Wooooh Megs #7

[BillyJack]

Letting it sit and soak for a while is paramount to maximum effect with parched single stage paints IMO. I've been using #7 since the 70's and never realized its true value until I read Mike P's SS paint resto article. Another thing I learned from the article that makes a difference is the applicator and technique. I now use a MF cloth folded to a 4" X 8" pad and apply it with some serious effort ("passion" as Mike calls it ). It's also much easier to remove than just spreading it with a foam pad. Here's a split shot of my El Camino roof after 4 laps with #7, including an overnight soak.
I'm definitely a believer.

Bill

[FUNX650]

12 hours is a bit too long in my experience. I find the oils are completely absorbed within about 3-5 hours, any longer and the excess tends to dry and result in difficult removal as you stated.

A couple of comments on the drying issue

Excerpted from a Mike Phillips Meg's #7 article:

....#7 is a non-drying oil.

One of the many things it can be used for is to make paint look wet, thus the name Show Car Glaze.

The reason it can do this is because it is a non-drying oil.

It's hard to get the "Wet Look" with something they dries"...


A couple of comments on the hard to remove issue (again from the above referenced Mike Phillips article)

"So the mistake most people make when using the #7 is this.

1. They apply it to thick - this makes it extremely hard to remove
2. They try to remove it like a wax.

Two tips.

First Tip - Apply #7 with a thin coat... Use a soft foam applicator pad.

Second Tip - Removing #7 requires a special technique, not the same kind of technique you remove a wax with.

Most people remove their wax like this. Start in one area, begin wiping until all of the wax is removed in that area and then move on to virgin territory.

This will not work for #7. The "Act" of removing #7, tends to "Re-liquefy" the product, basically creating the smearing around effect that you experience when you apply it.

Instead, "Break" or "Disrupt" the "Continuous" layer of film-build and then move on to a virgin area and "Break this film-build up.

You see, #7 doesn't actually dry, but it will "Skin", somewhat like homemade pudding.

This "Skin" is easier to break up and remove then the more liquid film is.

By breaking up the continuous film-build and then moving on, you are exposing a fresh layer of the film to the air where it will skin. The next time you come around, it will be easier to break up and remove.

So the idea is to apply a thin coat to the entire car.

Then, Go around the car two to three times, removing a little bit at a time.

A big soft, high quality, 100% cotton, terry cloth towel works best for the first two passes, and then switch over to a Microfiber polishing cloth for the last pass. Microfiber polishing cloths have an affinity for both water and oil based liquids and will remove oily residues much better with less fiber inflicted scratches.

Anyway, that's what my experience has taught me after applying and removing gallons of #7 over the years, to every kind of car with every known type of paint".


If Mike Phillips doesn't know the intricacies of Meg's #7, then no one does, IMO.

That's why I tend to follow his lead whenever I use Meg's #7

But, as usual, YMMV.



Bob

[Ted S.]

Interesting find Bob, thanks!

I will try that next time, after letting it sit for some time (overnight).

[BMW]

I used to have a 68 in high school as well. 307 Powerglide. Man that glide could take some abuse.

Hmm...'68 Novas a gateway drug to BMW usage?

[Scarelane]

Been using the Meg's Show Car Glaze for many years. One of my favorites for sure.

[Danube]

#7 followed by #26 is one of my favorite combos ever.

[spike]

I'm interested in this project as well. I will be helping to bring the paint of an '82 Benz back to life, and I need to learn all I can about this.

So after you use Megs #7, and M80 speed glaze, what kind of LSP will work on top of this combo? Just wondering about bonding issues and such. I'm looking for the most durable wax/sealant I can use after restoring the finish.

What are the thought processes in selecting an LSP for a car that is prone to oxidation? I would like the finish to stay nice for as long as possible before it starts to re-oxidize again...

[Mike Phillips]

Excerpted from a Mike Phillips Meg's #7 article:

....#7 is a non-drying oil.

It's hard to believe that article is still around after all these years. If you read the original it's completely filled with spelling and grammar mistakes. Usenet didn't have a built in spell-checker and integrating software like I.E. Spell didn't exist, heck the only browser around at that time was Mosaic Beta which went on to become Netscape.

I don't remember if MS Word was even around back then, it might have been but I don't remember.

I typed the article up on the fly in rec.autos on the Usenet Newsgroups back in 1993 or 1994, long before most people had ever heard of the World Wide Web let alone had a computer and Internet access...

I actually re-wrote that article to replace the original and fixed all the mistakes but never posted it, I'll look around and see if I can find it on my old computer.

The information in the article is good however and it's been floating around in the Internet for almost 20 years now...



Here's a more recent article on this topic...

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

The Secret of Number Seven
There is a way to restore single stage paints that is non-abrasive and as gentle as you can get using a product that’s been around since early paints were formulated. That product is called Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #7 Show Car Glaze.

#7 Sealer Reseal Glaze = Show Car Glaze
Here’s a photo of a few bottles of #7 from my car wax collection. I have some older bottles from before WWII, but this picture shows the transition from when the name changed from Sealer and Reseal Glaze to Show Car Glaze.


(Click here for a larger picture)

[FUNX650]

It's hard to believe that article is still around after all these years........

......The information in the article is good however and it's been floating around in the Internet for almost 20 years now...

Proof positive that:
Some things not only get better with age...
But are timeless as well !!!

Another Kudo is more than deserved for: Mr. Phillips.
Thank you again, my good sir!



Bob

[LegacyGT]

I typed the article up on the fly in rec.autos on the Usenet Newsgroups back in 1993 or 1994, long before most people had ever heard of the World Wide Web let alone had a computer and Internet access...

Oh man Usenet, what a blast down memory lane.

Bonus geek points for being on Usenet back in the day