was thinking about getting a spur cleaning tool anyway.

With a dry pad, start out with about this much product when using the 10 @ 10 Technique. After your pad breaks in then adjust how much product you use in relationship to the size of the area you're going to buff.

I saw on other videos featuring a DA, the pad is primed with product before starting. Do you start rotary pads dry? I think that's where I'm going wrong. Back to the video vault for more review....

As a general rule, you'll use more compound for neglected surfaces and less polish for after the heavy cutting is finished.

Also, if you don't have a Spur, get one. You can use a screwdriver or some other caveman technique but a real steel spur made for cleaning wool pads works so much better and doesn't tear up the wool pad as much.



If you don't have a pad cleaning brush for foam pads you can use a toothbrush but these pad conditioning brushes actually do work as good as they look like they work.

I have a brush for cleaning foam pads that looks like an oversized toothbrush, which works well for me. I use Grit Guard PRS for cleaning the pads, too.

Thanks to all for your insight. I appreciate your expertise and counsel.

[BillyJack]

Good attitude you have there!! That's about right too.

Practicing the less is more theory can be tough to do sometimes and sometimes sling is just a part of rotary compounding/polishing. If I see that I have applied too much product to my rotary pad, I first spread the product around the work area at a low speed then walk over to my trash can and place the pad below the top edge of the inside of the can and at full speed run it for a second or two to spin the excess product out of the pad before going back to work.
Gonna get wasted regardless, might as well be right in the trash can instead of all over the wiper blades and windshield right?

Thanks Dave, I like that tip!
I've been using a rotary, albeit intermittently, for probably longer than many of the members here have been alive and never found a 100% effective way to eliminate splatter. Like others, I always seem to err in the direction of too much product. Next time I buff, I'm gonna keep an empty 5 gal wash bucket by my side and give it a try.

Bill

[Dr Oldz]

A good tip is to feather the trigger untill the product is spread out all across the work area then bring the machine up to speed. Also a little pressure between the pad and the paint helps prevent this....I often see people new to rotary polishing use no pressure because of fear of burning the paint when infact it just tends to fling product more. Some product fling is also unavoidable at times.

Also as you have said practice, practice, practice.

I like the fact that you have in the thread title "love it" Sounds like you are doing well with it and just need some fine tuning! Good luck!!!