Newbie to rotary

**jwgreen6** · 11-01-2011, 08:52 PM

Originally Posted by toycar18

I would go with the Flex 3401.

It is a forced rotation DA polisher.

Kind of like a hybrid of a rotary and a DA polisher.

I tried the Flex 3401 at Detail King training in May. I didn't like the fact that my arms became numb quickly due to the vibration. I like the Flex's form factor and features, but I can use my Cyclo for far longer without the numbness in my arms.

**Kristopher1129** · 11-01-2011, 10:23 PM

I agree and disagree with some things said. You did say you've used a rotary many times. What scares me...is that you said you used it in a body shop. Body shop buffs are well known for shoddy work.

That being said...that's just an assumption made in most cases. Really, that has nothing to do with you, or your skill level.

I personally think a rotary is no big deal. Of course...like some others mentioned the DA is a safer route. I use the DA and rotary every single day. They both have great uses.

If I had to choose just one type of polisher...it would hands down be a rotary. Of course there's a learning curve with a rotary. But, it's not THAT big of a deal.

I wouldn't advise someone who is just starting out with a detailing business to buy a rotary and start putting it on customer vehicles. But, for personal use...I say go right ahead. Learn, have fun with it...then buy a DA as well. You'll find ways to use both, and enjoy each one.

**richy** · 11-01-2011, 10:58 PM

If you can afford both, do it. The rotary has several advantages. It will knock down the toughest of challenges with wool and a strong compound. Better than anything currently on the market with a DA. But, the DA is quickly catching it as new products unfold. I also believe that you can jewel the paint to a better finish using a rotary too. The rotary is quicker at correcting too. But, there are lots of negatives to it that negate the positives. The key is training. You said you used one before in a body shop. I would suggest you take training from Mike Phillips or someone who can ensure you will not damage your finish or burn through your edges. I've been doing this a long time and can run a rotary in my sleep pretty much. It took a lot of time and mistakes to get to this point. The DA is making it easier for people to attain a great, corrected finish, even if it does take a bit longer. The Surbuff pads and the mf pads are very promising indeed.

**tuscarora dave** · 11-02-2011, 12:13 AM

Originally Posted by rider9195

Robert has a very good point. If you have used rotaries in the past I would recommend getting the Flex 3401 DA polisher. You can achieve very good correction with this and lay down sealants and waxes.

Good suggestion. I have a 3401 and use it from time to time on non correction "just shine it up type jobs" but it will do good correction fairly quick.

Originally Posted by jwgreen6

The only way you can become proficient with a rotary buffer is the same way a piano player gets to Carnage Hall: Practice! Practice! Practice!

NOBODY, including Mike Phillips, woke up one day proficient in handling a rotary buffer. He along with the rest had to learn the old fashioned way: Get one and use it. Once you master the rotary, you'll probably use a DA less and less.

One benefit of attending a detailing class like at Autogeek, Detail King or Kleen Car (and others) is you can find out if it's the right machine for YOU without having to drop the big bucks for the unit up front. That's how I know I made the right choice for ME.

Originally Posted by opie_7afe

if you have already used a rotary and feel comfortable using it then by all means get one, now as far as holograms they are mainly caused by too much speed,too much pressure, not using a finishing polish, using wrong type of pad and not following up with a fine pad/polish combo. if your using wool without following up with say a orange lc/same polish you used on wool then use say a black lc pad with a finishing polish you shouldn't have holograms. however, some paints are so soft that you could use a micro abrasive finishing polish and still have slight micro-marring/buffer trails, when that happens my best advice would be try a finishing pad with a pure polish containing no abrasives. just depends on the person, i could have gotten a da a week ago but i chose new pads,backing plate and chemicals instead as in this area most people dont know what paint correction is. and most "detailers" use just wool and a glaze...however im the type who picks up things really fast. only issue i am having is the new pads i got on my car the rotary seems to try to follow the pad rotation due to the curves in the panels of my car....it just depends on the person, some use a da and rarely use a rotary some use a rotary and rarely use a da....

Good post,

Originally Posted by jwgreen6

OK. I stand corrected. I was speaking on the premise that some experienced rotary users have stated they prefer rotary buffers over DA's for all polishing.

If I was more experienced with my DWP849X, I'm sure I'd use it more often than my Cyclo. Well, maybe...maybe not.

I rarely ever use any of my DAs for correction work and 85% of the time I'll finish with the rotary also. My Cyclo has carpet brushes on it that never come off, my G110V2 I only use on mirror housings or real delicate bumper covers with soft paint. I finish polish with my 3401 only on dark colored paint systems that are real stubborn to rotary polish hologram free.

**Kaleb G.** · 11-02-2011, 12:42 AM

I absolutely love my Makita and when I do work, which hasn't been for a while and won't be for a while thanks to a broken hand and torn ACL, I use it much, much more than my PC.

But... I'm very glad I bought my PC first and still use it at least once on an job I do.

**WRAPT C5Z06** · 11-02-2011, 05:14 AM

Originally Posted by mark58

Welcome!
I think it's a big mistake. Unless you are very proficient at it you will end up with bunch ow swirls.

Agreed 100%.

You can obviously become proficient, but that takes a lot of patience and practice!! I've tried a few times to learn how to use a rotary, but I don't have the patience. I want great results NOW, so I always move back to a DA, in which I feel I'm proficient.

Sadly, I don't think I'll ever take the time to learn how to properly use a rotary.

**WRAPT C5Z06** · 11-02-2011, 05:20 AM

Originally Posted by tuscarora dave

Good suggestion. I have a 3401 and use it from time to time on non correction "just shine it up type jobs" but it will do good correction fairly quick.

Dave, you're contradicting yourself a bit. can you please explain?

**C. Charles Hahn** · 11-02-2011, 06:12 PM

Originally Posted by 07 z-oh-6

Dave, you're contradicting yourself a bit. can you please explain?

No he's not.... he's saying "I use it on non-correction jobs, but if I wanted to use it for correction I could since it does a fairly good/quick job."

**WRAPT C5Z06** · 11-02-2011, 06:16 PM

Originally Posted by Shiny Lil Detlr

No he's not.... he's saying "I use it on non-correction jobs, but if I wanted to use it for correction I could since it does a fairly good/quick job."

Mis-read for the lose. My bad.

**Rav777** · 11-02-2011, 06:42 PM

If you could buy both then that would be sweet. I have been getting better on a rotary but not to the point that I can finish off hologram free all the time. This is why I like having both tools since I can do the heavy correction with the rotary and then do the final polish with the DA.

If you really want a rotary just get one. Everyone has to learn somewhere. Tweak your skills on your vehicle and practice on junk panels. My friends dad rents a lot of cars when he comes home on a bi-weekly basis and this is where I got better at handling the machine. Brought their old beat up cars back to them with a flawless finish, and I don't think they minded.

And yes DA's are getting better at correcting even though they might take a bit longer, but I believe that being proficient on a rotary gives you an edge especially if you want to start a business.

Let us know what you end up getting!