My thoughts on the new Blackfire Coating

**silverfox** · 03-30-2015, 12:39 PM

The spray prep products don't pass the surgically clean test for me. I want to see a white polishing pad turn dark so I know I'm pulling stuff from the paint and leaving it as clean as possible. Sorry but a spray on wipe off product is a clever marketing shortcut in my opinion. Yes it saves time, but....

**HateSwirls** · 03-30-2015, 06:02 PM

Originally Posted by silverfox

The spray prep products don't pass the surgically clean test for me. I want to see a white polishing pad turn dark so I know I'm pulling stuff from the paint and leaving it as clean as possible. Sorry but a spray on wipe off product is a clever marketing shortcut in my opinion. Yes it saves time, but....

I first use a polish pad as I should but you need something to remove the oils from the polish.
You may be "Cleaning" the paint but leaving a lot of oils that a coating, or even a sealant would have less chance bonding.

**Odisious** · 03-30-2015, 07:45 PM

Prior to my coating I used duragloss 652 "Precleaner no.2" it cleaned and glossed amazingly, and it is a prep product prior to an LSP, but it still left behind "something"...when I followed up with DP coating prep I got the squeak, and totally different appearance, and feel.

IMO, one should go through their normal correction process prior to prepping and coating their vehicle anyway, because a pre cleaner is only going to work for paint in good condition, and the reason I say this is because if you pre clean swirled out paint, you're going to leave cleaner in the grooves of the swirls and then your coating may not adhere (maybe). If your paint is already in fantastic condition and you sealed it with a pretty durable sealant then I would still choose a non abrasive polish to remove the sealant and then go over with a coating prep product or IPA wipe-down. YEAH, YEAH it's more work, but that's why you're here!!! j/k j/k...but seriously, if someone is choosing a coating, I would do something to ensure the surface is ready, and to me that's polish, then coating prep polish in that order of course.

If you've ever detailed a car you know that the first step makes the 2nd step faster, and that makes the next step faster and on and on it goes. I would suggest going into the DA realm prior to going into coatings, because the DA makes all of this prep work cake and a faster process. After using a DA with the 652 precleaner of 4 section passes, then I was able to apply the coating prep polish in just two section passes with no problem, and I was going very fast. Again, if your paint is in good condition, then why not do a single section pass with some kind of non abrasive, and then hit with a section pass of the prep polish? After using the 652 I was able to do the DP coating prep in half an hour on a minivan...and that's quite a bit of painted surfaces.

**wgilles** · 03-31-2015, 02:52 PM

I just ordered some of this coating, looking forward to trying it after I remove the DISO on my Mazda 6. I have the surface prep solution left over from the Duragloss coating so I will be using that after the Paintwork cleansing lotion.

Thanks for the review.

**HateSwirls** · 03-31-2015, 08:04 PM

Originally Posted by wgilles

I just ordered some of this coating, looking forward to trying it after I remove the DISO on my Mazda 6. I have the surface prep solution left over from the Duragloss coating so I will be using that after the Paintwork cleansing lotion.

Thanks for the review.

I know you'll love it.
I'll be calling AG this week for more of the coating as more customers are asking for it.
You won't be disappointed man.

**rlmccarty2000** · 03-31-2015, 08:19 PM

Approximately are you going to sell the coating system to your customers for? Will it be based on how bad of condition their paint is in or flat rate?

**Ebg18t** · 03-31-2015, 09:17 PM

Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000

Approximately are you going to sell the coating system to your customers for? Will it be based on how bad of condition their paint is in or flat rate?

Most places separate out correction process from the coating steps. Around me a coating is $250-800 depending on the coating plus any correction time ($250+).

**wgilles** · 04-01-2015, 07:37 AM

Originally Posted by HateSwirls

I know you'll love it.
I'll be calling AG this week for more of the coating as more customers are asking for it.
You won't be disappointed man.

Excellent...I'm looking forward to it. The paint on the 6 is beautiful, nice metallic flake. It is listed as "Jet Black" but I feel it has a bit of gray to it as well. Really looking forward to seeing it after I correct and coat it.

**zerix** · 04-03-2015, 10:03 AM

Any videos yet of beading/sheeting action?

**HateSwirls** · 04-03-2015, 05:27 PM

Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000

Approximately are you going to sell the coating system to your customers for? Will it be based on how bad of condition their paint is in or flat rate?

The paint correction isn't always the same price, just depends on the condition.
There would be another charge to coat the vehicle , the larger the car the higher the price for the product and labor.